PeterW

That’s very thin. What is the proposed floor finish ..? You could go 100mm insulation with one of the thin UFH board systems like the one from Wunda at 22mm on top, so your less than the 135mm and substantially better heat retention with a smaller loss of heat store from a screed.

Geberit MIs give you all the measurements to fit

Looks like you’ve got the wrong bottle trap - that’s a 40mm and basin sinks use 32mm. Can use an adapter to take it to 40mm where required.

Ok. IC - inspection chamber If the existing toilet is where you say it is, then the waste is coming straight through that wall and joining underground with a Y or T into the main run. I would look where the toilet is now, measure it onto the wall outside and start digging down - I think you’ll find the pipe on that wall where you have drawn. And you do know this is all notifiable to Building Control ..???

Screwfix own brand and a no quibble 3 year warranty. They just need adjusting to be square.

That doesn’t make sense .... You are flushing the toilet but it’s not coming through that manhole ..? If that is the case, you have a good chance there is a further pipe running at 45 degrees to the house and joining further along. My guess would be that could well be a rainwater sewer and if you pour a bucket down the gully that your red line goes through it will come down that pipe. Can’t connect a toilet to that.

Two lengths of waste pipe and roll it

The small Evo only does 210mm ..?

250mm is a big ask unless it’s a sliding mitre saw - would need a 330mm blade on a standard chop saw. May be better to buy a decent aluminum square and a couple of clamps and use a standard circular saw. Will get you just as square for £10

wonder why it’s not into the drain then ..? What’s the other drain pipe for..? Wash back ..??

Could be a pressure relief overflow

Work of the devil ..!! ? Had one fitted by a ground worker who didn’t mark the pipe and it was on by about 2mm... one knock and it was off again and a trench full of lovely stinky water ...

Not if it is done using Tracpipe as that is what it designed for.

Bottom up

And if it is an RM78, just inset it jnto your block work courses so it will move back by 100mm then build with concrete bricks to make back up to a full block.

if you’ve not already purchased, go for a 200mm internal diameter flue. Bends are fine - use 45 or 22.5 degree not 90, and make them nice and slow and no more than two 45 in the whole of the run. I wouldn’t use Leca- it’s an expensive option for this sort of thing and vermiculite works fine.

Check the Dunbrik website but when I did the last one we used 600mm sections and glued them together with the adhesive (lip down) and then as we went we used an 8:1 mix of vermiculite and OPC mixed in a barrow with a splash of water. The trick is to ensure your throat / support is built first and has properly gone off, put the next length of liner and then brace that, fill with the insulation mix and leave to set for a couple of days (a good job for a Friday) then you are inserting liners into a solid base and they don’t move.

Yes that is how you normally do it... assuming you use a Wago or similar connector. Alternative is that you put an adaptable box on the outside and terminate in that - can be sometimes easier.

You may get 5 degrees overall but you need to make sure it is not too far out as the seals / tolerances on decent fittings can be pretty tight. Also worth ensuring you use decent silicone lubricant - not expensive and much better than washing up liquid especially if you want to split joints or adjust them after fitting as washing up liquid dries very quickly.

What I would do is use two different light sources. I would use spot / panel task lighting at a 6000k setting for the day, fitted to give coverage across the work area, and then use a 2500/3000k LED strip in a cove trim/cover around the edge of the area to give a low level light for late evening. Neither are expensive, and both are easily controlled.

It it is this wet then I would look at a timber crib that is stepped at 30 degrees and gravel filled. It will become self draining and as long as it’s not above about 4 ft tall will be pretty stable

I would be putting a perforated pipe wrapped in geotex and 20mm gravel behind the wall - it will be 150mm wide at most and can sit on top of your founds if needed. Concrete will art under water - if it is readymix then it will just displace the water, you could always ask for a rapid mix. I would also use shuttering your lift the level of the foundation edges slightly. Need to see a photo if possible.

Are there fire escape windows on the firsts floor to all habitable rooms. ..? If yes, then you don’t need fire doors in a 2 storey building.

+1 to this. If you’ve got the plastic coated builders band then all the better

You can foil any of it . Have you left the old wall exposed ..? That may be a candidate for insulation backed plasterboard to stop any cold bridging from the exposed areas.