PeterW

Fairly simple. Drill the posts at intervals 75mm deep with a 25mm spade bit then drill the rest with a 10mm bit. Get some stainless M8 rod, cut to 250mm lengths and then line up the oak to the wall where you want it and mark the wall through the hole. Drill the holes in the wall to 80mm carefully, then resin the studs in. Washer and nut will then tighten up inside the hole. Rough cut some pegs to 25mm rounds and then hammer home - glue if you want and then cut the pegs off when dry. I would use TimberLok screws to hold the rest together.

Ok ... couple of ways of checking, worth getting hold of a pressure gauge if you haven’t got one ..? Can do it all for about £15 in bits, a bucket and a stopwatch ..!

Very tidy !!! Is it worth (before filling) setting a couple of funnels into the bottom shelf below each filter so you can switch off, open the drain plugs and drain straight to the ground without having to spill water on the inside..??

I did some estimating on this a while back (need to find it...!) and i'm pretty sure that for a 150 sqm GIA property, the difference between 1.5 and two storey was negligible as the decrease in floor area was offset by the need to increase the insulation levels in the sloping roof (a roof uValue is lower than a wall uValue) and with a perfect 45 degree pitch, there is nearly 1.5 times the ceiling plasterboard so it doesn't offset the wall/ceiling for the first floor. From memory, the most cost effective was 8m x 8m square over 2 floors with a room in roof of 8m x 3m with roof pitch at 35 degrees.

The ISA is deemed cash - just has to be used as part of a property transaction. You will need a mortgage for the rest (dependent on savings etc) and that is where the fun will start....

I would (while you've got it all drained) add TMVs to most of the other rooms, the alternative being zone valves and supplies to different sources with linked controls. If you want radiator levels of heat input then 100mm centres will be needed.

Only if you want the floor to only be on at the same time as the rads Do all your other rads have TMVs on them..??

Test it now ... Need to make a dynamic and static test rig, but pretty simple to do from some plumbing bits and a pressure gauge. What is on "your end" of the 32mm pipe..?

And a "90 degree bend" is 87.5 degrees...

Sketch a plan on a bit of paper, showing where the limitations are in terms of the cables etc that you are aware of. Then its easier to comment.

You need to review the soil stack regs @AnonymousBosch as there are strict regulations on how it can be done

Melton Building Society still do a Self Build Mortgage product at 75% Advance Mortgage

Agree this is the sort of device but wouldn't recommend that brand... Look at the Stiebel Eltron Compact water heaters

Can't do that as building regulations do not allow a step immediately inside the doorway. You need a platform minimum 800mm square before the first step.

You're not getting antipathy - you're getting facts !! 1 - In normal circumstances, a first floor balcony requires planning permission as it is not permitted development. It is a raised platform and this is the planning guidance on it 2 - As a balcony or raised platform needs planning permission, it therefore requires building regulations. These are covered in Doc K and clearly state in K2 that guarding is required for any platform greater in height that 600mm. 3 - In terms of design, one or two of us have given some guidance, but tbh until you actually say how big it is, no-one can tell you how to potentially build it. We have made recommendations, but it feels like you want someone to design it for you. That's not going to happen as none of us would take the liability for it being wrong !! This is not a simple project. It has working at height, structural stability, and a host of other parts that make it bloody complex !!

Its because it heats your feet not your head first..! It is an odd one, if you look at the thermal gradient in a room for one with rads vs UFH, you get a hot top down gradient. With UFH, it rises but as the delta is smaller between air and surface, the gradient is lower. The controls needed to do this are incredibly complex as the hysteresis needed along with the PID algorithm would need to be able to control the temperature of the flow as well as the flow rate. In addition, the flow paths in a room are not perfectly linear you may get variations in overall room temperature for the same set point depending on thermostat location Got that the wrong way round - a lot have a big heavy slab contained in an EPS shell. What was being proposed was the other way round.

Interesting as his "commercial flat pack" thermal store in his image is actually a chill tank that is used as a buffer in big AC installations - that image belongs to Sirac who manufacture large scale heat pumps for industry... He also contradicts that he doesn't use any pumps, yet has an image for a solar controller that has a pump on it... So his "no pumps, no controls" system has pumps and controllers... It smells more of £5 for nowt..!

For an unvented appliance you need a pressure relief valve, with a blow off to an external drain point. Also wise to fit an expansion vessel.

Bin the super foil. It will do nothing under a floor as it works by reduction of radiated heat, of which there is none in that build up.

I love that layout ..!! Get an ikea storage unit, whack 6 industrial castors on it, and use it as a moveable screen. And is that a pool table, or artistic licence by your architect ..??

Vented water heaters are normally fitted above the counter as they fill using a valve system. Unvented can be fitted anywhere above or below and tend to have smaller capacity.

So why bother ...??

Seems a bit pricey when the same/similar Blauberg unit is £600..??

T&G won’t be strong enough for anything other than a small header tank - there are standard details for this. Tanks ideally need to be as high as possible - May be worth a separate platform for this.

Hosepipe. Buy a couple of these off eBay (assuming it’s 16/2 pipe) and then gently clamp onto the pipe and put a stub of 15mm copper on each one. Hose should stretch over the top and a jubilee will hold it in place. One hose to the tap, another to a drain. Doesn’t need a lot of pressure, just run for 3 or 4 mins per loop to flush any crud out.