PeterW

35mm buys you another 9m but at that stage I would be in Polypropylene anyway for cost - it’s the holes through studs you’ll have issues with at that size

£13 for 100..?? https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/product/timco-m8-x-50mm-plastic-insulation-fixings-pif50-100/11284

It will make a huge difference - I would start there, and also just use low expansion foam with a few EWI fixings through it for stability. 100mm is regs but is overkill as your loft will never truly be at outside temperatures

So I take it they didn’t talk to each other ..?? And this is the reason you need an overarching M&E design that brings it all together as it’s the interfaces that cause the problems. If you paid your architect to do the design process end to end then this is his issue, but if he was only there as the crayon jockey they it’s one to learn from and move on So your maximum D2 length is 18m with no bends, so if you assume you’ve got 2, then it’s 16m of 28mm copper at £8/m, 6 or so fittings at £20 and a couple of hours at most. That is £2-300 max, and don’t forget your £800 pump will also need pipework.

nope talking about a thermal store ie hot water but needs to be 72°C plus and usually fired by gas or oil boiler so a non starter for you

it is why you do an M&E design as part of a build - so you don’t end up with the issue of pipes trying to go up hill, or through steels, or wastes below drain level

It is all in the G3 regs - you need to use a pipe suitable for D2 discharge and it has to be set to the correct falls etc. Personally with a long distance I would use 28mm copper - not cheap but works very well and is fit and forget

Yes - they are about £800 each ….

black foil or black spray/powder coat ..??

Nope.. has to be capable of taking boiling water and moving water at full mains flow which is why you tend to use gravity to clear it. Yep doesn’t meet G3. Have you bought the UVC..? And what is the heat source..? A thermal store may be the get out of jail card if you can get it hot enough

That room doesn’t need 2 stats - it needs one and you can’t really heat one end more than the other. In terms of the Tado controller, you should have the stat control the valve and then the valve control the pump and the boiler. That means the boiler fires independently if UFH or Rads request heat.

get the router to it ..? Or just buy handrail as you can get it tanalised..? https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/richard-burbidge-large-traditional-handrail-2400-x-68-x-68mm-BURLD265

yep absolutely !! Make sure you don’t do the pipes up tight either, and also wire it in with an extension lead …

Like all macerators they are the work of the devil and only to be used when there is no other choice … and this is even worse as the unit has to come out to clear it - there is no top access

Is the UFH actually installed ..? If not - bin off the Heatmiser stuff and go with the Wunda self balancing actuators on a 4 port manifold and a single Tado thermostat in that area. Run it as one zone and put the stat in the corner of the L opposite where you have it now but away from any windows or doors. You will need zone valves in this lot too but can’t give you a wiring diagram without knowing the rest of the layout. also don’t forget bypass rads or bypass valves on the heating circuits so the boiler doesn’t overheat

You could use a wood roll and then use lead ..?

You can get condensate spring traps - hotun is one of them and it works really well

Buy yourself a pair of 15/22mm pipe slices and strip all the copper from the brass - it’s worth more as pure copper than brazings which is the mix. also, leave none of it on site - get some £1 buckets from Wickes or wherever and strip and cut it into the buckets then take them home - it grows legs !!!

max length on a Cat5 is as you say 100m/305 feet ..! Need more coffee ..!

Anything up to 100m/305ft is fine on Cat5 so you will have no issue with cable runs I use either ubiquiti or TP-Link Omada and probably err on the side of the TP-Link stuff these days as they have a very nice face plate that also creates a hotspot as part of the Omada mesh system so you get best of both worlds. A lot of people get hung up on network speeds and tbh you won’t notice it internally - your limiting factor will always be the router and it’s switching capability and the broadband speed.

I’ve got a 110mm hole saw somewhere that got “modified” with a slot cut into the top and then the edge bent down to cut through EPS as it basically acts like a food processor blade and chops the core out as it goes - it’s not pretty but works ..! Now if I can remember where it is …..

Did you keep the cap off the tube ..? Remove the old mixer tube and then cap the tube and you can keep it for a while

Which direction does the hallway go ..? As that isn’t a room it’s a circulation space and you have one door to exit. Fit a fire door on the kitchen and it also then becomes an enclosed space for fire regs. Not 100% convinced the BCO is correct here

Some interesting links with directors between this and Hullmatic (also liquidated in last 18 months) Hullmatic Statement

Ok that’s an EV charger - thought you meant battery charger - and a different beast to what they used to sell - also needs a car that will talk to it, and also some element of minimum charge as a lot of the EVs need about 1.5kW from memory to even start charging.