Onoff

Mulling over doing the boxing in two "horseshoe" shaped sections, bolted together.....

The photo in post #26. Cheers.

I had, over on eBuild photos of a Geberit wc wall frame all un-boxed and laid out on the floor showing all the components. Just tried to retrieve it but "don't have permission" to download or even see the picture despite signing in.

So once you finish your build, what happens thereafter can the ecologists turn up for a visit to check you've not blocked up the holes and turfed out the bats? Same with newts etc?

Just edited my earlier post. I can't do the tiling first and drop the bath into the hole. The jet pipes along the side are the same width as the bath! EDIT: Seriously, ordinary silicon to fix the tiles then the grout? Reckon I could do the first half against the wall and tile it then the second half. A plan is forming.....

Cheers for the encouragement! I tend to use this waterproof glue now for everything, dirt cheap and seems to do the job, if anything better (for bathrooms) anyone then please shout. Every 50/60mm??? I've just been marking out at 200mm ctrs.....best get some more screws! http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p61864?table=no Once I'm happy with the fit of all the framework then I will indeed glue the granny out of it. Presumably using st/st screws would be going over the top? I'm going to have to have an unglued joint somewhere to enable removal of the bath if ever it leaks. IMHO there's too many lights, jet nozzles etc to think that at some point down the line in won't leak somewhere. Same goes for access to the tap connections (see other thread) if I put them "wall" side. To get the bath in I have to first screw the wall side ply on, manhandle the bath in sideways then drop it into the recess. Only then can the other half of the ply and frame be fitted. You can see the gap,pre pushing together between the two halves of the ply deck: I'm tempted to have a test fill of the bath (via a hose) in the very near future to see what happens "sinkage" wise. As the bath sits in a recessed 3/4" marine ply box with no tangs out into the slab, just a bit worried as to whether with the weight of all that water it'll push the ply box down into the PIR underneath. I had to knock out and add the chamfer (dark grey concrete) post paying the floor to give me any chance of getting my arm under to reach the trap. On temporary packs at the moment but nigh on there. Add 10mm I think: Before it all gets finally fixed the ply recess will get a sand and varnish and the concrete under the bath a coat of grey floor paint. Just like the idea of someone looking in there in years to come and saying "Proper job!".

Geberit do a 90/110mm adapter I know.

Figured start a new thread on this as it's a bit removed from "flexible tap connectors" and can stand alone So I'm boxing the bath in. Just doing what I can until I decide what way around the bath is going etc. It's a timber frame all screwed together so easy enough to dismantle. Decided to taper the long bath side so when you stand close your toes will be sort of under and you'll be a couple of inches closer. It'll be tiles atop the 3/4" ply that the bath sits on. Up the side (tiled again) I was going to do 12mm ply - shown here with a bit of 12.5mm plasterboard. First time doing anything this complex so just seeing if I'm on the right track. Only ever fitted a ready made acrylic panel or a bit of painted ply: (Got to shim up the faces of the central two tapered pieces with some thin ply to bring them level). Presume I can just tile over this detail?

Dare say you'll have the camera running. You & anything involving chocolate, ice or whipped cream all at 1080P....No ta! EDIT: Mind you I did film our second one being born.

I see this then think of the time, money & effort I've wasted rebuilding a poxy 10'x8' shed that I got for free trying to make it into something it'll never be! No plan or forethought really, too small, in the wrong position in the garden & just made it up as I went along. Have ended up with something far too small with various issues. My only defence is that when I started it I hadn't discovered eBuild! But threads like this are a great incentive to get it right next time. I do think though it needs one of these stencilled on the gable end: Where btw do they get in?

Good to know. I can keep my Bluebird then! Only reason it short cycles at the moment is that everywhere in the house leaks heat like a sieve!

Before I found the previous forum I hadn't even heard of air tightness! I'd chosen the Aurora downlighters I WAS going to have. It was so simple. .....And now I'm into worrying about penetrating the VCL etc

As of 5 minutes ago after discussing the issues with madam we're thinking: - Turn the bath through 180 degrees which will put the taps the side you get in. That will of course mean it's a bit wider to get over the bit where the taps project. But, we don't want high taps to have to swing your legs over, especially when we're older. Neither does she like the "piddly" little taps you get with bath fillers. So: - Cap the tap holes off with some quality chrome blanks (if such a thing exits) the holes are about 36-37mm dia and the fibreglass there looks about 8mm thick. Or maybe even a couple of low voltage "mood" lights? - Find a combined filler/overflow preferably at a decent price as I'm getting grief over all the bits bought and that we won't now use (like the bath taps). I assume you can get one where you turn/push the filler itself to get the water to flow? This will, combined; put the tap/filler pipework the accessible side of the bath (removable panel etc). I can still just get to the trap from this side thanks to the chamfer I put in the floor recess. (Just have to put up with the fibreglass splinters when I get my arm under there). On the plus side it would put the trap on the accessible side. Will have to hack out the slab carefully for the pump motor bracket if I turn the bath round but if I'm careful should be OK as I've enough coverage above the UFH pipes there. Just as I was finishing typing this I read Nick's two last posts.....

