PeterW

So the 45 degree rule would indicate that the load is spread and a vehicle would have to be very close to the building to exert a load that would move a block with 12-15 more rows of blocks sat on top of it. Can see a reason for doing it at a garage doorway but not anywhere else.

EPS70 would be fine. Why does the SE think there is a compressive load ..???

How many guys doing it ..?? 2 on saws plus one feeding a chipper, that’s about right if it’s aerial work and they can’t just drop the ash trees in a straight line

Set round tantalised posts into the gabion which will stabilise the steps and cut them level with the top. Then screw the boards to that so the posts take the load not the gabions.

Doubt that is structural given the state of it - you’ll still need a party wall agreement due to distance to the neighbours so why not do it properly and talk to them first and see what is acceptable ..? Depending on ground conditions you could probably excavate that existing wall and pour a shuttered concrete retaining wall in less than a week. How close does your foundation wall need to be to that brickwork..??

I’ve done that with a Mira unit but remember the pipe distance to the shower itself will affect the time for the shower temperature to respond to the controls

the original link seems to have a session ID appended to the URL hence it is failing

Other benefit is you can lay out your internal wall sole plates and see how big the rooms are and change the plans if needed on the fly within reason.

Mira digital ones are better tbh Fitted an Aqualisa one a few years ago and I think they are a bit noisy with the pumps.

Standard 3:1 mix but reinforce any thin bits with stainless rods - M4 or M6 threaded rod will do as it’s cheap.

@Joanna Susskind can you share the exact wording of the planning condition as other than for a type of facing brick or tile (ie Ibstock Beamish Blend) planners can not dictate the use of a product by name for something that would never be seen.

that sounds like a leak and not the brickwork getting wet. Sounds like there are no soakers under the edges of the tiles or they aren’t installed properly.

Rocut shears are great but watch your skin as they can pinch the pad of your hand and give you a nice blood blister ... ask me how I know ...!!

In your last picture ... where will the toilet roll holder go ..??? Bath under the window is fine . Shower needs to be wider than 700 as they feel cramped otherwise.

how long is a piece of string ..?? Water cylinder can be anywhere from 550x1300 to 700x1800 depending on size. Will also need an expansion vessel of 10%. Buffer could be anything from 500x500 upwards but can be wall mounted (and go above the DHW cylinder with careful planning.) Rainwater you never store in a warm space - either outside, underground or in a cold attic. MVHR goes from 600x600x300 wall mounted up to a semi commercial unit taking up 1200x 1000x400 Not sure what you mean by forced air as that would be air conditioning and they are best mounted in ceiling voids if it’s a ducted unit. Boiler is pointless - even at -10c an ASHP keeps going, you just run it for longer. I’ve got a 300 litre cylinder, 65 litre buffer, all expansion vessels and all controls and UFH and DHW manifolds in a space 800x1700.... and you can still walk into it ..! It is about planning.

Yeh you won’t see many about as they have no outriggers and a nasty habit of falling over ... Not sure it would meet modern safety standards with the cage as you essentially have to get out through the booms but I’m sure if you’re steady and don’t try doing too much it should be ok ...

@zoothorn you don’t need to use a powered saw of any type. You have about 20 cuts to do, use a handsaw, do it outside, and you will be fine. Keep it simple

That could be challenge ...

ok so... are you saying you have a clear window installed, or no window on the plans and you’ve installed an opaque window ..??

No because the scrubbers / filters that are fitted are taking 99.99% of the particulates out along with the NOx

But that is a lot of the issue ..!! Treated timber and other things such as pallets are a massive issue. As is unseasoned wet wood. A lot of people buy them and have very little knowledge about how to light them and run them - and that causes the most of the smoke issues.

Electric Meter with CU in the garage would be ok but remember the CU now needs to be at 1400mm or so and you can’t hide them at high level.

Something like this would give you more open space I’ve just lashed it together on Pears Stairs btw so don’t get too critical ..!!

Why not put both the gas and electric meter under the stairs ..?? Gas can be in a ground meter box like this one if they really insist.

The emissions from those is insignificant compared to vehicle emissions in built up areas.