PeterW

No

Is this one from Alto..?? The multiple pumps are a waste, and it works much better when you use pairs of diverter valves to fully isolate the tank. The difference on valves is the mid-position vs diverter which is normally used with S/Y plan. A mid position holds by use of stalling a motor, a diverter just pushes across and holds in one position. I also prefer a decent buffer rather than LLH - you can use as a secondary dump load using an immersion in the buffer.

Yes they can add a modified site plan via the portal with a note that it corrects an issue. How long ago was the submission ..?

EasyRoof and GSE are the suppliers for in roof trays. Can be fitted by a competent roofer. Usual suspects (Midsummer, Wagner Renewables etc) all stock the bits and will do your design for you. Cross posted with @Conor

Set point for what ..?? Can we get an exact model number for this ASHP, and a photo of the UFH set up as putting 45°C water into UFH is nuts - there should be multiple flow temperatures depending on whether you’re into UFH or DHW. How big is the Joules tank too..?

An air RH meter won’t read the screed moisture content. You need a probe meter for that… you’re basically measuring the moisture content of the air just above the floor. If you’re at 7 weeks just crack on and lay the floor. Don’t forget to make them do full bed and seal the backs if its limestone.

Most likely it’s got a damaged heat exchanger coil on the back - minor corrosion on the fins and they leak slowly from that. Sadly it’s junk unless you can find a refrigeration engineer who is interested as it’s a full strip and rebuild and the coils are about £600 + VAT or so from memory and then you’ve got 4-5 hours labour plus the re-gas and anything else that it needs.

Lets start by fixing a few issues. Are you on a single tariff or Economy 7..?? Does the heat pump controller switch the immersion on and off ..? Have you got a buffer tank on the UFH..? What temperature is the UFH flow set to ..? Lets start with some basics ….

it is more than enough …! You don’t need to be using 8x3 for anything on this..!!!

vial is only parallel to the bottom face. That’s the one you should always use.

you would be surprised what gets through ..! Had a smart meter install and the meter installer transposed Day and Night reads when he closed off the old meter and Bulb took it as correct despite one dropping by 2,000 units and the other increasing by the same !!!

Not overly sure about the extension lead and the very nasty plug top converter running something that is a heating appliance !! Can you access that easily to at least remove the euro plug and hard wire an extension to it ..? Would be much better and safer than a euro into a converter into an extension into a socket … @ProDave you agree ..?

Plus the biggest washers you can find as plastic will just tear out over bolt heads if you don’t ..!

Use the correct 63mm corrugated ducting, min 450mm deep and make the bend up to the surface long and slow. assume you’re planning a meter somewhere else then as you can’t install an internal location for the DNO service head..? 110mm water pipe with a long slow bend, min 750mm deep. Can use 63mm blue twin wall but it’s a pig getting 25mm MDPE through it. Single stack or multiple stacks ..? Best running across the base full width for this and putting a rodding point at the far end - drop into the run using Y branch with a rest bend.

Do wonder where conservation officers live on this scale …

@JohnMo I totally agree !!! And some of the training just becomes training in bad practice ..!!

Damp wall then Thistle Hardwall followed by skim coat (Either Multi or Pure) is the spec I have seen used on these blocks. Also seen a belt and braces of fibre mesh embedded around wall openings for reinforcement in the base layer.

@Mulberry View This one ..? have you not downloaded the full guide from here..?

That’s standard in the U.K. and depends on the coatings. Planitherm, SolaGard, they are all trademark standard coatings used on glass, plain float glass is now pretty much obsolete in modern windows. St Gobain used to have an excellent calculator where you could build up your 2G/3G units and coatings and get the heat loss and transmissivity values back. Not sure if you don’t now have to register for it.

So it’s interesting what is called “specialist training” as I’ve been on a couple and tbh they spend less time on the important stuff and more time on meeting their MIs. When you start asking questions such as “how do I change the flow curves for a low energy house” there are blank looks from the trainers who are essentially following a training manual. In terms of “passing” their training then very rarely there is an exam at the end - on one we plumbed in a “dumb” ASHP unit that basically has a loop of pipe inside and then pressure tested it, hooked up 6 wires and that was it. “Programming” was follow the installer guide that has the correct settings in bold on the pages …. Heat Geek is also just a referral website owned by the same 2 directors who run Vito Energy in Surrey - their “installers training” is actually shadowing on their own installations. If you want a good ASHP engineer then go and find your local refrigeration engineers - they have been doing this stuff for years, and I’d trust someone with an F-Gas cert more than I would someone with a certificate from a single manufacturer.

Should be in the box with it ..?? There should be nylon top hats (usually eccentric for adjustment) that go through the big holes.

Check the price on 75mm too - it can be had some times for much less than the equivalent 100/50 setup.

You can’t fit an unvented cylinder without a G3 certificate or sign off. A smaller tank will be false economy as you’re using the Mixergy at 65-70°C with gas but ASHP will be 45°C so you’ll need much more capacity to get the same usable amount of hot water.

It’s 3 times the cost and half as good efficiency wise so why would you ..? Nitrile takes minutes to install.

Isover and Rockwool are semi rigid usually used for process pipework / steam etc, and used in commercial premises where fire resilience is required. Using Nitrile can be a lot easier as it’s softer and compresses better than poly, and can be slightly more resilient.