Simplysimon

if you can cut steel with water, a gravel road doesn't pose too much of an issue to move around.

if it were timber windows, then dpc to protect them, pvc ain't gonna rot, nor soak up water. if you fix pvc windows as you detailed, into the external ingoe/reveal, there would be no dpc.

as per @joe90 fixing the windows to the rear of the outer leaf does two things, it allows for greater protection from rain, used to be a standard detail in scotland prior to better sealants, still a better detail. the other thing is that it allows you to hide some of the upvc thereby increasing the glazing area. you would also ba able to fix timber to the side of the window for a fiixng for plasterboard, no need for dpc either.

hi and welcome to the site, you own a bit of land and you decide on a price, as you are in scotland it could go to a closing date and find it's level or it could sit for years as overpriced. our plots were fixed price, they seemed good value as to position and size but were advettised as a completed house price and if you didn't look at that house price you wouldn't see the options to have part finished house or just buy the plot.

nope, jeremy

must be, haven't given walk on glazing away yet, still trying to sell it!

is the horizontal section the intake pipe? and as above as @ProDave says, dig into wall a bit to make connection to twin wall to keep single wall away from anything flammable.

i used thes guys http://www.meteorsoilsurveys.co.uk/index.html no connection other than a satisfied customer, didn't seem too expensive

yes, if necessary to give sufficient air flow sarking is treated and yes it does seem like a lot! as i have the same issues. insect mesh needed no matter what to close off cavity whilst still allowing air flow. will you have cavity outside walls?

it will still be a nailed direct job, just into battens as opposed to sarking, i have the same issue as i beam warm roof. had thought to clip them instead of nailing, biggest issue i have with slate on batten is someone going onto roof in future. must admit i hadn't thought to sark it, though would need to check whether 25mm would be sufficient or if would need to double counter batten.

does that give you calls or just data?

rubbish, new sill required for the case including new lower pulley stlile. may need a new bottom sash if that's shot as well. lost count of the number of sash and case repairs i've done. ask the right tradesmen and it will be repaired, those that won't probably can't.

remember as an apprentice guys were getting nailed through the hand to steels in glasgow, ahh the good old days

not yet, got a price for them and looking also at ssq domiz heavy

spot on, well done!

could you not do the collars traditionally

thanks folks, having lived in old properties with brick partitions and lathe and plaster and newer ones with studs, i'm aware of the marked difference and was trying to reduce noise. cheers

well folks, just wondering if anyone who has blown cellulose had it blown into the studwork as well. i know it's good for sound deadening but was wondering if it would be good to deaden the sound in the studs. had thought of 63mm cls with service cavity both sides. other option would be 89mm cls, services within studwork and still blown cellulose, any problems with wiring? the 63mm would therefore be air/cellulose/air so changing the soundwave as it moves through partition but the 89mm is a thicker wall, thoghts as to which would be better? cheers

his is off left, just out of shot ?

so that's us hit all three, north, east and i'm in south! welcome

know how he feels and the osteopath not yet working ?

lips are for kissing.........

@Russell griffiths same idea i had though without the three vertical timbers and taking the kit wall onto the blockwork. inner vertival binder would then attach to studs

that's not going to work, a big cold bridge at floor level. why is there edpm? i don't think it will meet regs for u value to start with. best case scenario would be to take kit to walls still with some insulation under, binder along inner wall and hang joists off that. i take it that there's currently a flat roof single extension and you're going two storey? if so, have you checked to see whether founds are up to it?

hi, the only problem with the pic above is the cold bridge from the inner and outer leaf. it would need some sort of insulation below the kit such as marmox or similar. then there is also the insulation required inbetween the joists, are you going for a suspended timber floor?