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About albert

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  1. albert

    Modern Portal Frame Barn Conversion

    Hi I am also doing a steel portal frame class q now . I am an experienced timber framer and builder and the design has been a head ache to say the least. If I was to start again I would drop the whole wall structure behind the steels by 100mm subject to the planners approval. I paid my SE a LOT to design the steel work required and there is a lot of steel to go in with our TF panels acting as infill essentially. (we are in a high wind and snow zone ) I intent to drop the whole building and prep the existing steels whilst the groundworks are being done. I am also breaking out the slab and renewing. It is important to remember the planners want a conversion but with so little structure it is difficult to think of it as one. I have also had issues with lenders on mortgaging this property to add to the complexity of the build.
  2. albert

    New Build mid Devon

    Hi Nickw . I'm also a Mid Devoner and building a class Q so good luck and feel free to ask for advice or contacts. I may be able to help as we are builders and developers down here and my wife is house designer, 3d render, interior buyer etc. A great wealth of knowledge and experience on this site from people who really care and have passion for what they are building/have built.
  3. albert

    Steel portal frame lacking DPC detail.

    Ok Thanks guys I have to use the original pad foundations for the frame and these are well below proposed dpc so I think i will just have to lap up to the steel.
  4. Hi I am doing a class Q ( conversion of steel portal frame building to residential) and I am looking for advice on achieving a suitable DPC detail where the steel penetrates the DPC DPM at slab level. from my research so far it look as if commercial buildings just lap a DPC or tanking system up to the steel but wondered if anyone has experience in this area. Id like better solution as capillary action will surely let dame rise up the steel. Any thoughts appreciated. G
  5. albert

    Buying metal roofing from France: advice

    Yes I've tried that method I have rang and followed up with translated email but nothing. I think ill have to get a flight over buy it and then collect it when its in stock.
  6. Hi I am looking to use a product from Bacacier called Landrybac on my roof . I had a good price from them when i was over in the summer but my french is not good and I want to buy from a merchant near a ferry port but not finding it easy to communicate. Has anyone purchased materials in the EU and are there any other items worth buying at better prices while I am there with my HGV. I know it will be hassle but I'm looking for a softer roof than standing seem /Tata urban and I know the french have use this product in mountains for years so it should be good in the snow and wind here. it is also much cheaper!! I have my own truck and would probably be back hauling to keep costs down. Bacacier are a big company but no contacts in the UK yet. Any advice would be great. A
  7. Wow.. some great ideas . Thanks everyone.
  8. I have asked my electrician for a master light switch by the front and back door that shuts down all lighting apart from the external lights. My idea is when all the light are left on I just hit one switch to turn them off when we leave the house. Simple to wire. Does anyone have any other ideas that would be useful to incorporate in to a design? My wife is insisting that we are also having 2 dishwashers side by side, not sure on that one. We live on a farm so dust is always a problem especially on skirting boards I'm thinking a tapered or flush skirting board would be better. I have ruled out a laundry shoot and built in hoover points, but I am sure there are other simple ideas out there that make life easier and or more environmentally friendly.
  9. albert

    Rafter in wrong place!!

    the other opting is to trim down your flashing kits or use a thinner but better product where youve not got the desired allowance from key lite. I would find a solution other than to strip and refelt batten ideally.
  10. albert

    Rafter in wrong place!!

    Hi i would suggest that all the openings will be incorrect so adding a spacer as shown to all openings and making a cover strip / flashing to fit would be my first solution. You cant really cut the double or sistered rafter. cutting out hangers and removing square twists will leave a mess and most likely a hole in the membrane. You could use the laminated system but this is a large span with a decent load so it would need to be calculate and approved by your SE. They may be happy for you to shorten your trimmers by 50 mm and sister a rafter up butt jointed glued and bolted but would be better to use 2 x 25mm ply or graded timber substantially lapped and jointed. I would say a good roofer will sort it externally with just packing from inside if the veluxes can be spaced equally.
  11. albert

    Fascia and soffit options

    5mm ply soffit can sag if not supported properly, and yes if it is sagging it will look v bad. If using a ply go to 9 or 12mm for a better finish.
  12. albert


    The hitachi is OK.. it is cheap and looks and handles very well, but its not tough or up to contact work. We run mostly air and a few paslodes . I bought a hitachi as it was on offer and it was great i nearly bought another until things started breaking and it in went in to be fixed 3 times. Its only fired maybe 5000 nails which is nothing and we look after our kit. I always prefer air 1st and 2nd fix even on site with a hose to drag round but thats just me. A decent small compressor £250 plus vat and air nailer £200 plus vat. will fire 100'000 nails with a drop of oil and next to no maintenance. We still have cordless nailers but they all have issues with dirt and cold weather etc etc , out of gas .flat battery,fans . Air hoses do have health and safety issues as a down side. Id say the Hatachi is an ok tool if you use it for self build ,clean it, box it and let no one else use it. treated with kid gloves it may survive a few bumps but thats it. Mine was a 2016 so they may have made changes
  13. Thanks They are in a CIL area and submitted the forms with the application. I have all the details but this point form my consultant has confused me somewhat. "From my understanding of CIL is that an extension over 100 sq m attracts CIL. However a freehold owner who occupies the dwelling as their main residence can apply for an exemption (this must be done before any works start). I understand that the potential liability for CIL can be passed to any new owner (following completion of the correct forms). I assume that a new owner could apply for the exemption if the work hadn’t started. If the work starts before a sale, under an exemption applied for by the current owners, then from what I gather from the guidance notes on CIL (attached) this doesn’t result in a disqualifying event from exemption as long as the whole dwelling is sold as one. I would strongly suggest speaking to the Council regarding queries on CIL, as it is still a relatively new process, " I will do some further reading. Thanks again.
  14. OK great I did try and search but no whiz on computer. Thanks
  15. albert

    Glulam beams: specifying is one thing but.....

    Sorry slow response. its my own time saver! On the plumb cut of your rafter rater than site the rafter on top of the GL and cut all those plumb and seat cuts we ping a line on the side of the GL and nail on hangers at spacing's. We then cut all our rafters ( we gang cut all at same time in one pass) and on the plumb cut we run a cut through the plumb cut at 90 degs as a seat to the hanger usually 40-50 deep at the correct rafter depth. its quick and neat and also gets the GL in the roof cassette if head height is needed or the gl is a big one. if its very wide and the first batten needs to be higher then theres a bit more faffing. Get you SE to approve the detail first. for us its a job the unskilled lads can do nailing hangers leaving the carps to cut and fit quickly. We also designed a GL system that my BCO approved the other day that is a real obvious one and I had never thought of it before. but is so useful in loft conversions. We use graded structural ply to make a GL rafter either side of a new opening, usually velux. rather than stripping the roof we use 2.4m sections of 25mm graded ply to make the GL rafter under the roof covering . can be any size , and go over existing purlins. laminate with PU glue and gang nail to desired strength . roof fully trimmed out under the existing felt ready for roofer to turn up as and when. check with your SE first but Its not difficult to calc roof loads and get the beams signed off. I wish I'd thought of it years ago!!