Simplysimon

hi folks, having never fitted a low threshold door, what is the best height especially as the floor finish is, as yet, unknown. i don't want to put it to a height then try to fit eg. wooden flooring, only to find it's coming above the level of the threshold. what height do housebuilders allow? cheers

the thing you will need to decide whether sips or tf, then if tf, the construction method. i'm building tf though i beam and will need to batten the roof for slate. if normal tf then sark it and slate onto it, with membrane of course.

@ProDave i would suggest in both mitre pics you scribe the sqaure cut which abuts the door frame first, you then have two options. 1 if the corner is square and you have a combination square, use that as your cutting guide, holding the saw tight to it and sawing along it. mark where the other section of timber bisects at the inner corner and that is your start point for the cut. using the combination square and saw, cut through the mould onto the face, square a line from the inner edge of the saw cut and continue cutting. do the same on the opposite piece and plane with a razor sharp finely set blockplane and use the plane slowly, you can't blockplane quickly and accurately. 2 if the corner is not square this shoudn't be an issue unless you have obtuse angle walls (deliberately). mark inside and outside edge points to bisect the angle and saw between the two points by eye as for the previous to cut through the mould and then continue as above. as for internal butt and scribes (the correct method) the same process is adopted as with @Oz07, however, i would stop cutting again after the mould as it's easier to cut square as opposed to 45deg. back bevel the cut to ensure the front edge hits before the back.

i'm not having fascias at all, cuts out any issues. you could if you wished use accoya or medite extreme mdf as these will give you many years use without maintenabce, price is a consideration though.

dig a couple of deep ruts, run it in to them and it won't be so high

start looking to buy second hand, gumtree, ebay and facebook are your friends now, well, will be in the future. ex display bathrooms and kitchens or places like kitchen exchange.

that'll help with my cpd, as if i need to make up hours with everything we do to our houses

trouble is, the Irish guy just loves bench seating

and unfortunately, there is your problem.

+1 to above, have you tried standing in a room with a 2.1m head height? with digging out you get to put in 200mm insulation plus screed and ufh and have more headroom

first backdoor transplant i've heard of ?

don't suppose davidhughes is the real name of an architect that once posted here ?

fit a modern indoor bathroom, put in heating and keep your backdoor warm ?

not much of a comparison when you own one of the items you are comparing the costs of. no brainer really, oil

i know what a trickle vent is, i teach the trade. i was wondering what a 'well designed trickle vent' is. as far as i'm concerned a trickle vent is just a draught at best and part of a problem in the future with better insulated houses with slightly better airtightness. dampness can be caused by the vapour in the property especially if it not being removed as people get fed up of the cold from vents and seal them shut. it really is counter intuitive to try to make a house airtight to keep the heat in, then open big holes in windows to admit fresh air but that's the cost cutting building trade for you. as an aside, caravan manufacturers changed the design of doors a few years ago. it was found they leaked, rather than fix the problem they drilled a hole in the floor and fitted a drip tray to the bottom of the door t allow the water to drain away. don't solve the problem, find a way round it as it's cheaper, madness.

we were specced kingspan and went with kooltherm from seconds and co. ours was under 100mm screed. got a good price, filled the shed for a while! if under screed, go with seconds

if you've bought a yard gulley, and it looks by the grating that you have, it's a bucket to catch the silt prior to it entering the pipework just seen them in upper middle of pic

what are they? does a trickle vent move the air where it is required to avoid the build up of condensation and therefore mould growth? mvhr supply is in the opposite corner to the extract and will move more air from across the room.

cat/dog sleeping areas

hi all, there is an inomat render sprayer near me 2nd for sale, is it worth purchasing? will be getting someone to do the render.

3d print one?

i used propassive osb as my vapour layer

as i said, staggered by half a tile then no straight joint lines

would say it needs to be centre line due to width and cuts, diamond or staggered due to pan may help

hi and welcome @Scuba, architect and se would be sufficient, easy to have stick built by joiner.