Simplysimon

i've heard a steamers held on for a few minutes and it comes of like elastic. i sanded mine back and then put a heavy weight paper on to mask the minor imperfections.

prior to starting any work ?

polyripple, sold with no way to remove easily. replaster would be the easiest method to hide it. used to cover cracks cheaply.

have you priced alu clad? maintenance free though you are tied to the colour you choose.

most of us when younger would walk along a ridge or across unbraced joists and not think anything of it, however, as you get older and wiser you realise how much it would hurt if you fall and become a little more circumspect.

extending the slab by 3m isn't as easy as it sounds. you would have two slabs, what if one moves but the other doesn't. as @Russell griffiths says, get professional advice.

0.19W/mK against 0.047W/mK, i went with the marmox

as in piles? would you be enclosing the space as if not thefloor insulation would need to be increased.

possibly, it will be bridging the cavity

they would need a vent sleeve to bring air into the house, depending how this has been fited it may not be condensation but damp being pulled to inner leaf

could do with a bit more information. do you have suspended timber floors? is the house on a slope with the floor above vent? do the vents continue into the house? it also looks newer than the bricks

if it's at the top of a wall under the slates it will be a dentil

single skin brick hard plastered on inner face or lath and plaster?

with hydro you would also need an abstraction license

welcome to the club, as with the above, why contiguous piles? that must be quite expensive. that said they should be almost waterproof

presumably there will be a cavity between kit and brick which will be ventilated.

bought some kwikstage of a selfbuilder and his container had been placed next to a shed, when he was finished with it as storage he put the wood fired boiler in it and roofed over the shed and container. clad in the same material you didn't realise it was there until he opened a large door.

if they ain't red, they're rats

there is one about half way through, the whole thing is a bit of heavy reading, it is dependent as to whether automation of manufacture will happen.

i think you will have to go up to 300mm beams

glad to see someone who realises the Scots are generous, normally we're classed as tight gits ?

priorities all wrong, heated garage first then shed.

not sure that the rear has been rebuilt as the dentil returns round the corner.

so what's going on top of 3? the other option is to run a course of marmox, (other thermal break materials may be available), to break the cold bridge

do you have the depth to have a heavier section window installed as sash and case come in two basic sizes? if you are intending on staying for a long time in the property, then fitting accoya would be worth it due to the reductio in maintenance and longevity of the material.