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Found 6 results

  1. When the floor cassettes were installed in my timber frame, some of the sound insulation got trapped between the joists and osb floor and created an uneven floor. I need to level this floor out before I lay my engineered oak floor. This uneven area is only in one corner so should make it relatively easy to flatten. I also need to overlay the OSB with 9mm plywood to overcome tiling heights in the bathroom and thus propose to take the plywood as far as I can and then use a SLC to level the area which is very uneven. I have some Mapei Primer G but not sure this can be used to prime OSB and I tried to ring Mapei today but they are not answering calls due to Covid. Can I use SBR or does anybody know a good primer for OSB? Once I have primed I will also put some screws into the OSB to give some extra grip for the leveling compound.TIA
  2. I have 20mm polystyrene sheet to insulate the interior of the roof (the polystyrene is appropriate to this use, relevant BS EN standards - the 'outbuilding' is my new posh shed not a dwelling of any kind ? The roof (sloping not flat) is constructed of 20mm OSB on wood joists (photo) and covered with heavy duty bituminous felt externally. I'm thinking of applying the polystyrene direct to the underside of the OSB using a spray adhesive. Is it ok to do this?...Im wondering if there could be any issues with the OSB being 'sealed' both sides? Thanks Andy https://photos.app.goo.gl/hR3GJWvXyNuwqsVJ6
  3. I have a double detached timberframe garage. It is clad externally with breather membrane, battens and larch cladding, roofed with concrete tiles. Inside it is the bare timber frame racked with OSB. It is dry and well ventilated, but depending on the time of year and ambient conditions, have relatively high levels of humidity. Whilst a useable and practical space, it really could do with brightening up. I am therefore thinking of lining the walls. The ceiling / trusses would probably remain open as this space is used for storage. The space doesn't need to be insulated, although if covering the ceiling may be worth doing. The question is what should I use to line the walls. Plasterboard would no doubt be the cheapest, but given its an unheated space, and RH levels at certain times of the year, may not be a good choice (albeit I would be delighted if the collective view was that it would be okay). I then move up to MDF or PLY, but this seriously pushes the cost up. Any thoughts or suggestions?
  4. Looking for some input to this subject. I plan to lay OSB panels over the suspended garage beams. they were made for our project and installed professionally. the area was always intended to be a large room rather than storage ( yes I know about the potential use and regulations etc). So the engineering loafibg calculation was 190kg/m2 ( this is an overengineereed floor with laminate main beams etc) and reinforced brickwork in the vertical and horizontal lines. So my questions please: 1. What is the difference between OSB 4 and OSB 3? I'm planning at least 22mm but probably thicker- I need to check my joist spacing but I'm not a home. 2. I see that there should be a 3mm gap between panels but many makes have this built in on the t&g edges so the gaps are for the ends. 3. What space should be left at the perimeter where it meets the brickwork? This room will be insulated below and the walls/ceilings. So what considerations are needed at the edges? Acoustic/ damproof plasterboard will be suspended below and filled with loose fill wood fibre insulation - no rockwool/ kingspan products on the house due to potential future health issues. The OSB boards will be glued and then screwed down as per makers instructions Any thoughts anybody? With consideration to the warm room sitting over a cool garage. airflow and damp being on my mind
  5. Just wondered what people have done in terms of lining plant room walls and ceiling? Board and skim seems entirely pointless and of no use for fixing. So, I was going to go with 22mm OSB on the walls and ceiling and (only if I have time) a couple of coats of white emulsion? What have others done?
  6. Our en-suite and main bathroom will both be wet rooms. I have identified the wet room formers for the 2 shower areas, they are 22mm thick, but for reasons of budget (lack of) I am not buying them yet. I do however want to floor most of the rooms. So what 22mm thick floor boarding for a wet room, suspended on Posijoists at 600mm centres? Is it as simple as P5 chipboard, or something more exotic?
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