PeterW

Right... Questions: Will the 2 pumps be sufficient? We're only looking at a relatively low flow rate, with a low flow temperature (25-28C), but it's a lot of pipe to pump through... We've got Wilo Pico glandless pumps following the earlier recommendation - yes, they will be adequate although you may want to keep the speed evenly balanced. How will you create the low flow temp though..? If we close both zone valves, we'll have effectively sealed off the coil - I presume that since the coil will still be getting hot, we will need a small expansion vessel and a PRV - is that correct? Sort of but you only zone the flow not the return so there is always expansion there - you need to calculate the volume properly as it’s the whole of the UFH and rads not just the coil. Do we need an expansion vessel for the rest of the UFH circuit as well? IIRC we are intending to run the UFH at 1 bar. See above - doubt you will find a PRV at less than 1.5bar and it may just be quicker and easier to use the F&E assuming its higher than the top of the radiators ..?? I presume that since there is a drain cock fitted to every manifold, we don't need to add additional drainage points for the UFH - is that correct? Yes although draining UFH is nigh on impossible anyway so don’t panic. On the subject of drain cocks, I presume we will need one on the DHW side of things, so we can drain down the heat bank? Yes

@Radian where in the UK are you ..?? Those steel sizes are very odd - they don’t match anything in the blue book and the closest sizes I can find I am struggling to really see how they can support the weight of the roof and the wall on the corner. Assuming that’s a 178x102x19kg UB and a 203x102x23kg then the quick fag packet I’ve just done would mean the 178 lightly loaded over 6m would exceed the l/360 limit for deflection and the 203 would fail deflection due to the roof loads. Neither of those are big steels especially for a 6m span. I would ask for a copy of the engineers calculations... and his PI insurance ..! Also, what’s the construction method here as you only show a single skin ..??

If you are England then you need the sewage company permission to connect to someone else’s pipework as it creates a service connection.

If you pump you cannot go into a shared drain or inspection chamber directly - you have to go to an intercept chamber first and then run via gravity to the shared sewer connection.

What is the window span..? That will be affecting the steel sizing as the pillar will be taking a lot of the load. A 200x200 UC isn’t that big tbh and you will need that for the top plate anyway just for the end bearing of window lintels or steels. Do you have any drawings ..?

Sorry - who’s said 2m deep needs underpinning ..?? What is the in-laws invert level and the sewer invert ..? you could run at 1200mm all the way to the in-laws, pick them up at that depth and run to the front gate, drop to 2m over 2m which is fine and then go 1:60 into the sewer. If if you are pumping then you still need the fall to the sewer from the in-laws and would need a very good sealed intercept for the pump outlet.

There be dragons.... check the small print in Wrens contract as I'm pretty sure the cabinet warranty is a limited cover if they don't install them.

Saw a Howdens designed kitchen a few months back - didn't fit, despite them coming and measuring twice for the design. And you sign off that you accept their dimensions and they aren't responsible if it doesn't fit ! The spec was for soft close drawers on all units, and they supplied the wrong soft closers 3 timed before finally admitting the provided drawer types couldn't have them retrofitted and they had supplied the wrong carcasses.... Has put me off for life !

Most BCOs will now not accept back drops as they are notorious for blocking and prefer to use steeper gradients. The chances of pipes drying and sticking with uPVC is vastly less than with clay. Think the guidance changed a few years ago on all of this, and know we have discussed it before.

Had friends who had a quote for a kitchen in the Wickes Summer sale - kitchen was £3300 and fitting £1450. Had another quote during the January sale for same kitchen layout just with different doors, and the kitchen was £3600 and fitting was £2700, with "50% off" making it £1350.... Salesman didn't know where to look when they pulled the original quote out...

Would look better with 2 in each tile.

Be careful as very wide treads start to get expensive in anything but white wood.

There must be an interlocked thermostat with a resettable over temperature function on a UVC to meet Part G of building regulations. @Ian Nixon who installed this and signed it off ..??

Just go to TS and get the Cox gun - better than the cheap crap that the supermarkets sell.

Pear Stairs provide the half landing if you ask and it’s not expensive.

For disposable tools I use Titan - bought the alligator saw as a demolition tool and it jammed a blade and they swapped it out without an issue at Screwfix. As @Declan52 said, if you don’t like it then take it back and get a new better one. Worth checking though when you do get it that the fence and blade are square to each other, and that the blade is square to the deck.

I’d fit the wedges to that - will stop the window moving in its frame.

Sounds like someone has tried to pull the window open from the outside - there may be anti-jemmy hooks fitted or a set of alignment or sash seal wedges. If not, easy to do and cheap. Check the hinge side for these sort of things Anti - Jemmy hooks Alignment or sash seal wedge The bottom ones are designed to force the seals tight and stop the window from doing what you are experiencing. You can buy them cheap enough here

Go and buy this with change from £100 Titan Sliding Mitre Saw You will use it for a lot more than you think, and when it breaks, take it back and get a new one under warranty.

K and C are interchangeable as 1c = 1K

For the £20, use the Mapei primer and do it right - you can dilute it 50/50 anyway.

Refurb wouldn’t need them.

@Dreadnaught get the overhanging branches trimmed ASAP ..! If it’s your drive then you can cut them back. Telehandlers come in all shapes and sizes - a baby Merlo or JCB will still lift a panel to over 4m which is plenty high enough.

That floor barely meets regs - why not change it to Jabfloor units and put 225mm full fill beam units in and overlay with 30mm kingspan/celotex and use 100mm reinforced slab as the top finished floor. Would make it easy to work on and much more insulated.

No issue there putting the main switch in the house and taking a single off the incomer and taking that into a standard CU and running a 4 core 10mm across to the garage sub main. Just because you have the 3Ph into the plant room doesn’t mean you have to use all phases in the house.