D Walter

Members
  • Content Count

    111
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

39 Neutral

About D Walter

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Whippingham, Isle of Wight

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks Russell. About 10 years from starting clearing the site to finishing.
  2. Well, you got the Trespa right so 👍. I did look at the zinc but very costly and more dependent on the quality of the fitting than with the Tata.
  3. Thanks Mr Punter. We spent lots of time looking at timber cladding all over the place and particularly in coastal enviornments like ours and so much had weatherd badly (uneven with lots of blackening) that we decided on the Trespa. Speaking to local builders the general impression was that timber cladding did not fare well in the Island. Yes, very pleased so far and hopefully it will wear well. The Tata steel cladding is also doing well so far but it is very early days.....
  4. I have not submitted any pictures of our finished house so here are a few exteriors, with the landscaping almost finished. There is a bit of estate railing, steel edging to the drive and a bit more topsiol required. With the estate railing and the edging for the drive and flower beds we buy in the steel, my builders do the setting out and the heavy lifting and I do all the welding on site. Thanks again for all the assistance and encouragement. David
  5. Apologies, but I do not have a technical grounding and don't understand the response. Are you able to clarify, thanks.
  6. Hi, picking up on this old thread, is there a simple way to convert the airtightness results from a SAP test into the Passive House equivalent or will I need to do a volume calculation for the house first? Our SAP test has just been done and the I was told that the result is 1.71 which I assume is m3/(m2*h).
  7. Yup, completed the survey. Hope it goes well.
  8. Thanks Pocster. The risk of galvanic corrosion between alu and galvanised is relatively low in any event.
  9. Hi Pocster, Looking at your photo, have you used anodised alu channel for the frameless balustrade and was it bolted into galvanised steel? If so, what sort of bolts did you use and were you able to take any precautions against galvanic corrosion?
  10. We have just received certification of inspections carried out from our nominated CRL inspector, which is a hopeful sign...
  11. Hi, Quick update - my Structural Engineer says that securing the bottom fixed alu channel with M10 Type 316 SS bolts into tapped threaded RHS 8mm mild steel box section is fine. On the issue of frameless glass balustrading moving out of alignment over time, this should hopefully not be a problem with most of the dry-fixed systems where the rubber gasket can be removed and spacers adjusted. Some systems requires a tool for removal of the spacers (usually also required for installation) and others have spacers which are adjustable by means of, e.g. allen bolts. If I experience any problems I will do a subsequent post. David
  12. Thanks for the input everyone. I will get some SE advice on this. As for adjustment over time, some of the systems are easy to adjust after initial fixing and some impossible...
  13. We are looking to install frameless glass balustrading on a balcony, bottom fixed to painted galvanised 200 x 150mm 8mm RHS steel box section, and on a terrace bottom fixed to concrete. My current issue relates to the balcony which will require 1100mm high balustrading tested to 0.74kn/m2. We are looking at the various anodised alloy channel systems (PanelGrip, OnLevel etc..). The recommendation is that 17.5mm toughened laminated glass is acceptable provided it is fixed at 200mm centres but that the better option is 21.5mm toughened laminated glass which can be fixed at 600mm centres. I assume that the different fixing centres for thickness of glass is related to the potential for flexion damage. We are intending to use M10 Type 316 SS bolts for fixing, bolted into tapped holes in the RHS8 so as to avoid through bolting the box section with nuts underneath. My concerns are a) the potential for galvanic corrosion between the galvanised steel, the SS bolts and the aluminium channel, particularly given we are on the Isle of Wight and have some salt in SW gales; and b) whether bolting into tapped holes in 8mm steel will be sufficient. Any thoughts/advice would be most appreciated. We will be using Galvafroid to seal where we are tapping through the galvanising wherever possible. Incidentally, it looks like the best prices we can find are on F. H. Brundles site where they offer a number of different systems and competitive glass prices. Thanks David
  14. Grendel thanks for this. Bad news. I will have to see about getting on the creditors list. Hmmmmmmm.......
  15. We were going to install a Dibt certified woodburner in our build which has MVHR but had too many issues with routing of the chimney. Instead we will be installing a cheaper or recycled woodburner against structrural pillar, with no chimney, and have purchased a £20 Bioethanol burner to insert in the woodburner. The Bioethanol burner will vent directly into the room with water vapour and a small amount of Co2 as the only by-products. It is unlikely that we will use the Bioethanol burner more than a few times but we wanted the woodburner as a feature and the Bioethanon burner justifies having it and does give a standby heating source in the unlikely event we ever need it. Overall, we estimated that this solution will save us a few thousand pounds and also avoid the airtightness and potential MVHR filter fouling issues. It also has benefits regarding wood storage, dust, sharpening chainsaw chains etc.. etc (incuding risk of losing fingers etc...)