PeterW

That NVR I linked earlier has a HDMI output - just add a simple cable link to the TV as most have 3 or 4 HDMI inputs which mean you can either PinP the feed or just change source to view.

I've bought a couple of cheap PoE to USB Micro B 5v adapters as I run a full Cisco PoE 24 port switch as my core switch. I can enable PoE on any port and allows me multiple VLANs. I may look at something like a basic Radius server on a Pi somewhere in the network as I'm using ex Corporate Cisco AP units which don't support anything above WPA.

I've considered using something like this for hanging off the end of a PoE cable as it gives lots of opportunity - a combined NVR with storage all powered off a single PoE to 5v 2A adapter springs to mind. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1694165.pdf The 15w of PoE available gives plenty of opportunity for micro distributed compute and potentially storage at an end point - these would also work if you built it into a Pi managed NAS and USB 3 is a bonus.

As @le-cerveau says you also need an NVR (Network Video Recorder) to control the cameras but they are pretty cheap. This one has HDMI so just plug it into a spare HDMI port on the tv and then the cameras will always be on the same source. NVR I use this Cat5 cable these days as it's nice and easily seen - you can get SWA Cat5/6 but it's eye watering in price ..!! Cat5 Cable

Cat6 needs to be solid copper for PoE and not CCA. Depending on your gate company of choice, it will probably be 5 or 8 wires for the intercom unit assuming you want to be able to speak to the person at the other end - this is standard telephone or CAT5 for anything up to 100m normally. Most gate controllers have a 24v output somewhere on them that allows you to power additional items such as the intercom - the house end is usually the "slave" unit so needs nothing more than the Cat5/6 from the gate. PoE cameras can't directly interface to a normal TV even with HDMI input. You need a recorder / controller that collates the camera images and then connect that to the TV. I know some of the new Smart TVs have an internet browser capability which would allow you to see the camera feed from the controller. So back to your original query - you will need an SWA power cable of suitable sizing (ask the sparky...) and then I would run 3 CAT6 cables to the gate to give you redundancy. Suggest these are in a duct with a drawstring just in case you want to add another in the future.

Insulating this sort of thing is where Aerogel comes in to its own. It's not cheap but for a very small area that needs thin insulation it's ideal.

I was advised to glue one edge at the top of a set of stairs as the rest could expand away from that fixed point. In reality we are talking 1mm at best I would think on a 3-4m span

They are designed to go into an existing frame - nice vid on the B&Q website

The combined hatch and ladder ones are good but they need a big gap in the ceiling joists which can cause some issues.

You don't want to be click fitting bamboo - it is better fully bonded. There are plenty of click fit engineered wood ones though at about 15mm thick that don't sound hollow like laminate does.

£20 a metre buys decent bamboo and then budget £3/m for glue and whatever your fitting costs are on top. It's virtually armour plated and looks great - ideal for a rental

At £25/m you can get some very good engineered wood flooring that is streets ahead of laminate. At £40/m I would want it to be self laying .....

I'm using Egger P5 with the joints done with CT1 between the tray and the floor and I'm going to tank the @r$e out of it with this.... Tanking Kit

Two things to check : - Split ASHPs are very expensive compared to mono block. Consider two units and run them at different temperatures or drop one completely. £2k buys a lot of E7 KWH - Can your ASHP get to the required temperature for the Sunamp to get a useful amount of energy in to it. At a CoP of 1.5 which is about what you get with a 7c/56c ASHP then it's only getting 50% more efficiency than a direct E7 connection. What is the space heating plan..?

I agree - it's the first time I had seen it and I queried it with the fitter.

I've got an Aqata shower enclosure and that advises to seal with a thin bead on the inside but to leave a 150mm gap at the bottom- basically for the water to get out. Biggest issue is where two impermeable surfaces such as a bath and a screen meet, there is nothing mechanical for the sealant to bond to so it's pretty much a question of how good is your sealant. CT1 all the way now..!

Doh sorry just seen that ..!! Try this one - use Z clips to support the OSB or ply between the joists Marmox Showerlay

I'll start ... Marmox ShowerStone

Ooohh shiny..!!!!

Congratulations ..!!

Hmmm.... been hanging my nose over this (just because I like orange boxes...) Paslode But that's £37 beer money saved ..!

First unit we had they hadn't drilled out the motor connection box and there was no hole in the tank for the wiring to exit ! Sparky did it but he said it wasn't a job he would like if it wasn't full of clean water... Every 6 months the chain drives have to have a new grease-o-matic cartridge fitted - not a job I would be signing up for ! We were sold the "benefits" by a water and sewage consultant - never again !

We run an 18,000 litre Klargester on a commercial site and paid for "Gold" service ... turns out we should never have been sold it so when it went wrong on a Thursday evening, they decided to not honour the 4 hour response terms and effectively cancel the contract overnight ..! Took a week to get a new motor.. Happily took £900 a year for 3 years though ..! Now looked after by a local company who are superb.

I agree - it's just you have to prove it's not from the "water undertaker" as you say. If you have a private borehole and a mains supply I think it's then when it gets difficult - same as with a rainwater tank.

Short answer is no and no, you only need an abstraction licence for larger than the limit you have stated however....... A hosepipe ban is a ban on using a hosepipe for watering - even if you have your own supply / borehole you have to prove that you are not using the public main. Bizarre I know ..!