Russell griffiths

If you put control joints in the correct place then it’s unlikely to crack in other places. for a long path I would put them every 2.5m and just look out for thin paths joining larger areas, it will crack at the join.

What on earth gave you that idea. chemical anchors drilled into the brickwork, I would put a bolt every 600mm but some will say 1200 is plenty, you can stagger the bolts top and bottom. as this is carrying a fairly substantial load I would seek professional input.

And this is why I do everything myself, I just cannot put up with the moaning and winging.

We recently looked at Schmidt. it made all the other German stuff we looked at fairly plain. quote was similar to the others.

Tell us what you think it will cost and we can tell you how far out you are. If you get a shell up and then employ various trades, I’m saying your place will not come in under £450,000.

I’m wondering if your a bit confused. why would you want a vapour open material, that would allow vapour( moisture) into your roof void, if you don’t know the make up of the roof then how do you know that vapour will escape. better to not let vapour into a roof space.

That could be a plan, could have the tubby welsh bloke here as well.

Still not understanding. If it is to construct the fall on a flat roof, then how will it be breathable if you then put a waterproof covering on it. What am I missing.

Ooh Er, that’s good to know.

Board lifter is cool, however it needs to go up 4m, I’m thinking of adapting mine, but haven’t put that much thought into it yet.

Should we set up a build hub extra muscle hot line. I need 4 lads to help soon fitting some plasterboard. Im more than happy to help anybody out. Im in Cirencester Gloucestershire. Any thoughts admin gods.

What for, for the slope on a roof ?? if you have found pir available, then what’s wrong with that ?

Oh god why, it’s not a product that is needed, far superior products out there. let it die.

I would rather use a block of your finest cheddar than a thermalite, solid concrete block all day long for me.

You won’t though, you will spend it on a more expensive kitchen 🤣🤣

Are you not messing about over a couple of grand. Get the piles found in and sleep soundly.

I have seen this done in America.

without spending more than a minute on it something like this.

I don’t like your layout at all. I would take the toilet directly to the out let for the septic tank. I would have a stack coming out of the ground rising to take the toilet, with a 50mm entry point going back to shower and sink, with a separate 50/40 to the kitchen sink.

Row of concrete blocks on flat, row of marmx blocks then timber sole plate, all held in position by insulation and screed. What are you doing with your external walls to minimise thermal bridge. Do the same.

Just the structural wall through to the beam and block, the rest on top of the screed no screws needed, pu glue the sole plates down, you will not move them.

Haven’t got time to think about your whole question. But you need to ditch the 32mm idea and go 40mm if any length of run then go 50mm 32 is only any good for a tiny wash basin over a tiny distance.

Have you looked at British larch, or western red cedar or Douglas fir. Depends if your looking at rustic finish or sharp clean edges. Ive recently seen British ash that looked good.

@Onoff when fitting a piece of board use a spirit level instead of the board to keep it stiff and straight, you can see it’s level without having to keep checking it.

Grinder