PeterW

22mm is fine for shorter runs - just make sure the pump is at its highest speed. In terms of commissioning, one or two of the suppliers need a laptop plugging into the control panels to tune the compensation curves. To be honest, the standard curves are not that bad so it may be a moot point. The other issue is warranty usually, and some say unless it’s installed by a registered installer you only get one year instead of 3/5/7 etc

It’s fine - as long as the manifold is above the loops the AAV works to remove the air

Doesn’t meet Part M of building regs as on the ground floor you have to have an accessible WC and you have 3 steps.

Ok so they can’t issue that under the rules on planning determination as they are obliged to ask for your approval in writing to any extension. If you have not agreed this then you have recourse under the 26 week rule for non-determination.

Ping me your address on a PM and I’ll chuck a piece in the post

Cut a slot in the block, insulate the pipe and preferably use conduit too, expanding foam round the lot and carry on.

@zoothorn that looks spot on ..! Well done ..! Post a photo of the last bits and we will see if we can help

Can the TF company modify it as it’s a porch and make it bigger ..???

10% on handling client provided materials is pretty standard. It pays for the moving it, unloading it, reading the manual to install it etc.

Your what ..??? You mean the pin …? Got a length of plastic conduit ..?? Thin stuff just big enough to fit over the pin ..?? Dig a hole in the right place, put plastic conduit over the pin and place in the ground then concrete it in as a sleeve. Then when it’s set, CGT the plastic off level with the concrete. Job done.

You would need to find the makers info on it - usually on the outside ..! What is driving you to go Passiv on such a small building …? It doesn’t seem to be an ideal starting point as they are inherently unstable and move when the weather changes with humidity.

Chuck the post mix in, put the water in. go make a brew, couple of chocolate digestives go back, hang gate.

Roofers use 1.5m as it’s quicker - if you’re doing it on your own then 1m may be easier to handle.

Depends on the membrane used. If it is a full breather membrane then none required. If it is not a breather membrane then you need 25mm clear plus vents top and bottom. Fairly standard detail. I would use less PIR and more frametherm or similar. Air infiltration will be your issue, not insulation. You need a very good airtightness barrier here, and oak frames aren’t good at that as they move.

Any chance you can post up your plans @cowsgomoo..? Just remove / redact the personal info. This will help people give you ideas on what is needed and potential pitfalls.

Way to stop this is fill the boiler with kiln dried sand - acts as a heat sink and also dries out any moisture

Roofers apprentice cleaned the van and dumped about £100 of lead in my skip and “hid” it under a load of membrane when he was asked to clear the van.. surprisingly it wasn’t there for long and I removed it !!!

gone up a little but give them a call. https://www.estimators-online.com/pricelist#.YUeKpCV4UWM They do a 24 hour turnaround.

Ok so has the architect give you a budgetary figure, or did you give them one..? Next off, use one of the online estimator services, pay the £120 and see what you get back. That’s what a lot of the contractors use so you’ll be playing the same game. Lastly … you need to get started. Even if it is just digging the hole for checking the foundation depth and getting Building Control to agree to it, you can issue a commencement notice. That locks in your planning for ever and you can then carry on at whatever pace you want.

Why ..? You spend £10k or so drilling a hole on someone’s land and then make them an offer ..? Will cost you about £100/m to drill, a pump is about £400 and then the treatment will be between £500-2000 depending on what you need in terms of filtration, UV and metals etc. none of which is unreasonable. Two other questions … slightly related ! How do you know the main is over 1km away and the neighbour is connected to that ..? How are you accessing the land etc as the Right of Way may also be useful for services.

Think BC Profiles stock it - give them a call. https://www.bcprofiles.co.uk/products/cromar-vent-3-pro-heavy-weight-breathable-membrane-1-5m-x-50m?variant=41015876419747

Cromar is just as good - and about 2/3rd price of the others.

@YeBullen start here with the BGS search http://mapapps2.bgs.ac.uk/geoindex/home.html?layer=BGSBoreholes&_ga=2.162032373.890267982.1632046656-1384336153.1632046656 Looking at a few in that area, water was hit around 55-60m so you’re probably going to have no issue. There is also a lot of surface water on the map so I doubt you wil have problems.

Welcome ! Ask away, there are no daft questions here …!

Right - cracking job so far so well done ..!! Next bit, you need to plan and measure. I would lay the short gate on the floor, and then lay the ironwork on top in place. This is the hinges etc so you can see what you have to play with. Once you have that, you can lay the plates / pins for the hinges and the post, measure overall to see where the post will land. Ideally you want an inch or so between the gates to let them swing but don’t worry too much. Then dig your hole… having the post right up at the back against a solid edge of a hole isn’t a bad thing - it will stop the post moving. Take your time, a string level may help you keep it all aligned.