Simplysimon

need to do that, as apparently you can - ' Create a GUI interface that simulates the spread of an infectious disease throughout a population.' just what we need, - woohoohan

nobody to blame because he said, she said, they said, it's all ok

oooh err.....

is it really worth it? what is the cost of moving a wall 200mm?

one other thing we had against a gas combi boiler was the hot water runs, turn on the hot tap, wait, use, turn off tap. turn on hot tap, may get warm water then cold, finally hot.

don't allow the se to stagger the beams, put in a block thick wall to carry the ends of both beams it will save cutting a lot of blocks. for all the extra cost of founds and a block wall, i would also not span any more than 3m without a dwarf wall it's surprising how much bounce there is in them and that was with the beams doubled up. even with the concrete pourd on top if you jump there is slight movement.

all slabs should be insulated to meet regs. however, a pasive slab will have a greater amount of insulation below as well as to the sides to avoid cold bridging

stick a dry verge on it

when putting in new posts it was good to make up a shoe in lead to the depth of the concrete, silicone around the top edge to prevent water ingress and when required lift old post and replace, this would depend upon the number of posts. as suggested above wrapping and sealing in dpc/dpm would do a similar job.

if you have the time then you're not paying labour on the manufacture of the kit, what's the insulation?

and won't be able to span the full distance in future

standpipe near meter, then remove standpipe and connect meter to house. they don't bother up here, as long as where you're correctly connected to whatever you've specified the connection is going to, they're happy

what are you converting from, a standard large domestic property?

as a suggestion, only have a standpipe fitted. if you have a pipe from the house to the toby, they will check everything is compliant prior to making the connection to the main which i didn't realise, not that i was planning to do it incorrectly, but it meant more double check valves, taps and ensuring to correct depth prior to connection. if it had been to a standpipe it would have been quick and easy. if i had only specified to a standpipe they would have checked it was correct and not bothered with what i did, however, as i had specified connection to house and caravan this all had to be checked prior to connection.

i suppose it would need to be costed as to whether it's cheaper to replace with new roof lights or whether it would be possible/cheaper to increase the angle and keep existing windows

could we have a bit more detail as to what we're looking at?

tbh the laptop runs fine it is a few years old but it was well specced at the time, just had a new keyboard and battery. it was more that win 7 is no longer supported that i thought to update having followed this post. an ssd in the future would be the logical option

just to highjack this thread, running win 7 and this could be a realistic option to win 10. is it worth paying for the ultimate over the core? cheers

just because you ask a sensible question, does not automatically mean you will receive a sensible answer here ?

fit a door properly and leave it open when finished or if you've been married for 20+ it won't matter

downloads and opens in acrobat

what would the future use be, garage or accomodation? if accomodation it could be done later if eveything is there and you are only applying for a garage

make provision for both but wait until completed and signed off

nice and neatly done, i would say, to aid removal, a slight splay at the ends would help, as would oiling the timber and cable. used to be whale oil, stank to high heaven and there are less lethal oils on the market now.

nothing in NHBC, https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/6-superstructure-excluding-roofs/6-2-external-timber-framed-walls/6-2-4-load-bearing-walls/ 95mm galv nail gun nails would be fine