albert

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About albert

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  1. albert

    Rafter in wrong place!!

    the other opting is to trim down your flashing kits or use a thinner but better product where youve not got the desired allowance from key lite. I would find a solution other than to strip and refelt batten ideally.
  2. albert

    Rafter in wrong place!!

    Hi i would suggest that all the openings will be incorrect so adding a spacer as shown to all openings and making a cover strip / flashing to fit would be my first solution. You cant really cut the double or sistered rafter. cutting out hangers and removing square twists will leave a mess and most likely a hole in the membrane. You could use the laminated system but this is a large span with a decent load so it would need to be calculate and approved by your SE. They may be happy for you to shorten your trimmers by 50 mm and sister a rafter up butt jointed glued and bolted but would be better to use 2 x 25mm ply or graded timber substantially lapped and jointed. I would say a good roofer will sort it externally with just packing from inside if the veluxes can be spaced equally.
  3. albert

    Fascia and soffit options

    5mm ply soffit can sag if not supported properly, and yes if it is sagging it will look v bad. If using a ply go to 9 or 12mm for a better finish.
  4. albert

    Nailer

    The hitachi is OK.. it is cheap and looks and handles very well, but its not tough or up to contact work. We run mostly air and a few paslodes . I bought a hitachi as it was on offer and it was great i nearly bought another until things started breaking and it in went in to be fixed 3 times. Its only fired maybe 5000 nails which is nothing and we look after our kit. I always prefer air 1st and 2nd fix even on site with a hose to drag round but thats just me. A decent small compressor £250 plus vat and air nailer £200 plus vat. will fire 100'000 nails with a drop of oil and next to no maintenance. We still have cordless nailers but they all have issues with dirt and cold weather etc etc , out of gas .flat battery,fans . Air hoses do have health and safety issues as a down side. Id say the Hatachi is an ok tool if you use it for self build ,clean it, box it and let no one else use it. treated with kid gloves it may survive a few bumps but thats it. Mine was a 2016 so they may have made changes
  5. Thanks They are in a CIL area and submitted the forms with the application. I have all the details but this point form my consultant has confused me somewhat. "From my understanding of CIL is that an extension over 100 sq m attracts CIL. However a freehold owner who occupies the dwelling as their main residence can apply for an exemption (this must be done before any works start). I understand that the potential liability for CIL can be passed to any new owner (following completion of the correct forms). I assume that a new owner could apply for the exemption if the work hadn’t started. If the work starts before a sale, under an exemption applied for by the current owners, then from what I gather from the guidance notes on CIL (attached) this doesn’t result in a disqualifying event from exemption as long as the whole dwelling is sold as one. I would strongly suggest speaking to the Council regarding queries on CIL, as it is still a relatively new process, " I will do some further reading. Thanks again.
  6. OK great I did try and search but no whiz on computer. Thanks
  7. albert

    Glulam beams: specifying is one thing but.....

    Sorry slow response. its my own time saver! On the plumb cut of your rafter rater than site the rafter on top of the GL and cut all those plumb and seat cuts we ping a line on the side of the GL and nail on hangers at spacing's. We then cut all our rafters ( we gang cut all at same time in one pass) and on the plumb cut we run a cut through the plumb cut at 90 degs as a seat to the hanger usually 40-50 deep at the correct rafter depth. its quick and neat and also gets the GL in the roof cassette if head height is needed or the gl is a big one. if its very wide and the first batten needs to be higher then theres a bit more faffing. Get you SE to approve the detail first. for us its a job the unskilled lads can do nailing hangers leaving the carps to cut and fit quickly. We also designed a GL system that my BCO approved the other day that is a real obvious one and I had never thought of it before. but is so useful in loft conversions. We use graded structural ply to make a GL rafter either side of a new opening, usually velux. rather than stripping the roof we use 2.4m sections of 25mm graded ply to make the GL rafter under the roof covering . can be any size , and go over existing purlins. laminate with PU glue and gang nail to desired strength . roof fully trimmed out under the existing felt ready for roofer to turn up as and when. check with your SE first but Its not difficult to calc roof loads and get the beams signed off. I wish I'd thought of it years ago!!
  8. My parents are considering self building an extension to their house with a view to selling it and down sizing. We are trying to work through the CIL aspect. Even the planning consultant is unsure exactly how this system works. Its clear there is a formal process to be adhered to but I'm thinking we should involve a professional to make sure its right. The CIL due is significant and will determine if the project is viable or not. Thanks in advance.
  9. albert

    Corrugated alternative?

    Hi guys I'm also yet to confirm my roof product on a contemporary build. Looked at tata but expensive looked at the rubber standing seam, but going back to standard CLad Co box profile. I've used it on a load of jobs. check out photos on our web site if you interested. www.instahaus.com but I think looks pretty good for fraction of the cost. We are still working on the sound issue but will check out this marley product as an option as the cement fiber is definitely a better performer on this issue.
  10. albert

    How to avoid boxy fascia/soffit

    the surface mounted system works great IF your masonry and plastering are spot on if not it can look bad and need a lot of work to make it look right. you can set your fascia wherever you like really . you don't always need a soffit and an exposed rafter tail looks great in some instances but the carpentry needs to be spot on again. you don't need to cut the offsets down for your down pipe just pull the down pipe to one side or the other when using wall mounted fascia. Unless you you don't like that detail but I think it looks fine. hope that helps. You'll see a lot of exposed rafter tails on Oak frame buildings if you google that. Big soffit overhangs are useful to protect cladding and joinery in some cases
  11. albert

    Datum point

    I have had the same problem this week on a garage, planners want proposed FFL Ordnance datum. There is no OBM nearby. I am competent with a dumpy lever and able to use change points etc but don't want to pay for a topo survey if I can avoid it. I have replied with levels from existing house FFL.
  12. OK I've decided to go with Biopure very helpfull and good back up on phone if needed. Im going with a bio pure 3 and plan to install under building regs binding rules. I am unsure as this rule is unclear on distance the plant should be located from the ditch if it is discharging directly into it. 10m is stated if you use a soakaway so would assume 10m for tank would be OK. Many thanks
  13. albert

    Glulam beams: specifying is one thing but.....

    Lamisell are very good here in the SW We have a hanger system that is super quick if your cutting the roof to it and the engineer will allow you to use hangers from the ridge beam.
  14. Thanks for that readiescards Im still to make a final decision.
  15. Thank you very much.