PeterW

Errr no it's not ..!! I do this as a day job and if someone presented me with a standard contract that has options for amendment (which this does around the latter pages) and they had crossed out part of the definition of key terms which that statement is, I would run a mile ..!! It would also potentially impinge on the unfair contract terms act as you are materially altering the definition of a contracting party to the advantage of the other...!! There is no way that for a domestic client it would be reasonable (man on the Clapham omnibus) for them to be expected to understand the terms in a 10 page appointment document that does not mention "domestic client" once but focuses entirely on "business" throughout. Suggest it's one for the APS lawyer to answer

Or via a vapour permeable insulation which is how full fill fibre gets round the issue. I'm using beads as @Declan52 stated as I have varying old and new cavities.

I didn't think that this form was valid for Domestic Clients as it refers to the business location or registered office when relating to client in the memorandum ..? Deleting a line in a definition at the start of a standard agreement where there are marked paras for deletion towards the end i.e. a document with agreed variations, would be rather unusual as it changes the terms of the document. I am referring to the sample available so I suggest if someone does want to validate it then they purchase a copy ... http://aps.legallio.com/Documents/Agreements/83feca3a_4931_4221_8777_3d93fa1d8074.pdf

Top to top, bottom to bottom and then tee off for DHW wherever

Doesn't matter - just cap the coils off ..!

Ok so here's a random thought... Take the secondary loop off the current tank and circulate it to a separate direct cylinder at the other end of the house. You're basically doubling the size of the current tank and it would technically mean that the second tank is always at the same temperature as the first and it could be done with two lengths of 22mm and a pump with timer set to say 15min/Hr. No separate header and the plumbing would be reasonably simple.

Simple W Plan with a 3 way diverter valve and have a "primary" tank and a "secondary" tank. When the primary is satisfied then the secondary gets heat. I mustn't be the only one thinking an inline electric heater may be simpler ..?? One of the 12kw Siebel ones would certainly help and it's something that would stay in place once you get round to sorting the UVC...

So I take it TW aren't letting you connect into that ..!! Is your build within 3m of the sewer then ..? You may want to consider a passive slab as the loading would be less although the SE would need to confirm the 45 degree angle with something like that.

Out of interest how big is the sewer and how close are you building to it ..??

I'd look seriously at a small TS in that situation as by the time you've put in new headers etc you will have more than made up the cost of a TS. Also means it can go anywhere ..!!!

They also do a 250 litre which I think is 1800 x 410 but Trevor would know - you get the welsh pie discount if you quote @Nickfromwales ...

Ta

Telford do a slimline 200 litre one if its a standard direct you are after..? https://www.cylinders2go.co.uk/shop/stainless-steel-unvented-cylinders/telford-tempest-200-litre-slimline-direct-unvented-cylinder/

I'm using a 9Kw unit just because its what I purchased cheap ! We're not at passive spec either, but air tightness is key and we also have the MVHR.. If you time your DHW / Buffer / UFH correctly then nothing is fighting for heat anyway..!

Thats a good price - what's the uValue on the units..? Local company too..?

Quick one - how have you managed to get CIL exemption without planning..? My understanding is you need the planning permission first and that creates the liability..? Cheers Peter

Just a bit of advice - make up the pump set and then loose fit it to the manifold and then tighten up the manifold bracket screws.... Wunda sometimes send them out loose, and sometimes tightened up to make you think that they are set to the "correct" pump spacings... They aren't..! Ask me how I know...

That was my thought hence the query as to whether it is single or multiple zones. Issue with multiples are the zones are wired in parallel and any one zone firing for heat starts the boiler - the smart UFH wiring centres tend to have a relay in them that fires the boiler in this instance. I can't see a scenario where heating and cooling are needed in different zones but I'm assuming that you would need a lock out of some description although it would beg the question as to which zone has priority however what you're talking about here is more of a passive cooling effect by moving the heat from one place to another which needs open zones everywhere. I would simplify the design and lose the zone stats and the loop valves and use a single house circuit that gives you simpler control.

+1 to what @Nickfromwales said I've got one of these and we set out about 15m on a sunny day with an ordintary Bosch rotary level. Draper Expert 22127 Prolaser Laser Target https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00881OKHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7gA.yb9WCXRBW

Aahhh hang on ... you can't use the floor for cooling if you are using room stats and zoning. It's also fairly pointless trying to move the heat about from one room slab with solar gain to another if you want to control each room with a stat. Is this all ground floor ..? How large ..?

Fairly simple that one - use a 3 channel timer, DHW is Ch1, Thermostat (Htg) on Ch2 and then the circ pump on Ch3 You need to leave all the UFH circuits as open vented and then just wire the boiler "as normal" and use a spare connection to the circ pump (9 is normally spare in a wiring centre on Y Plan) and then connect the Ch3 on to 9, L to the pump on 9 and wire back the neutrals. Create a separate programme for the circ pump (6am - 10pm etc) that is longer than the heating cycle and Roberts your mothers brother ...

Bit odd - sounds like the pot is missing ..! How old is the house ..? quickest way so you keep water out and still allow ventilation is to use a standard concrete council paver cut to the same size and set onto a brick at each corner. Still allows the stove to be used if you wanted. you can buy precast tops tops ready for standard pots - mostly in Ireland for some reason ..!

Yep I've got an old reel somewhere and some lovely silver solder too...

Odd I saw that too when I was looking I see what was in their sealant ..!

Thanks both - getting the solder and the gas torch out I think is the answer ..!