PeterW

Or make a material start and lock in the planning for perpetuity.

So your 3P meter should net meter but that will depend on whether you are looking at maximising self use and not pushing back to the grid - it also limits your options on expanding your solar as you can put a lot more on a 3P install than you can on 1P without DNO approval My concern would be that you’ll end up in the situation on a sunny day that you want to charge the car, the battery is full but you’re not properly set up at metering - at that point you would be much better having full 3P at the house and a 3P inverter (they are ~£100 more than single) and do a full 3P install from the outset. Has the electrician not suggested this ..??

It’s irrelevant - it’s all the consumer side of the meter so doesn’t matter what phase it’s on..?

Use a cheap humidity sensor to operate the fan .?? Something like this ..?? XH-W3005 Humidity Sensor 12V/24V/220V Digital Hygrometer Switch Controller 0~99% RH(12V) https://amzn.eu/d/2NAtzzq

I’d be looking at that differently - what’s the heating system too..? I’d run a single 25 to the house CU, one to the garage (assuming not attached) and leave the 3rd for the car charger. You’ve got more flexibility and you can then terminate each with single fused isolators. Unless you’ve got a big meter housing then you won’t get a TP&N fused isolator in a normal box

Who has sized that ..?? Has the DNO Installed a 3x80 head or is it a 3x100 head ..? You would be pulling 55kW with 3x100 which is industrial power levels not house levels. And how are you dealing with earthing ..? Separate conductor back to the DNO earth point ..?

6x2 is fine !!! Spans are nothing ..!

Usually the PIRs have a 4 or 5 core depending on how they’ve been wired - they need to switch something. Have you got a pair to check ..?

Ask your energy supplier for a new one, or depending on the supplier you may be able to track the half hourly usage via the app or on the web. Inverter looks like a Min TL-X but can’t be sure. They sell a USB dongle that plugs in the -X series for about £40 which then lets you interrogate the unit via WiFi. Other than that… you’re guessing or having to access the Oled display on the unit.

So that’s not permitted development, and demolishing bits won’t help your case with planning ! Where in the U.K. are you - as that can sometimes make a difference to rules.

40mm filler using timber is fine but be careful that you don’t drop too low. When working out your finished floor you need to remember any tiles / carpets etc and add this on - you could be less than 40mm

Bellcast isn’t straight either … but that’s pretty poor - needs to come off and start again.

its usually because the spurs stop them climbing the ladder ….

Why is it exposed ..??!! Planned properly that should be insulated in the ceiling void - did the plumber forget ..?? As per everyone else - cheap poly and stuff the boxing out with fibre but I would consider taking ceiling panels down and getting the plumber to do it properly (and insulated) first.

Not talking about the UFH - sorry ! The DHW needs to be higher - you’ll lose 10-15°C min on the full burn cycles so at 62°C you’ll get into the 47°C sweet spot especially with a 500 litre UVC. I would run that with two long blocks though and not be constantly pulsing into it. UFH and gas needs a buffer - anywhere to fit one ..?

That’s not condensing. Up the DHW flow temp to 62°C and hold it for longer.

With stoves you get what you pay for. And you can easily pay £1000 for install and flue.

So a lot of the ASHP installers tried to tell customers they didn’t need them - problem was that they didn’t understand how they worked or what they did and created problems. With large floor areas and multiple loops it can sometimes be a challenge to get the flow rates needed, and once loops start closing down you can get flow restrictions on the ASHP that can trigger faults on the ASHP flow rate. It is why you need a decent design and understanding from the outset - and then it needs to be followed !

Protects the flow temperature and also allows better control. And the ASHP company should have fitted one - they just like to tell everyone that they aren’t needed with ASHP.. bit like being told you don’t need a circulation pump as the ASHP can do it… both a myth !!

Lots of space and easy to modify that to have a blending valve and even space for a buffer tank by the looks of it.

Brilliant !! No blending valve..!! You’re dumping water from the ASHP straight into the UFH and it will be short cycling and also not at optimal temperatures. Can you set UFH and DHW temps separately on the ASHP..?

Pretty sure they rebadge these as Miele

Thats fine - you said the pump hence my response. That’s flow temp

So that will only contaminate the surface - is it a shell lined borehole ..? There are plenty of filter systems for nitrates using ion exchange and they are regenerated using salt solution. Certainly a lot cheaper than mains !

I would open up but leave a full brick either side so opening would be more 900mm and then a 1200 would be fine.