PeterW

No - it’s 38mm PVC or fiberglass depending on the DNO

You shouldn’t need to but I assume PVA @nod have you had to skim Fermacell..???

Who owns the company ..?? You potentially have a plot worth nothing, as the land has no access.... Unless you have a right to access the plot in perpetuity, with no restrictions or covenants then you own nothing ... that has to be in the deeds for your house/plot and not at the whim of a company. That is what you need to sort first, or you won’t get any mortgage company to touch it as it is effectively land locked. I know this is family / friends etc but you need a good solicitor before you need an accountant. Each plot needs to buy a 1/5th share of the road “company” with access and the land ownership fully marked out on the deeds for each, and have the granted right of access. Also, what is the agreement for upkeep ..? You could land yourself a bill for £££ a month for upkeep of the shared areas, and there is nothing stopping the other 4 selling out to a company that will hike your service fees. I don’t want to put a damper on this, but I’ve seen this happen before, and my first rule is never do business with family or friends ... it ends in tears and legal bills ...

Do you know if this is via any type of REST API or some sort of query string ..? Just thinking you could use an RPi or similar to work out the heating algorithm for the next day @TerryE one for you..??

Use something like this in the bedroom https://www.ledkia.com/uk/buy-led-ceiling-lights-selectable-colour-temp/6630-round-6w-led-surface-panel-with-a-selectable-colour-temp-dimmable.html They have selectable temperature settings so you can make them warm or cool.

And you’ve definitely got a good connection to the brown wire ..?? Next stop is take off the cover on the wiring Centre ...

And is that with the heating on ..??

just push the multimeter pin inside the plastic from the top where the wires go in and the black one on the casing or the earth connector.

This is the correct replacement head if you want to replace the whole lot or if the gearing is mashed https://www.toolstation.com/corgi-replacement-actuator-for-motorised-valve/p38858

All the bit inside the steel box is the head. The motor is part of it, as is the microswitch etc The brass bit that it is mounted on is the valve.

You can but they take some work Isolate the power and clip the connections off for the motor - they have no polarity. Take the 2/3 screws out holding the motor to the body and withdraw it - the cam should stay in place but watch the return spring doesn’t come loose. Put the new motor in, screws into place and then use the manual lever to move it forward and let it return back under the spring. Connecting the wires either uses the crimps provided or a standard barrel crimp depending on the supplier.

Standard synchro unit - how handy are you as you can change the motors but full heads are easier.

Sounds like a dead head - easily changed. Got any photos of the clips holding it on or the manufacturer name on it.?

Not a house ... beams aren’t big enough and their screw piles are really low rated.

Unlikely. From memory the boards have a number of fuses to stop that sort of thing happening, wouldn’t be the first time though I’ve seen one wired wrong ... And sorry if I sound negative but I find Heatmiser to be expensive rubbish that us usually has to be ripped out when one component goes wrong as the units aren’t backward compatible more than 3-4 years.

@Declan52 what was the unit price or price / m2 for those ..?

That’s my picture @joe90..!! ?

TBH unless you end up with a very cold snap below -10c for an extended period with the ASHP off then you’ll not really need a very strong solution but at about £5/litre it can soon add on a fair amount if you have to fill all the loops plus a 60 litre buffer at 25%.

Reason for using a coil in the buffer is that you only need antifreeze in the ASHP circuit and not the whole system so can reduce cost.

Air bricks should have telescopic sleeves and DPC should be taped around them if it’s a cavity tray setup. You need to check the BBA certificate for your bead supplier too to ensure it’s certified for below DPC use. In your situation there is no real benefit of insulation below the beam level anyway so you may just be better using weak mix.

I really like these - could soon diy one with some 50mm pipe https://www.supragarden.com

Firstly the EPS has a higher compressive strength which is useful below ground as you will need to compact a lot of hardcore inside the walls and not having anything in the cavity may mean the block work will move. Secondly, blowing beads into the lower cavity below the tray may cause problems for the contractor as they won’t be able to drill properly due to the trays. You’re basically going to be making openings for water to get into as they would have to be done from the outside.

Duct the CAT6 but you could just Use cheap 25mm rigid conduit or even 32mm waste pipe but run a pair of CAT6 just in case ....

nope missing a layer of OSB..! OSB > Joists (with insulation) > OSB > Battens and pug mix > DPC > Floor finish Top finish could be engineered wood or 9mm tile backer plus tiles.

@sw879 the reason you can’t find one is that’s a custom unit...! BPT make gate systems, look to the right and there is a black box over the gate latch that is released electronically. The angled panel in the top is a pretty standard BPT Came video panel, probably an MKR VC range custom unit - they are modular so you can add any module including key pads or video cameras etc. Examples here The bottom box looks like a welded steel box that probably just has a door in the back and the letter plate in the front. You could probably do the same with a Videx 8000 unit and customize the panels - do you want GSM phone and video alerting when you’re not at home ..?? You will struggle to get change from £6-800 for the panel and then probably £2-300 of custom steelwork to create the box.