PeterW

only normally used for island installs and things such as boats etc as it is designed for lead acid stacks

250 has about 190 litres usable and depending on the time of year that will blend out to around 25 mins of shower time in total without recharge. That’s not that much hot water with teenagers and a low recovery heat source such as ASHP. Who designed the rest of it, and who did all the calculations for heat loss etc..?

want to tell the Nordic countries that have been doing it for 30 years that ..?? no more than a normal gas or oil system. The issue is that most aren’t designed to meet the building requirements, they are carbon copies of the last one the plumber / heating engineer installed and they don’t go through the basics and stuff is installed that is inappropriate for the house or it’s occupants. On an occasion recently I saw radiators removed for an ASHP retrofit where some of the existing rads were absolutely fine and perfectly sized to the lower delta for ASHP flow, and the installers argument was “they always install 50% larger”… so that’s £2k added to an install for something not required. sadly not - there are still the installers who are piping direct to UFH with no blender and no manifold pumps and mixers, buffer tanks are the exception unless properly specified

@TimToos what is the DHW set to..? As others have said, 200 litre tank is too small and you’ll also find the internal immersion is heating the tank if you’ve got the temperature higher than about 53°C so that’s causing your low CoP on DHW. Is there any buffer in the system or is this just UFH and rads direct onto the ASHP..?? Any schematic available ..??

Why not just use 20mm galvanised thick wall conduit and spray the ends with galv spray ..?

4 is £5 per screw - they do this to stop people buying one or two and they are a good supplier. If you email them what you want (in total) they will give you a price for the lot as you’ll also need coach bolts etc for uprights to frame etc edited to add its £46.18 for 8 inc VAT and £3.50 delivery to the darkest Highlands …

@ProDave look at Dowel Screws. They are usually galvanised steel and have a torx drive in one end and come in all sizes. You would end up with studs poking from the wall then and just use M10/12 nuts and washers on the ends.

Book an engineer install of your broadband - don’t go with self install… then they will realise very quickly !!

Look like standard rosemary tiles - depending on the roof itself it may be worth keeping 10 but they are available everywhere. New they are 50-60p, reclaimed I’ve seen them from 20p to £2 (yep ..!!) depending on age and condition. I would just use as drainage or flower bed edging or just chuck them

Why not rip the felt off, build a new low sloping (ie 10° Angle) roof and then insulate, board and GRP that as a new surface overall. It would hide the junction which is probably your biggest issue, and also then make the roof penetration easier.

Not unless you have a fibre splice machine and the ability to do that sort of complex connection - it’s not like punching down a CAT6 cable. Best option is install a duct to where you want it and pull through that when the time is right.

Bear in mind if this is a public footpath your contractor willl require a street works permit and apply for the closure which is around £500. On top of this they will have to have a permit from the sewage provider / water authority to connect, and you’ll need to pay an additional connection charge which is normally £3-600 plus you will require an inspection when the connection is completed. Depending on the size of the lateral / foul sewer and it’s flow, you may need to use a break and join rather than a saddle, this could require pump over when you need the connection installing so… that could be another £1-2000 depending on how long and how deep … I would first consider connecting to your own current foul drains connection in the current property before going down the route of what could be a £3-5000 connection cost to what appears to be the nearest point ..!

Yes - don’t remove them

Also worth looking at some of the 2 pack fillers from Ronseal and the like - a quick smear over any cut surface then sanding leaves it square and clean for paint and also stops water ingress

Cut them off flush with an old/sharp chisel then foam in

Frame fixing suggestion was mine as they are more tolerant to over sized holes and suspect brick/block types @zoothorn yes you can bed on the stixall stuff, frame fixings as @craig says 150mm up/down from corners and then carefully foam in the rest. If it isn’t in an exposed position then a decent bead of good quality silicone on the cill /frame joint will stop any water ingress too. Have you pushed the frame in from the inside up against the old render ..?

It’s fine - happens sometimes with that type of layout and it just creates warm spots.

Relays are common on this sort of board as they weld on can get it for £140 from Ransoms - you need the programmed one https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/search/11017616/

This would work - easy to install and just needs a power source, preferably not an extension lead.. https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/iqool-smart12hp/electriq-iqoolsmart12hp-air-conditioner

they are - but they are not all they are cracked up to be. You have no issue with the losses from a cylinder into the house which is what Sunamp is designed to prevent. A pair of sunamps won’t do your heating and hot water and they are way more expensive than a 300 litre unvented hot water tank.

A lot of the newer ASHP can get to 60°C at a CoP of 2, so that is twice as efficient as the Sunamp and the electric boiler - still not as good as the gas boiler though. Instead of the sunamps why not fit a 200 litre slimline tank and a solar diverter and then use that to feed the gas boiler for DHW..? No point in using direct grid power for it unless you can get it below the gas kWH price though.

That’s a monster - min heating is 8.83kW and you are going to need somewhere to dump the heat. I have installed a 9kW heat pump and it rarely issues full power, and the spec is not dissimilar to you for build up. I would install twin stats on the hot water tank and only let the ASHP heat it when you’re 2/3rds depleted as otherwise it will be short cycling. Is the buffer installed as a pass through (ie not separated from the UFH) as it will probably not be big enough to stop short cycling unless it can “see” the floor loops direct. Who designed the system overall..?

Ok so BCO should have picked this up when you submitted plans and not when you get to the end of the process !! What you’ll need to do is find a copy of the ISO standard and then someone who can do the calculation for you https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:44281:en ISO 15927-3:2009 shows the method for calculation based on local conditions and shielding etc - you’ll also need 10 years data from the Met Office for your most local location that can be used to provide the wind and rain statistics Assuming this was a full plans submission I would also be getting ready with a complaint to your building control department as they should have picked this up a long time ago …

Ok so basically re-instate the gates now, and use Google to provide the evidence. Unless there was a reason for removal I am not quite sure why it would be an issue, especially as this isn't a new build but an extension. Odd for highways to be consulted tbh

Not when you cover the ground with gravel …