PeterW

Leave them alone .... they are tight enough, do not torque them up or you could crack the porcelain ..!

What is providing the lateral restraint there as that will try and push both walls out, worse with a hipped roof as the corner jack rafters put lateral loads on the points. Has this got buttress pillars down the sides ..?

Normally, there is a closer board across the cavity and the last set of tiles sits on the edge of the brickwork unless you have an open eaves detail. Search for Cottage Eaves detail.

What is providing the kick to the last row of tiles if it’s not the fascia board...?

Depends on your fascia finish ...??

2.8m is a nice size and not hugely expensive. The issue becomes garage door lintels that start to get expensive above that size and also the twist you get with only small amounts of brickwork on a lintel flange.

ASHP can be put out of sight but needs careful design for airflow. A number of commercial buildings use a type of brise soleil type setups with the end gable wall of a building and then vented panels in the roof to get airflow. It can be done but to minimise internal noise you need a very rigid structure.

They are both right ... they are a standard 1” BSP thread but they have a captive nut and a fixed nut which means they can be turned to be aligned. At £12 / pair they are cheap tbh as I paid about £7.50 for a single one with a pair of female ends but that was a fixed block.

Pressure has nothing to do with it. Flow of 3.5l/m in a 10mm pipe will give you around 16 seconds to get hot at 21m. The same run done in 15mm would be nearer 42 seconds.

The S’Fix one is made of recycled bottle tops .... avoid ..! 1600x900 is an odd size in that room as you’ll end up with a very small sliver that will leak. Maybe better to give yourself a decent “gap” that could have a towel rail or similar so consider 1500x900 These ones are good - and heavy too

Agree with the above - scrim is probably worthwhile here as otherwise due to doors slamming etc you may get cracks. Toupret or Alabsatine filler are the best here - also worth getting a very wide filling knife such as a 6” metal one to get the joint as flush as possible. You will end up filling both an 1” from the old plaster too as you’ll have to get the old stuff off to start with to get the scrim to bond onto the board below the skim coat.

@AliG I didn’t say that I liked it ...!! ?

Minisun make the Solara light which is a mix of both standard and flex light. Solara Search hotel bedside lights as they have this sort of thing

@Jude1234 Do you have your air tightness and as built SAP scores ..? Even in cold weather, a minimum building regs build wouldn’t need more than 9kw which is what the heat pump will give. I think there is something amiss - from memory, you have a timber frame ..? Insulation in this should have been pretty good, I’m wondering if the manifolds are shutting down as the thermostat is in the wrong place. Pictures, info on the build spec etc would be useful if you have it ..?

I doubt it’s air - sounds like the mechanism inside the blending valve. Got a photo..??

How much ... ..???? Are you sure that doesn’t include warranty inspections ..??

Unlikely that will be allowed. The plans piece would have to be done again at cost. Are we talking more than £3-500 saving as tbh my experience of private is better than LA however others have had good LA experiences.

Do you mean the solid feel of wet plaster ..?? I’ve used the new foam adhesive rather than dot and dab and been surprised how solid it feels - you get the speed benefit of the skim coat and quick drying with the “solid” feel with no hollow sound behind the boards.

@TheMitchells you would need the concealed one, then run the outlet pipe to a wall plate in the shower area. If you want a pumped shower then one that is loft mounted would be my choice too.

Errr it’s not ..... they’ve been developed using a number of materials - they are usually multiple layers - that have different characteristics under varying vapour pressures and rely on in some instances the negative pressure created by the outside air temperature ... they also work when it’s cold, and the thermal gradient is inverted to how you have stated it. Simplifying it to a hot / cold thermal transfer is like saying it never rains in the summer as it’s warm ...

Is this a semi-ped basin..?? Basin needs its bolts into the wall, and any of the above to hold it back but do not bond the pedestal to the wall !!! it only needs to be fitted on its brackets as you have to be able to remove it.

So you won't get reasonable pressure with a gravity system. Hot and cold will be same pressure assuming its a hot tank not a combi, but if its all cold tank driven then it will be as high as the tank is above the ceiling. Consider the Mira Platinum ones, have a 5 year warranty on the units. I've had an Aqualisa pumped one fitted for about 8 years now on a job and its never missed a beat but I think its noisy.

If you want a quick and simple solution then fit a carbon foam filter block inside the extract vent - they are usually used for fish ponds but what they do is trap the grease and just wash it out every so often. Should be no more than £10. One question I would ask though of the people worried about cleaning the ducts on MVHR.... when was the last time you cleaned your extractor hood pipework ..???? I know a lot of people who change the filters but nothing else, and even with a filter due to the direct extract route these get very mucky yet we all seem to ignore it ..??

Yep - stops ends cracking open as they dry faster. The other issue is airflow - I’ve seen people build virtually airtight covers for wood stacks and wondered why they rot as the moisture can’t get out and the beasties find nice moist areas between the boards. The quickest and cheapest fingers are offcuts from the sides of boards as you trim them once you’ve cut them to thickness. Polytunnels make great drying sheds as you can open them up at the ends to get airflow but can also increase the heat by either the sun or even use heaters. Just don’t use gas heaters as they create more moisture than the remove unless you have them externally vented !!

Paint the ends of the boards with cheap gloss paint. Couple of scaffold boards across the top, tarp over it but make sure the ends are covered from the top but still exposed.