Thanks, I'd forgotten about that as an option! Still got the pita of getting to the "tap" connections if they leak or to replace once it's all in though. Picked at random but that downward pointing tube on some of these looks ideally positioned to catch your knee etc: http://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/Ultra_Quest_Bath_Filler_Side_Valves_Chrome.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=Shopping&gclid=CPnWso23gc0CFRYTGwodCHYM1w Really got to decide on these pipes asap to move on. With hindsight I might even have cut a big square access "hatch" through the cavity wall behind but then that would have meant major disruption to the adjacent room, removal of bookcases etc.

Better shot of the taps.The CT1 and Multisolve are sitting on the recessed shelf to simulate where the wine glass will go:

Climbing wall's going on the left. Planning to extend out the back to give covered storage for the ride on mower. Possibly then will double the tree house size to 3mx3m plus the balcony. Storage sheds underneath etc.

We've also got pipistrelles around here and the damn great big one about the size of a flying cat! Noctule bat I think. From what I've read they're supposed to have a wingspan of about 400mm but I reckon ours are bigger. Had them fly past me at eye level when I've been standing on a high bank - thought it was our tabby!

Can you believe I started this on the other forum? It was daiking's thread with his pristine, kid's play area gave me the kick today to get out and do something on it. Was just four 100x100mm posts originally for my lad when he was little. The youngest, (a girl) wanted more room, a roof a balcony etc.....no idea where she gets that from. The spiral stairs were my idea. Just getting round to concreting in two extra galv steel brackets I had my fabricator make up. Well, dug the holes, drilled the posts & tomorrow's another day! BUT.....I've taken so long we've got squatters (last year it was wasps):

Bats? Found this poor little beggar yesterday. On the ground under the neighbour's barn gable. Mark on it's side. Thinking maybe the cats are taking a swipe as they leave the roost:

Or get a couple of mates over and fire up the barbie. "You do bricks, you do timber, I'll do steel" sort of thing. Fuelled by a £10 for 20 cans offer (or two) and you'll have it done in no time. Have a plan and a designated space for things to go to. Yes you might stash the rubble under the deck later but will having it there whilst you do the decking get in the way of that etc.

I knew it was you from the title daiking! When I read your posts it's like a parallel life. I'm lucky in that I've half an acre to distribute the cr@p though. I tend to try and put wood, hardcore, top soil in their own "area". Yours will look great when it's done I'm sure. Always remember that it's cheaper than gym membership!

I used to muck around with building all sorts of receivers and transmitters. Back when it was all Denco coils and Jackson variable capacitors. I've built all sorts of aerials too from Yagis to corner and trough reflectors. Even had a bit of correspondence with Joseph J Carr. Do you need new ropes for the winch? What size as I've just got a load of 6mm galvanised.

We've done something similar a few years ago to that sketch when fitting roof top safety lines albeit down to a concrete roof. Will try and get a drawing out of our archive.

Fair enough. Our kids just stuck magnetic shapes and letters on the wall. (We did another section in blackboard paint).

With hindsight I might have ordered the bath without the tap holes drilled in and had a wall mounted bath filler something like this: I don't think I could live with blanking off the existing tap holes either and going wall mounted. Half toyed with having a wall mounted tap and fitting a couple of waterproof lights in the tap holes. Might look a bit naff though? Where the drill is and the UFH sensor pipe will be a boxed in "riser". You can just see the pump motor behind: Did consider rotating the bath 180deg and having the taps on the outside but we don't want that. I'd also have to cut a slot in the slab for the pump motor bracket and then I'd hit the UFH pipes. Access as it is is v.tight to get to the pump / motor so if there's any issue the bath'll have to come out anyway. Then I'll be glad of the flexibles. Just to complicate things (), on the outside edges of the bath I'm considering raking the timber frame back so the tiled sides are at an angle. Back to the piping issue. This is looking along from where the pipes come down from the wall: It's all a bit tight and there is no way I'll be able to get to these connections once the bath is in: