PeterW

No heating controllers listed in that lot ..?

I would build a miniature version of the Tamar bridge and then see what they have to say ..!!

Looks like there was no inhibitor in the system ..?? Is it an open tank or a sealed system..??

Why are you venting it ..?? A plan may help here as I’m lost as to where everything goes ...

You can save on antifreeze just by using a buffer tank and coil but it’s not that expensive and you’re talking probably £100 or so for the average system. It also doesn’t degrade like it does on a GSHP as it’s not being circulated the same.

Apologies as by specialist kit I meant fittings - just tend to be pricey that’s all.

I don't like the 25/16 Uponor stuff as it needs specialist kit to alter it. Ask for it to be redone in Hep2O as then you can get like for like quotes

I’d build a diversion channel for the leat and then build a proper concrete culvert with a decent base and sides (and front apron) and then close your diversion channel when it’s set. You can do this in as little as 72 hours, and also allows you to then cap it with concrete using shuttering and rebar. At 1200mm wide, it will only need to be 180mm thick with rebar to hold a car.

I would caution here .... Whilst your BCO is signing off your build, they aren’t experts in construction (ask @JSHarris about this...) Is this private or Council BCO ..? You need to meet the Building Regulations and there are lots of options how to do that, some just have a set way of doing things. If you’ve got to go to 1.6m, and use ClayBoard then seriously consider an insulated slab for the whole build as it is borderline cost at those sorts of depths.

Think about adding a low level vent near the tank instead - think @JSHarris stuck his in a flower bed ..!

As long as there is a vent somewhere else on the system then no, but an anti-syphon trap on the sink is always a good move. The cement - or cement based tile adhesive - is only 5-8mm thick so the flex in the joints should accommodate that.

They are ribbed inside and collect soap and scum, hair etc... Hot water makes them flexible and they sag, and then collect more crud ... and eventually they block and you can’t poke anytinf down them as they puncture easily ... other than that, they are great !! ? Looking at that waste you need to set the waste pipes correctly then unscrew the top, drop the tray over the top and do it up from above.

So... welcome ..! I know your architect, and I know why you’re going to be challenged to build that for the budget ..!! I would have a serious look at those wall specs as some are wrong (Party wall and internal stud wall) and some are just overkill. Why use sound block plasterboard on blockwork walls for example ..?? Firstly, seriously consider a straight render on block scheme, and lose some of the CaSil board on render detail as you don’t need it. There is a lot of cost for no benefit. Next, you do not need a party wall build up into a garage - it’s just classed as an external wall with insulation Thirdly, the differing insulation types and detail will give you a headache - switching from cavity fibre to external PIR on batten is pretty pointless and will just create cold bridges on transitions. You could do some serious value engineering on that and save a lot of money and make it much easier to build and still get the same effect. Out of interest, what are the sections through the floors and roof, and what’s the roof finish ..??

Try BLT Direct as you can filter on all those requirements.

Its fine and using a self lock boss like the one @Tennentslager listed then you have no issues.

Nope ... East Mids..! @gwebstech where are you..?

Step away from the flexi.... turn the shower waste to point at the drain, pair of 45 bends to drop the level and straight into a strap boss ...

Its easy - draw your room, add the doors and windows and drag and drop the cabinets. They do check before you order you haven’t missed anything and are good when you get a cabinet wrong. Personal opinion is that all the Wren/Wickes/Howden designers have a set pattern they use and it’s crap. You know how you will use your kitchen and what works for you - you’re the best designer for your kitchen ..!

£1.00 to £1.40 round here depending on block grade and pointing

Emmeti are very good at brassware. I expect their pipe is actually just one of the standard ones rebadged. How many zones is he planning ..??

It never will. It was removed from legislation as too difficult to impose. And there will be the suppliers who are there for those that don’t have them, and they will be competitive too..

It’s the same answer - depending on soil type you dig deeper. I went 1500mm in places next to a sycamore and we found no roots at all and this is on sand and gravel. You may also get asked to go beam and block to leave a void, or use clayboard that allows ground deformation if it is anything other than a free draining subsoil.

Yep - a good truss manufacturer will design it for you, most likely the dormer will be a part built section and need assembly and some cutting on site. Don’t be tempted to use one of the pre-formed GRP dormers as they are crap.

Yards..?? 9 by 2...??? Have you been building since the turn of the last century ..??! ? You can build your own fairly easily - these were from leftover rafters and Egger board, and lasted for 14 months before being repurposed as cellar steps ..!

Samples are huge - basically you buy a door that is about 350x250mm for £5..! Lots of free drinks and cake - can make it a 2-3 hour trip easily. Not the easiest place to find as the showroom is to the right hand side of the main factory. Take lots and lots of photos - some of the detail around the end cabinets and some of the infill stuff is very clever and it’s all done with standard components.