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About Field_of_Dreams

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  1. @DevilDamo Full planning permission originally.
  2. FYI...Case officer has come back and said "minor material (Section 73) application" would be needed. Will investigate further.
  3. @Mr Punter Not getting any NHBC on this build. I was looking at their docs just to see about standards and hoping to further my knowledge.
  4. just checked and they got removed 12 months ago.
  5. @PeterW Ground is medium clay. Still waiting on a GI report. Trees got cut between 6-18 months ago...I did it at various stages.
  6. I have been reading the NHBC standards, in particular the bit about foundations and trees and it mentions about the calculations needed when there are trees nearby but also trees that are going to get removed. I can't actually tell what they mean by "trees to be removed" and was hoping someone may be able to offer more insight. I have several stumps that will be dug out and whilst that means some roots may still exist in the ground, the bulk of them will be pulled along with the stump. Does this count as a "tree removed" or should it be dealt with as though it never existed? I realise that leaving a stump or grinding one still means all the roots are still there and as such gets factored in but the guide does not clearly state, from what I can see, about trees/stumps that get removed completely. The trees that got removed were within 2M of the foundation and were fully mature sycamores (medium thirst). I am hoping to get an insulated raft. The more I look at foundations, the more questions I have 🙂
  7. Are you looking to have the table made of one single piece that is 3.6M long? If so, how wide? As mentioned by someone else, you might be better off with a router sled as that is the only thing that will do very wide planks. Take a look here and you will see he has several videos about big tables and also a couple or varieties of router sleds. He also has other videos that will help in regards drying, epoxy etc If this is going to be a one off build then you might be better off getting someone to collect the log and do it for you as the cost of the kit involved will soon mount up.
  8. The Triton is just a thicknesser and not a planer. Normally you would plane two sides to get flat edges and then thickness the other two sides. Your alaskan mill will not give a smooth enough finish to jump straight to a thicknesser. Having said that, it all depends on the finish you want. If you are going for a "rustic look" then it may work for you. As mentioned before, you need to seal the ends as soon as you cut it. You can also use paraffin and wax to seal it. I recently cut a big sycamore and left it a bit too long before I sealed it and the cracks started to appear very quickly. I won't know if I got away with it until I come to slab it...but I guess you are slabbing it straight away so that will also help.
  9. Good to know. Thanks @Dreadnaught
  10. Thanks for taking the time to explain @Temp, @DevilDamo, @Carrerahill. Now I know my options, things are much clearer to me. I will have a chat with the case officer and see what can be done.
  11. Hi All, I am thinking about a change to one of the buildings I have been granted planning permission for and just wanted to know the best way forward in terms of the planners. The build has not been started yet. See attached drawing of current design. I was thinking about taking the first floor (side elevation top left) south wall (all of it including the windows) back 2 meters. This would then give me an undercover outdoor area. Everything else, roof, walls, ground floor, overall size etc would remain as it is now on the plans and has approval for. There would also be a need for a slight change to the roof windows in that they would either be reduced in number or moved slightly. Does this usually mean a change to the application or can it be dealt with in a more simple manor? I am hoping that it can be simple as I am not changing the external size or footprint but maybe I am placing too much hope in our planning system 🙂 Thanks
  12. Thanks @Dreadnaught It was points, 1/3/4/5/6 that are applicable to my plot. I am looking at my groundworks at present and it seems to be heading towards piles but I don't have a GI report yet. I seem to change my mind every other day at present! Some say that it is not needed and just put the money towards the piles but I have also started to look at vibro stone columns and from what I understand, they need a GI report. I am hoping to get some time to talk to one or two suppliers today so hopefully that will help. I am also waiting on several quotes to come back in to hopefully make things a bit clearer too. I also have an archeological watch on my plot so need to be very efficient on site to reduce those costs. As always...more questions than answers at this stage 🙂
  13. @Dreadnaught Thanks for the blog post. I am very interested to hear what answers you got back from your tree guy as I have many similar questions running round in my head regarding my own upcoming build. Hopefully it will will help clear the fog a little 🙂 Thanks.
  14. Thanks. Good to know I don't need anything fancy.
  15. Hi all, Just looking at some building regs and it mentions the need for an oil tank that is within a certain distance from a building or boundary needs to have a "Fire Wall" between the tank and the boundary/building. It needs to have at least 30 minutes resistance. So... is this a special block or do they all tend to last that long or longer? I am not fussed what it looks like as I will eventually grow some plants up it 🙂 Any insight appreciated. Thanks