PeterW

3.5 to 3.2 could be temperature related drop. Don’t forget you only run at 1-1.5 bar max in UFH.

Have you tried Sennocke as they didn’t need anything like this information to provide a very comprehensive and competitive quote.

Are you using profiles ..?? Hang them on the string pins above the row you need them in.

Have you looked at the party wall rules picture ..?? It should help you http://www.mypropertyguide.co.uk/articles/display/10105/are-my-proposed-works-covered-by-the-party-wall-act.htm

Just hire a ride on bomag for a weekend and be done with it ..!! More than enough weight to sort the problem even where trenches are concerned.

They have asked as if you have then you need different insurance. It is not a requirement and as @JSHarris says it will cause numerous issues elsewhere ..!! If this is BuildZone (Sennocke) then it’s a standard question.

Plastic will be less likely to cause condensation unless you are creating a lot of steam in the shed ..???? You will be better off finding a local supplier as shipping on 5m lengths will be horrendous, and short lengths will be charged at a premium. Fire retardant plastic will will be a problem unless you go for an ABS based product. Why the requirement ..??

Experience is what you get, when you don’t get what you want... Told to me by my very first programme director and it’s stuck with me for decades ..!! And it’s true....

Cos it’s crap and not designed for what you want to do ..?? You’ve no chance of attaching that to a spigot on a fan and turning it 90 degrees up. Use convoluted aluminium duct, and buy a roll of 100mm rockwool and use the rest to insulate over the top of the ceiling.

Capacitor on the control board

B1 isn’t needed - just use a feed from the switch output (ie when it’s on) to the A1 connection and then connect 15/18 as the connection. 15 is common, 18 is NO

I saw one done and they put signs up saying “speed survey in progress” and everyone slowed down..!! Depends on what they want though - if it’s a fixed system for a period then it could cost a bit.

Ok so how long are the loops ..?? 4 way would indicate 400m of pipes max so that’s about 60 litres of content. If you then think you want to add probably 15 litres of antifreeze, you need to empty one loop entirely - not easy ..! Have you got a submersible pump ..?? A bucket and a couple of hoses and you could circulate the contents of each loop, and bin the first couple of litres into a separate bucket as you add the antifreeze into the pump bucket.

It’s a cement board that is hard as nails. There are others, you can tile straight over it.

6mm ply then 12mm Hardiebacker would work then.

Yes it’s fine. With this build up I would just be going with a hardiebacker type board straight on the joists. 15mm stuff would be more than enough assuming your putting a good 50mm pug around the pipes.

Are the loops linked together ..?? I would go the opposite way and blow them through with compressed air and cap the tops with duct tape. Even if there is a little water left in them it won’t matter.

Looks similar to what @ProDave has done

Technically yes however as a single has no air gap it is not deemed to be sufficient ....

DCV is required after the main stop tap and before any other filters or pressure reducing valves. After that; they are only required where contamination may occur. It is good practice to put single check valves on the feeds to showers

Yes you do - Timber frame though is usually supply and fit, so zero rated by the supplier

So if the power fails, you’re locked on a balcony ....??? ?

SBR is also available in 1 litre tubs in Wickes for £7 if you don’t need a lot.

How dry is the Oak...?? If its still green, then I would drill them at 12mm and use a couple of stainless washers to allow movement - use an 8mm and a 12mm penny washer to allow it to move slightly

Yeh and just paint the inside of the holes with some SBR if you have it, cup full in the mix will also make it more "sticky"