Onoff

Probably didn't allow for the cill when measuring. Cavity wall? The wind will be howling in there and escaping through every gap. Foam that lower gap inside (dampen first), cut flush then silicone over. You can work silicone grease into perished rubbers that might help too. You're on a loser taso some extent as the window is set so far out beyond the cavity. Been there / done that / living it:

When you see the speed at which window fitters put them in... Combine that with the fact the DG company "surveyors" no doubt allow for massive clearances. One of mine: I'd hazard a guess most original timber windows are better sealed around the frame as they get mortared in as the walls go up.

I am guessing you have white trim pieces up the sides and across the top where the frame meets the wall. Will probably have been stuck on with mitre bond. These will have had a silicone bead run up them after fitting. Unfortunately the fitters have likely just whacked the windows in with frame fixings and packs and not bothered to use low expansion foam or Compriband around the frame. Most of my 2G windows are the same. I'm addressing as I go along. In your case it looks like like there was a cock up with the height so they've chucked a bit of 4"x2" in and rendered over it. At the very least they should have stapled some expanding metal on it. I'd take the rest of that render off. Use a plant sprayer over all the gaps to wet them then get a low expansion foam in there. To make pretty ideally screw some st/st expanded metal to the timber and render over. Won't help with any cold bridging but should stop draughts. Alternatively screw a strip of upvc over it and silicone round the edges. In my bathroom there was a 1" gap between top of new window and lintel all covered over by trim! You'll still have I bet huge gaps up the sides. You could take the trim off and repeat the exercise then fit new trim.

He doesn't have to buy oil any more. That's £2k p.a. on fine wine & cheese!

All that good living!

You can get waterproof PVA as I said above. Why not floor paint? My double garage had never been worked in just used as a store so when we bought the place I Hoovered the concrete floor and tipped all the collected half tins of grey scrounged from sites etc into an old 5 gal fermenting him. Applied with an old broom head. I'll never match the grey again but it looks good.

Think it's @nod that favours SBR as a primer? As an aside, with my Aqua Seal tanking kit, it says if you run out of the Aqua Seal primer then use SBR.

I had the dust problem so I gave the bathroom floor a coat of SBR diluted down. Lasted me well until I was ready to tile the floor. I chose SBR over PVA as I've read any water getting under tiles later on can lift PVA. I know you can get waterproof PVA but SBR is a darn sight cheaper. Cementone was the brand I used from S'fix I think it was.

Seems strange to see words in print that I'll never utter!

I think I might have gout...

"Gouting" ?

Typo? Just do it as Nick might say!

Like when I asked about plastering my own walls & ceiling on the plasterer's forum no doubt! "Get a proper spread in / you'll cock it up etc!" THAT in fact went alright.

Blame @Tennentslager for putting the idea into my head! Tbh nobody has answered him as to whether it can be done with a "mastic gun".

@Nickfromwales, probably a huge no no to the experts but is there any merit it trying to use the gun in the link above to apply tile grout? It'd certainly force loads into the gaps but would it "ram" it in like you could with a proper rubber grout float?

Going to try 3 down the side and one on the end. I can always add more. Cheers.

I hear you both! It was done initially as the removeable ply panel halfway along is only one tile wide. It has one full and one cut tile bonded to it. I could have centred the tiles with the rest and had two full and two cut tiles on the removeable panel. I felt that would make for a fragile removeable piece with overhanging, unsupported tiles once removed. The main reason for it though is both SWMBO and I would rather look at full or near full width tiles. Centred and we'd have had thinner vertical tiles each end; by the wall and the mitred corner. Really doesn't bother us. Beauty is in the eye etc. Sit on the wc if you really want to stare at it full on! (That is when the wc is finally fitted...).

If it works for you etc! I doubt any chop saw maker would recommend chopping firewood with it though. Lumping logs onto the bed will knock it out of adjustment I imagine. Cutting wet wood will put more strain on the motor too. I think too that by cutting thicker diameter logs you probably have to rotate them to get through it? That'll put lateral strain on the blade and bearings over time. My chippy mate would have kittens.

I'm thinking a video of me in the bath and then a FINISHED sign rises slowly out of the bubbles.....

My early concept CAD:

Standing on the bath surround. Tbh it'd take a few minutes to clear the buckets, tools and tat on the window cill. We're a little way off of the unveiling shots though!

With the Rage 3 I can lay a STEEL scaffold pole on the cutting bed alongside a piece of 4"x2" timber and it'll cut through BOTH. It's more for building sheds and stud walls though than fine cabinet making. Lacks repeatability too I find but good for "rougher" work.

Toupret filler is magic imo but expensive. It doesn't shrink or slump. Make sure you sand off the wispy bits where you've countersunk the holes. You can do good things with MDF. I always use MDF primer before painting. Made this from some scrap cover boards from the local wood yard: Back to chop saws...The Erbauer is pretty low down the food chain. I tried cutting a through housing with my Rage Evolution 3. No proper depth stop and quite springy. Bottom of the housing was like a set of stairs! Back to the Dewalt radial arm saw! (Reminds me I must replace the capacitor in the saw that I borrowed for the gennie).

Tbh that really doesn't look that bad. At this stage I would I think back off the screws and get those mitred faces pushed together and glued and pinned. Wipe off the excess glue. That will of course leave a gap to the wall. Fill with decorators caulk and smooth level with the skirting.

Cheapo chop saws are useless for accurate skirting imo. The Evolution Rage I have is crap for it. A decent big Dewalt is the kiddie for this job. I HATE doing skirting.