PeterW

25 gallon....

Nah if you want an accumulator you are looking at 150-250 litres and £4-500... Other option is a 25 gallon coffin tank in the attic - which floor is the shower on ..?

As above - can’t point load concrete, needs to be a steel. 178x102x19 would probably do it, other option is a box lintel off the shelf and give Catnic a quick call as they will tell you what theirs will take and if you can point load them with 6 courses of masonry on top. Is it bricks or blocks as bricks have a nasty habit of moving if they are point loaded.

You can, but they are eye watering in price for anything big - £6-800 last time I looked.

If you’ve not already done the connections I would take the 3Ph to the garage and run a single phase back to the house. Other than incidental stuff like induction hobs, house loads are usually much smaller than garage loads such as machinery and having the hassle in the house of 415v potential and the other stuff isn’t worth it in my opinion.

I used to live in Playford - some nice bits round there but from memory it was really expensive. Have you considered further up the A14 toward Bury St Edmunds or up toward Norwich ..?

@Sue B looks good ..! I would make a couple of changes - master bed en-suite door needs moving to the right or even onto the short wall as it wastes a huge amount of space. Also swap the downstairs Jack and Jill door into the bedroom to open into the bedroom as otherwise you will have very little floor space in there. @D Walter what wall board are you using ..?

Thats the converse with me as I have to remember if I’ve done the lock up ..! I like the fact that with Hep2O it’s push, twist, done...! Same with compression - I only buy decent ones with copper olives and use PTFE paste on them and never had one go on me.

That stuff is extortionate ..!! Just use 50mm green with a wrap of standard black...

Oh yeh - buy Hep2O next time too... ? Floplast push fits are made from recycled pot noodle tubs....

PEX as water pipes is fine but also invest in some blue and red insulation tape and mark all the pipes as you go.

It's a weird Scottish Regulation about the ability to clean windows from the inside. Have a look at this link section 5. Probably due to either there being no window cleaners in Scotland as its always raining, or that the Scots are too tight to pay to have them cleaned...

So as they are all closed today... are you making a list ..?? Assuming the PHE has threaded connections ..? Tank got 22mm compression ..? Are you doing this in copper and compression or push fit..?

Similar in India however the build tech and standards are somewhat suspect occasionally ..!!!

Looks on plan to be finished by 2021 as you predicted ....!

BuildHub on Safari on the iPhone - one of the reasons we chose the forum software as it supports dynamic formatting natively.

Home button and power button simultaneously ....

No pressure there then that it actually works then @newhome..!!!

A row of 8mm holes up the wall will allow you to inject foam and it will spread pretty evenly - excess will just come out of the holes you’ve drilled so some plastic taped around the area will stop any mess. Holes 100mm apart will be easy to fill and you won’t notice them.

MR plasterboard would be my choice as it’s a lot harder than normal stuff and takes paint easily. If you used a standard square edge cladding fascia board at the bottom it would protect the bottom of the wall and let you stop the board a couple of inches up from the floor.

Yep - you’ll get near on 40 litres a minute on a 40m pipe at 6 bar. Your issue will be the boiler flow - you’ll need to drop the pressure to 3 bar, but at 10m of copper 22mm, 3 bar will still be flowing 38 litres per minute. To put out this into context, the top of the range Worcester 550CDi High Flow has a maximum DHW flow of 27 litres per minute ... and it’s change of £2,500..... You won’t have an issue with flow if you have 3 bar of pressure.

Be about 15 usable litres above it - can’t see the point tbh. It’s purely as a buffer to stop the boiler firing every time it needs a bowl of water or someone washes their hands. When the showers kick in, you’ve probably got about 3-4 mins before the boiler kicks in and takes over providing heat to the PHE. I’d mount the stat about 6” above the bottom inlet directly opposite the outlet. It will probably be mid point of the coils for the UFH at that point too. Top inlet I would use a tee upright, boiler into the top, tee to the tank and bottom to the PHE. Bottom I would use tee horizontal with left to boiler return, top to PHE and right to tank. Pump below the PHE pumping downwards, maximize any convection through it.

DPC will bend 90 degrees - its a fairly standard detail.

If you use a beam and block system such as jetfloor it is self supporting - the beams take the load. The one I saw had a lot of rebar in it, and most of the spine walls were blockwork so they acted as props but it was pretty much an Acro forest !

It’s just another ICF floor if it’s flat. Beco do one, as do Jetfloor. The detail is where and how you make it waterproof, and how you complete any upstand or parapet as they either have to tie into the concrete core mechanically, or you create a cold bridge that needs very good detailing. I saw one that used Beco I think to do it and it was very good - they cast the roof tied direct to the core with waterproof concrete and then added another layer of tapered PIR onto the top, and then covered the lot with ply and GRP. The upstand had a continuous cast parapet top in tinted white cement based concrete and it looked like sandstone - cost about £6k from memory just for the parapet top.