PeterW

The new gun foam system instead of dot and dab is very good as it removes the air gap behind the boards too. A bead at the top also seals the boards on and stops draughts. It also gives a more solid feel as the boards are tight against the blockwork but does need clean walls with no snots.

90mm will be 90mm MDPE that runs at positive pressure - not unreasonable to get 2-2.5bar on those pumps that could blow 110mm joints apart. Surprised they say 90mm as most use 63mm. If you need advice, speak to MPC Services in Ripley who do all this sort of stuff. Has BCO signed off the size of the tank and the pump ..??

Sadly they are mutually exclusive unless you want to hack the receivers ..??

They don’t need it. The only thing that deteriorated the rubber seals is UV light and they are in the dark. There is a triple seal on the Geberit frame, the flush pipe and waste pipe can’t move as they are locked into the frame by a very clever clip system. Once it’s on the wall, it’s not moving so there is no flex to break any joints or move any pipes.

Gas or oil ..?

Any reason you want to float it rather than bond it down ..? How thick is the flooring ..?

Very cheap - get on with it ..! and yes, the rules apply so no hedgerow removal from March to August so get on with it now.

So you’re using about £200 in winter, that may even out in the summer so may not be far off. What is the spec of the ASHP and what is it programmed to do..?? If it’s 2-3 hours morning and evening then you may be disappointed. Get E7 and run the ASHP overnight to do the heating and then use ASHP and immersion timers to do the tank. Get as much on E7 as possible. What was the final EPC/SAP..??

Proper traditional craftsman there ...

I’ve fitted sensor lights in WCs before and they make sense. The microwave ones from Philips work very well, and they aren’t switched so no switches on the outside walls, or pull switches in the rooms.

Using a periphery building as a warm up - probably at 30-50% more cost than anticipated - is a sure fire way to find out the hard way that you’ve got less budget than you really need, and spending it on something that you don’t really need. Look at the big stuff first - roof coming off is a game changer - running out of money half way through that is not a good place to be. Garage doesn’t get finished for 18 months..? What’s the issue .... Think priorities and work top down.

It's made from tinfoil and toffee wrappers.. avoid ! Fitted one of these and it is very impressive in terms of thickness and finish.

Thats a pretty poor set of reasons why to use it , and some very dubious reasons as to why to go de-centralised. It also means you get no cross ventilation between rooms that do not have these units, and your air tightness goes through the floor as you punch 10 holes in the envelope.

Local merchant - not sure they do delivery though

XL are good but you can’t oil them from memory - the MIs are online. The second price is closer to what I pay.

Hang on @divorcingjack Whats the tank model - take a photo of the label on it please ..? That looks like a thermal store not an unvented cylinder - and that is the DHW coil set up. UVC does not have this.

Closer look and that definitely looks like a reducer - you would need to take the grey ring assembly off to replace with a Eurocone leaving the brass insert in the manifold. Other option if it is 15mm is to create a series of 15mm tails and use 15/16mm converters which are only £2.50 on eBay.

A miracle...? ? They are called eurocone adapters and get them here But at nearly £5 each, you may be best just binning the manifold and getting a new one.

It works as an air tightness layer but past that it is very suspect - it also has a few supporters and I’ve seen it used in conjunction with standard methods but I’d be hard pressed to recommend it.

Yep seems to - MVHR or ventilation are the real key to drying anywhere quickly.

Clear the hedge and put in a single wire fence. That isn’t commencing as it’s not part of the plans.

Is this brick and block or timber frame ....? if it’s brick and block, go with the 225mm joists as they course perfectly with blocks - you don’t need to cut splits to fit them. My supplier doesn’t spec the smaller joist unless absolutely necessary for this reason.

More likely that you will use a lower wattage mat. 100w/m is for tile warming, 200w/m is for heating. You could put both in as @JSHarris says - I think the kits I got from WarmStar on eBay are about £20/m

Unless you’ve damaged the ceiling, I wouldn’t do that as it will show up. Would be quicker to just redo the lot carefully.

I think what everyone is saying is don’t go to 2m past the house - go shallower and then drop to the sewer at a steeper gradient from the in-laws onwards. It also wasn’t clear that you wanted to put a lot more in the one trench - again, good reason for going shallower by the looks of it.