PeterW

Yes - and they normally have a pump built in. The downside is that you’ll be looking at about 75p/hr or £18/day to run it …

Which one..? Link ..?

You may want to tell that to a number of LABC inspectors I’ve come across in the past 10 years who have argued the toss about what is correct vs what is on a BBA certificate. Can you explain what a completion certificate is then if it isn’t a sign off that the works have been constructed to the relevant Building Regulations ..?? As that’s the wording pretty much as is on most completion certificates in England and Wales.

That is why I said “may not” as different membranes require different air gaps. Some BCOs require counterbattens even when the MIs do not require it, but ultimately it is the BCO signing it off so what is on the BBA certificate becomes sometimes irrelevant.

Not unless you have used breather membrane and then BCO may not require a ventilated void at all, or reduce to 25mm.

Get another SEng - cannot see any reason why you need that and the wall I expect is not actually taking the weight of the roof - it will be the steels. If not, add in a steel portal along the back of the wall.

Sell them and buy proper treated battens. Round here they go for £3-4 each and they will collect.

Do it all in one operation - that ensures that the imperfections between the tray and the seal, and the seal and the waste are all accounted for when it tightens. If you do one first, you will potentially glue the seal off centre and then end up with the seal not parallel to the flanges and it will leak.

don’t do that please, do as you’re told and don’t question it.

CT1 - thin bead between the seal and the trap, same between seal and tray then do it up and leave 24 hours.

The new battery ones are good - if you go down the Makita LXT route then there is both a single and double battery version. Much better than a petrol one if you are an occasional user

Use clean 10-dust limestone and compact it down in 50-75mm layers with a decent heavy vibrating roller.

No no no ..! That is incorrect !!! A wall plate is only there to provide a suitable fixing point for the roof structure. Yes - get a hard hat, get anything valuable out of it and then get signs up saying dangerous building on it !! I would get your insurance company to look at this too - was this a new build and was the garage built under any sort of building regs .?

Ask Buildzone for a 12 month policy - You may find its cheaper. Also check with GSI Southern as they have specialist policies

Cheap yoga mat or camping mat cut to fit and stuck on with carpet glue

@Iceverge that’s how I found the filter I wanted !

just used a standard filter box from Blauberg and then adjusted the support grille to allow a standard cabin filter to fit across the corners - keeps all the fine stuff out of the main HeX filters.

Ideally need to use spreader plates - are these new joists or is this a retrofit..?

Did that with a load of clearance carbon pollen filters from a Ford Transit..! £2 each on eBay .. Some of these are counter productive as they can heat the air past the outgoing temperature and the heat exchanger can start to cool the incoming air rather than warm it.

Never push a raw copper pipe through a wall. 21.5mm overflow pipe is pennies a length and can easily be installed - then just seal round the inner pipe with Low Mod sealant. Works with anything up to 15mm pipe and stops you scoring the pipe.

Or buy a can of this …. Much better and more reliable. https://www.toolstation.com/action-can-ld-90-gas-leak-detector/p65456 @Coops if you’re bending coated copper pipe then use a 50mm pipe fitting as a former and do it slowly. Also be very wary cutting the coating off the pipe, use a sharp Stanley knife and only cut in a radial manner, never slit the coating along its length. Best way is to cut the coating off in short sections and twist it off. Also buy a proper adjustable pipe cutter and only use that to cut the copper pipe. … and never use flexi pipe and jubilee clips on gas pipe inside a building !! EVER !!

Addstone do them from stock but can you not use the bond on ones when you render as it’s easier ..?

Seeing loads installed round here with batteries now - seems to be the next “fad” as they don’t need an MCS certificate to flog it back to the grid as it’s all deemed “self use”.

I’d use a 125mm sleeve and pack it to allow a little bit of movement.

You can set a max temperature on the Mira units for bath and shower to stop any potential scalding