PeterW

This one is 299mm and 20 way https://www.consumerunitworld.co.uk/hager-vml11010-duplex-1010-way-stacked-consumer-unit-2431-p.asp

It’s also probably worth getting the whole floor validated as I’ve done a couple with Wolf system joists and whilst the standard beam calcs are correct, once you glue the board to the top chord you reduce deflection further. Worth bearing in mind that if you don’t secure the end bearing points properly you will get more deflection as the bottom chord moves - this needs to be tightly restrained.

Aico smoke alarms are the best.

Yes the one you linked

LAP dimmer will work.

This is the adjuster - you need a thin 10/12mm spanner. Cheap cycle spanner will help.

Ask them for a copy of the wayleave they have to run wires over your land ....

Draw two lines ... one to show the depth and show it’s inserted correctly, and another to show the alignment between the parts

Speak to the merchant - it’s normally pretty good quality.

So when you get them factory painted they tend to prime and paint using spray so the finish is better, plus they also tend to paint prior to any glazing so you don’t get any unpainted areas that can rot. They also tend to apply multiple coats so it is more expensive.

Fully galvanised and painted they don’t really get any exposure. If in doubt I would always go HD or XD anyway for the extra £20 each.

£35 cheaper https://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-21-module-12-way-populated-high-integrity-dual-rcd-consumer-unit/9305p

Firstly I’m not sure about that layout as it’s not easy to see where the main entrance is, and having bedrooms off kitchens isn’t ideal. It is also a large galley kitchen for what is a very small house - do you have planning permission yet ..? Adding some sort of circulation space may reduce your costs here if you make it squarer than it is now. For sound, it depends where you are and the sound levels. Timber frame with pumped cellulose is very good at stopping sound from external sources, coupled with decent triple or acoustic glazing and you will have warmth and sound reduction. Internally you can “airlock” pairs of doors so you don’t get sound travelling through a single door, but that all relies on the doors being closed !! Having them at 90 degrees to each other also helps, as does a soft panel / material to absorb sound in a corridor.

Agila is a bit overkill for a workshop floor - ring round and see who does a pump grade concrete and just get it with a decent slump and it will flow. I’ve found a local supplier who can do a self compacting concrete for about £110/CuM with fibers which is about £45 less than the big providers. Pays to ring around.

Size up to the next 50mm usually so as @bassanclan says it would be a 1500mm for the windows, 2100mm for the French doors. Don’t forget your cavity trays and weep vents on all of them too. You also need to look at the bearing load on them too - if you’ve got less than 2 full block courses on the inner leaf before a floor or ceiling joist point load then consider going to heavy duty lintels to stop any cracking or bending. Not much more expensive but certainly worth the peace of mind.

Yes as it will require a fairly big opening - 16 way CU is 500mm wide and you need clearance all round. That’s a 600mm opening minimum. How are you planning on mounting it in the opening as I’m sure they need to be mounted on a non-combustible surface now. And why recessed ..? @ProDave - thoughts ..? 18th Edition have anything to say about it ..?

PlusNet will move you to a lower rate when asked - don’t even need to change then as it’s a retention complaint ...

It could be older stock (70mm is an odd thickness) and that’s shrinkage as the foam ages. If it’s for a floor then I would ask the supplier to give a discount and spend the money on some low expansion foam and a decent gun, and you will be fine.

Tiles may not be nailed depending on age - you may find you can push one or two up and then walk up the holes. Verges will be nailed, last couple of rows before the ridge should be too. Worth changing to a dry fit ridge system if you’re doing a roof as they are more secure than cementing them on.

Standard ones are 150mm, so you could say they will be about £110/m or so

Slips or stools ..?? £80/m there or thereabouts

I use Warmstar on eBay for all the UFH mats - good value and they ship with a variety of different thermostats

by having it serviced ... insurance company may ask for the service history before they pay out too...

TPRVs can stick but will usually go at about 6 bar irrespective of the pressure setting. The bigger issue as Dave says is the expansion tanks, and also if the control set has been maintained to ensure the water pressure is below 3 bar. Also, what brand are they ..? And are they stainless ..?? When you say “split” then where is the tank failure ..?

@Russdl there is your answer ..! Thanks @nod