Onoff

Not a f***ing Scooby Doo mate! ME a tiler! ?

Sounds a good size place. The thread before yours in this section has @zoothorn looking at digging up his concrete floor in his old stone cottage and building back up an insulated floor with UFH. I've done similar in my bathroom and some key pics are there. That's one option for you with the added benefit that once the timber floors are gone the "digging" will be done. There's other options of course. @Ferdinand with his Little Brown Bungalow thread I think insulated an existing suspended floor. That didn't have UFH but there are options to incorporate UFH pipes in special grooved floor boards, aluminium spreader plates etc.

You need to consider whether this is your "forever" house and if not whether the improvements to a period place will increase it's value when you want to sell. You can do too much. Of course if you can do the work yourselves then that might make the sums add up.

The old Victorian terraces in my experience (I have a couple circa 1860) were built draughty by design. Key features were: - Suspended wooden floors with air bricks. Basically timber joists on brick dwarf walls. A big void often down to the "dirt". This allowed good, cross ventilation, front to back that kept the floor joists from rotting. - Solid brick walls with a slate damp course - Lime mortar - Lath and plaster ceilings & sometimes walls - Horse hair plaster again with a high lime content. - Proper timber floor boards with the gaps plugged with hemp string. Kept the major draughts out but still allowed plenty of ventilation. - Open chimneys. Again a good ventilation route. - Wooden windows, very air leaky. - Timber lintels Modern faux pas are: - to fit double glazing with no trickle vents. - to block up the air bricks - to block up the chimney - to render over the slate damp course - to bring the ground level up over the damp course - to put an extension on the back / porch on the front covering the air bricks / damp course. These old houses are meant to breathe to stay dry and mould free. You can as John alludes to "upgrade" the place but must pay very close attention to ventilation.

I give up.

You might want to edit your post as the op has now moved her questions to the appropriate forum section.

A bit more awake now! I'd edit your post quick. Leave the intro and cut and paste the specific questions into the Heat Insulation sub forum. The answers and suggestions will come thick and fast!

Mixing grout..... Can't remember how I mixed it for the floor. I think I used the mixing paddle in the drill: My blue one has seen some service from mixing plaster and latterly the tile adhesive. Consequently it's looking a bit tired but the main worry is that the paint is coming off and there's some dried tile adhesive on it: I could clean it fully I guess with some Disclean etc but just worried I might end up with blue paint flecks in my white grout!

Welcome, you've got some work to do there! The clever, awake people will be along shortly.

I know! Not going to happen. He's back for 2 weeks at uni for exams then has a dead week when he might come back just for a sh!t, shave 'n shower!

Lying in the bath with a beer listening to Deadmau5's Strobe just letting it build! OK I'm fully clothed and I daren't pan down for all the crap but it's going to be pucker when done. Couldn't resist getting the lights in. Comment from a mate: "It’s not like a blacklight and shows all the stains does it? ?"

Welcome. Make sure the capacitors are motor rated.

Made my guts turn over that first picture.

Soil pipe chamfering tool. About £40 upwards.

How about this? https://www.xtra-sense.co.uk/products/merlin-mains-signalling/merlin-eco-remote-switching-system/

Old empty mastic tube. Dip open end in water that has a dash of Fairy. Squeeze end together and tidy up silicone bead. Gives a perfect slightly concave finish and the excess collects in the tube.

Multitool works better than a padsaw imo for cutting into an already skimmed wall if retro fitting. You can get it dead neat. Treating the edges of the cut hole with neat pva keeps it all together too.

Love that front door.

Tbh you won't know until you do a test hole imo. You could hit rock! Other than that you need to decide the floor area, what floor build up will dictate the depth. Look to incorporate UFH pipes even if connecting them up to something is a job for later.

If he reads this site he'll know already!

Think the first clay pipe I had to concrete over I encased in pea shingle wrapped in bulding fabric...

Slapped and I mean slapped 10 random cuts on last night. Was knackered and it was all a bit "That's up high, that'll be hidden by the basin / behind architrave". Left the highly visible shelf ones until I'm awake!

Water regs see 2.7: http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1999/1148/schedule/2/made

Pretty sure they have stated elsewhere that some sort of pv utilisation upgrade / fix is imminent.

21 tiles to lay. 8 cut to be laid + 13 yet to be cut. Also 6 pi$$y, equal width strips under here, maybe 12 if I decide to do the blue tanked bit as well.