Russell griffiths

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I’m baffled by people’s thoughts that finding a system that according to the bloke selling it requires less bracing, is a good thing. Having worked on 3 different icf builds this year, I can without hesitation say that with any icf system you want lots of bracing, to believe a rep and use minimum bracing will end in a world of pain, on one build the wall moved in the pour ending with a wall with a 25mm bulge in it. bracing is good, not something to avoid to save a few hundred quid. Go and look at that job And You won’t ever want to look at a durisol block again.

I brought a second hand kitchen for £300 while we decided if we where going to knock down or not, still in use 5 years later and doesn’t look too shabby. Why waste £4-5000.

Don’t you use backer rod, this is a foam filler profile to fill large voids to allow a bit of movement. I would look at the instructions on the tanking system you will use.

If you want the look of aluminium but not the cost then go for steel, with a coating, I have greencoat from metal solutions in Bolton this is on my roof and I wish I had used it for facia as well. I can see me fitting it over my wooden facia in a few years time when I get fed up with staining it.

Have you thought of doing an air test before you go any further to try and find any poor areas. you can rig up your own if you are a bit handy.

Nudura have just done two in Stroud, 3 storey bottom storey walk out, all cut into a shale bank. talk to Icf supplies in Essex. steve Burgess they supplied it. I went there to watch a pour being done.

So why not start a new thread with your question.

You will probably have far more than 1 pipe exiting from your slab, remember you cannot tee into a pipe under your slab as you wouldn’t be able to show how you can clear a blockage. So you will probably have a few pipe exiting. The main thing is making sure you have the fall to the tank, you need a 1::40 fall to the tank from the house. You also don’t really want the tank in an area you will have vehicles, you can no problem but you will need extra concrete and stuff to protect the tank, so better in a grass area out of the way. Get your floor plan with every single waste water pipe marked on it, toilets showers, kitchen, bootroom, laundry. You can then have a bit more of an idea. getting the soakaway to work is a different matter and you will need to look into a percolation test, you will need this for the rainwater anyway.

Why would anybody consider beco. Have a really good look and tell us all the things it hasn’t got. That will help you decide. Durisol. Oh ffs just don’t. Do a search, this topic has been covered many times in the last year.

That’s what I meant really.

Mix up another load of slurry, pour it on and level it out, fit 90mm of insulation and don’t tell anybody.

Drainage Chanel at door, or French drain arrangements and gravel strip against house

Standard 4inch door hinge fitted internal to the box with pop rivets instead of screws. Maybe ????

At the hut end you need a bit of imagination. I actually have a holiday cabin mounted on blocks above the ground, so similar to your hut, the pipe will come out of the hut and be visible for a bit before going underground, if you had a fall problem you could have the pipe above ground for the last bit and make the ground level up.

Your poo pipe will need to fall 1:40. So 1cm of fall for 40cm run of pipe or 1m of fall for 40 m run of pipe. You will need to lift the man hole closest to the septic tank and measure down to the base of the pipe coming in. Try not to get poo on your tape. This is called the invert level. The lower into the ground this is the better for you if you are some distance away.

Oh ok. yes it will be crap, haven’t used any like that since college in 1986. Just keep it wet, it will loose it’s workability really quick and you will need to keep knocking it up.

What on Earth are you doing ??? why the lime?? Do not add washing up liquid!!! 5-1 sand cement or 6-1 sand cement both with proper plasticiser if it’s underground 3-1 sand cement. And if it’s above ground and will be seen, just pay a bricklayer.

The roofs by me are standing seam so maybe not going to help. They have laid a flat sheet acros the top of the window for the full width, the sheets above come down and finish on this flat sheet. The width of the side sheets has been altered as well, so probably like you having a larger overlap on your corrugated sheets.

Why not put the first floor joists in, place a a row of acrow props under the floor as dummy support in the place of the stud walls. Then build up Nudura and fit roof. Remove acro props, don’t allow anybody upstairs, pour floor screed and replace one or two acro props to take any sag out of floor, then build stud walls removing props as you go.

You can buy cold galv spray in screwfix and toolstation. You will need to wirebrush it down and remove any dusty bits.

All the houses near me with metal roofs and roof lights have series of sheets cut to different sizes flashing around the window.

Grow a pair and tell her she’s wrong.

I used Icf supplies, they will rent them to you.

@nod you need to come back to this, he seriously needs your help. @pocster wait for nod, ignore all other stupid comments unless they involved mf metal ceiling stuff. Its like metal stud walling but for a ceiling. Hang on he will be back soon.