PeterW

Yep have done that, and electric elements in towel rails too in bathrooms. As you say, means they are independent of the main heating.

Optimist....

Probably a flow valve turned right down so it’s vibrating with the flow of water going through it - bit like a Venturi and a reed

Timer and thermostat - need to be tank controls to regulate the tank temperature. Who installed all of the tank and ASHP..?

So if that is correct, and heating the hot water is just by timer then you can’t be running a setup that meets the G-3 regs - do you have a benchmark book or installation certificate..?

The temperature differential between a thermostat switching on and off .... so if you set it to 20c, how much either side before you get an on or off... And that was Hysteria... Good album though !!

Now that’s odd as if you look at the settings for the thermal store with heater, UniQ_SBC_02, it states it has a PV diverter option to take any charge when available ..!

Seems ok. A zone can be controlled by a single thermostat. Potentially you could have each bedroom on its own stat, other than that it’s all fine as you’ve got it. Multi loop zones are fine too. Try and go for a common spacing everywhere and don’t mix and match. Start with a design flow temp of 35c and work back from that - if you need to reduce the spacings due to overheating consider it to be a zone with its own controller or thermostat. And the stats need to have a tight hysteresis - 0.5c is good as anything else you may overshoot depending on floor finishes.

Errr ... in terms of absolute efficiency and ignoring any loss through walls/windows/doors, it doesn’t matter and the input heat required to raise the temperature by a degree is the same. Some of the “self learning” thermostats calculate the average delta change by time and then are supposed to be able to calculate the optimal start time for the heating to ensure its xC by xx:xx etc. I’ve never seen one do it accurately yet ..! Staggering the times may mean the lounge / dining gets a slightly higher flow temperature but that is pretty unlikely to affect it.

Probably like chicken ...

All the PEX/Al/PEX and PERT/AL/PERT stuff has the same build up - a pair of plastic pipes bonded to an aluminium layer. It’s all 16x2 which is near enough a 1mm plastic sandwich either side of a layer of aluminum foil a few microns thick to create the oxygen impermeable layer. Target prices are around 42-45p/m ex VAT if you shop around.

You’d be surprised. I’ve put a 6 zone manifold in a cupboard with no issues. The problem starts though when you have doorways that need 2 zones through them as a 200mm spacing needs at least 800mm clear otherwise you do get hot spots. LoopCad helps with this and will make your life a lot easier.

Bit of both. Used to be that pipe was only available in 100m reels too. Its why the Wunda self adjusting heads are so good as they adjust the flow to get a delta 7c across flow and return of each pipe loop so you can have varying lengths in the same zone

Whilst a couple of people have shopped around for bits to save a few quid, I know of a number of issues where one or two pieces haven’t worked and it’s difficult to get to the root cause of the issue. For the sake of £100 or so which is normally the difference, buy all the manifold components - that’s manifolds, blenders, actuators, pumps etc from the same supplier as you have one throat to choke. Pex pipe is standardised so you can get that pretty much anywhere.

Your limit is length of loop - try and balance them all to less than 100m each. Is everything ground floor ..? What’s the total heated area and what is the heat source ..?

Design ...?? DIY, download loopcad free for 30 days. Bits ..? WundaTrade are good, save the hassle and go with the Wunda self adjusting heads and only play with the flow temp.

I take it he normally builds car parks .....?? Never seen a 2 CuM pad for a single post.... There is detail for what is above the 203 - bolted wallplate from the picture - but nothing on the 178..?? I think he’s missed a detail here and as I’ve said before, I can’t see how that will not deflect more than 16mm in the centre which would be l/360. The engineer should have provided this as part of his calculations.

SE is wrong - to do the calculations they will have had to produce the exact steel dimensions so they should have provided them as part of the drawings as they will need to be accurate. Who engaged the engineer..? If it was the architect then tell him to get the engineer to put it right.

Not sure they do in this scenario as the unit I’ve seen that @Temp is referring to only has a single driver for the two motors and a single limit switch. These are pretty low tech units - nearly as low tech as the one I built from wood (yep..!) although it gave a pretty good accuracy. A guy I used to work with built a £99 3D printer and then used it to print another one, now has one that would have cost upward of £1500 if he had bought it and has only had to buy the linear bearings and the print head as the rest he has printed.

Yes - steel or TF lintel supporting the gable blockwork or brickwork.

Ok got to say I’m even more confused now ..! This is a single room, and there is a room above, and a standard roof structure on that..? And all of that sits on a single 4m long 203x102 beam..? What is more bizarre about that design is there are very detailed SHS post detail but nothing about the intersection of the corner post and it’s two intersecting beams ..?? Is there a detail section for the corner shown with the dotted edge box ..? I would expect that there is a welded plate to the top of the column and end detail for each of the beams and how they are bolted to the column. There is partial end restraint detail on the beams (for example the 203 has a spreader but it doesn’t say what or how it’s attached to the wall) whereas the SHS is very detailed. Using 2 different profiles for the beams makes it significantly more complex to join at the corner post. What would make more sense is to use a matched pair - one will be oversized but the additional cost steel will be lost in simplification of the fabrication. If it was me, I would redesign this to use a goalpost setup that is entirely freestanding, and take the roof loads down to the foundations using UC steels. This would mean that there would be a 4m heavy section goalpost with I would expect something like a 254x146x31 UB with a welded plate on the end face drilled for a number of M20 bolts. This would bolt to the end of another 254x146 or 254x102 running across the 6m opening and then have a 146 or 102 UC at the far end to create a fully bolted and secured corner structure. All of that needs proper design, and tbh I don’t think that the current design is safe as those steels are significantly under sized and there are vital design elements missing.

Do you have a proper wall section as currently a few of us are guessing at build up and can help but only really with some proper detail to work with ... Even a timber gable has a weight to it to be considered, and when you consider a BRegs min wall thickness is 350mm these days, losing a 205mm UC becomes easy.

Ok so to be horribly frank that is even worse in terms of loading as you have the bottom chord of the truss carrying the roof, floor and wall loads onto the beam. To give you an idea of why I’m not sure the calcs are correct, to take a static roof load of 7.5m span across a 4.5m opening, we specified a 254x146x31 and that did not need to take the floor loads. A 178x102 at 6.2m will bend more than its deflection limit just being picked up in the middle so that does not sound right. Given what you have said about the design then there must be a gable wall above the 6m opening - a 178 with masonry loading only is limited to 4m by NHBC, I would be seriously considering asking for a second set of calculations. Also, if these are the inner walls, what is holding up the outer skin ..??

Making this too hard ..... Start with your invert at 650mm below FFL. From there, you’ve got a 1:60 for 35m to in-laws IC so the invert here is now 1.2m give or take. C to D is now a 1.5m drop over 20m which is fine - it doesn’t need a backdrop or anything else, and if they want you could drop level with a 45 degree section if needed and the last bit would be 1:40 into the sewer. And whoever is telling you that you cannot dig a 300mm wide trench within a 2m gap at below founds level is talking bollocks. Foundations don’t just slide into holes - if they plan it properly then it will be fine as you use 6m lengths of UPVC and joint them before they go in the trench so no one is working below ground. Level sticks make sure you get the falls correct.

You need a mixing or blending valve not a 3 way here as otherwise you will get whatever temperature the tank gives you and that’s not a good idea. Modulating pump speed to make the temperature differential won’t work. Pump per manifold circuit Single blender on the output from the tank coil zone valve per zone. Easy to set up and should work fine.