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Simplysimon

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Everything posted by Simplysimon

  1. looks like the protection needed to hold a drop bear
  2. don't know wheher you've read this item, sounds as though it should be pertinent though
  3. https://www.nakedfloors.com/engineered-wood-flooring/narrow-oak/ searched for narrow oak boards and this was fifth and the second i looked at
  4. welcome to the forum, nice to see another close by
  5. hadn't considered a tilting fillet as i've not slated a roof on battens previously, i suppose it would work, the low pitch isn't an issue and that detail is appalling, for the sake of changing the angle of the fillet.
  6. cheers that may be very useful i'd thought of nu-lok as well, though is there not something about having to go and get the materials. do you not still have the same problem of wind getting under the slates so curious as to how you are minimising that issue or is it not an issue? have you counter battened the roof prior to fitting the strips?
  7. give the glazing company the inside/visible size and tell them to make the unit to suit
  8. the only consideration would be the need for insulation in the web under the soleplate to avoid cold bridging
  9. cheers, unfortunately it's the bit above the roofing membrane i'm looking at, when battened and counter battened there is a void which the wind will get under, great for ventilation, however, not so good for keeping slates in place.
  10. the vapour permeability of the outside sheeting material will depend upon the insulation used in the kit wall. with cellulose it will need something which has plenty of permeability, don't want soggy paper in the kit.
  11. hi folks, does anyone have a detail for an eaves details for counter and tile batten but without a fascia? i'm trying to get this into my head and am swithering between leaving it open with insect mesh for ventilation, however, worried about the slates lifting and closing it off but can't figure how to finish cutting around the gutter brackets. i'm looking at putting the slates on battens as opposed to nailing through the roof covering as it's not sarking (medite vent) and it doesn't take a nail well. cheers
  12. from outside in, timber cladding or render, 50mm cavity, pro200 breather paper, medite vent, i beam, medite propassive, 50mm service void and p/board
  13. 350 i beams with blown cellulose 50mm service void, u value 0.11
  14. do you have any small headed weans in the house likely to climb the stairs?
  15. a large utility with fancy units
  16. hi @Patrick, going by this site, https://www.metsawood.com/global/Tools/DoP/DOPOpenDocuments/DoP_MetsäWood_Birch_Plywood_PF_2019-12-2_en.pdfit states a vapour barrier can be used in the substrate. it does give a vapour permeability, however, i've no idea as to its effectiveness. they are useless for the outside as they definately won't be vapour open. you will need something akin to panelvent dwd, medite vent or egger dhf if you can get it. i went with medite in and out cheers
  17. if covered with breather paper it shouldn't matter whether waterproof or not, covering mine with mdf ?
  18. they work perfectly as long as there are no bubbles in the tube.
  19. alternative would be to use corrugated cement fibre roof, no drips and quieter when it rains
  20. definately easy enough, though had the brickie known, he would have built a one block thick wall instead of half where they joined at the ends to avoid staggering them, he couldn't understand why it wasn't a slab as he said it would have been cheaper.
  21. best practice places osb or ply on the top side of the insulation to help secure it. i wouldn't fit an external insulation layer without it and unless the felt is being fitted to a flat roof abutting a hose hair covered slated roof there is minimal risk of fire. i would these days, however, go with a monolayer rubber roof for ease of fixing and longevity.
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