PeterW

Mixing valve is upside down. Sounds like the blender is mixing the wrong inputs

@MikeSharp01 I’ve seen very few of those in the wild ... that article is a couple of years old and they aren’t rolling out very quick. You may just be better with a £50 UPS and the router / switch etc plugged into it. Most alarms now have GSM modules too - much easier than using wired connections.

It’s usually 4 core and you can buy extension cables.

There is a third case where you do not need a test and that is for a conversion from an existing building.

So I challenge anyone to point and fill those joints to make it look as good as that without some serious practice ..! You won’t get a second chance at it, and it is not cheap to mess up.

so who is installing the slips ..?? That is a skilled job, and possibly more expensive to fix and point than laying bricks.

Hot wire won’t cut PIR as it won’t go through the foil. Bit of straight timber as a straight edge - floorboard or an offcut of a chipboard floor panel - and a new handsaw.

You’re probably going to find matching an existing Edwardian brick with a slip is going to be eye watering in price. Expect them to use a reclaim and cut two faces from it with about a 30% breakage rate so you’re in excess of £1.20 per brick. Add in a carrier system - probably custom made as it will be for imperial size bricks - and the glue / mortar and you’re at 3-4 times the price for building a brick skin from traditional reclaims. What is the reason for timber frame ..?

Use two layers (unless you’ve bought it already) and it’s easier to fit around wiring etc. 70mm is standard thickness board - Seconds & Co isn’t that far from you and they deliver and will be cheaper than the merchants.

Those tiles are as cheap as chips. Worth making sure the areas where it changes direction are insulated and preferably very solidly mounted as that is where you will get noise.

I prefer proper dormers and not ones that sit on the outer walls as they are a nightmare to build the cheeks for and not get cracks where the roof and walls touch. If you push them up the roof plane slightly then you get a clean gutter line.

You mean the holes in the sealant ..??

One will be using virgin plastic as it is a requirement for Potable water. The heating one may not be.

They recommend base coat tarmac for resin bonded for this reason. I thought the resin bound stuff wasn’t permeable so I’m now concerned ..!!

Up to 15mm then use something like a Weber Pro leveling compound - they are final wear surface and can be laid 3-15mm thick

suggest you check your source on this as JSP456 clearly states that deep fat fryers should only be drained as part of the state 1 readiness for action ... otherwise they are used daily.

Yep as long as it’s installed correctly you’re good to go - photos are always worth keeping.

So ... Southern Waters responsibility ends at the meter point ..! There should be a stop valve next to the meter to isolate the supply and then it’s a case of find the pipe and expose it, cut it with decent shears and then connect your new pipe to it. Make sure it’s 750mm down and follows the correct route into the house and all is fine.

Don’t the doors have to be self closing on a consumer unit now ..? Surely vertical mounting will mean it no longer closes correctly..??

Have you used the Weber 4610 Pro Top..? Thinking of leveling a garage with it as you can use as the wearing surface. Seems to be about £21 a bag inc VAT so much cheaper than epoxy.

Consider using something like the Tetris floor system then put 200mm of reinforced concrete on the top. Could always have a cheap ASHP feeding some heating loops too so that you can keep warm kneeling on the floor ...... Not sure the 2 post can be fitted to a beam and block floor though - may have to put pads below to take the loads.

Pretty sure the angled cover on the top of your Clearview stove has a flat plate under it - you may be able to get it removed if you wanted the flat version.

Contractor all risk only really covers them for work on site when they are there - if the structure falls down in the night due to high winds (ask @AnonymousBosch about this ...) then his insurer won’t cover you. He would need to take out a works in progress extension to cover it, and that would be probably the same price as you taking self build insurance. It will be £5-700 but in the event of an issue you will be thankful you did.

You mean can the switch feed be from one circuit ..? Are they switched with 5v,12v or 230v..?

253mm is fine - See below 5700 PS-10 253 400 122 11.97 That is a total span inc end bearing of 100mm each plus your span and it’s a 253 at 400 centres with 122mm chords and less than 12mm deflection - make sure you put the strongbacks in, and glue down the egger boards and that is not going to move.