Russell griffiths

Why plaster it ? 6mm mdf ? 6mm mdf with veneer ? those shower panel things. What sort of finish do you want ?

Well it hasn’t fallen down yet.

What would have happened if it burned down one night.

I’m afraid I think your wrong, they are suppling a product, you might do something random with it like fit it in a shipping container house, if you have specific fitting requirements then your architect should supply a drawing. You might go to them and ask if they can advise on fittings per window according to weight. From my experience this last couple of years you are far better off just getting some windows and then designing the fitting method and employing a couple of good lads to fit them to your spec. The window fitters will want to chuck them in as fast as possible and off to the next job. Unless you are having a one off bespoke door system that requires weeks of discussion between architect and window supplier.

Why are you using 150mm pipe. 110mm is standard, it might connect to a larger pipe but the one from the house will be 110, that might give you a bit more wiggle room.

9mm osb is absolutely a waste of time you won’t get a fixing in it, 11mm minimum, but I have 18mm behind most walls.

Get the screed put in and put a tarpaulin over the hole when they are finished, if it’s liquid screed it will be dry in the morning.

Evaporation. Run the shower once a week. Sorted.

That’s fairly standard in Australia normally in high value homes to get an even finish across the boards.

Isn’t it just thin joint masonry. The blocks look like the yutong things, like a thermalise but denser, made with a fine white clay type stuff.

Don’t know if it’s just me but the whole drawing is in yellow, except for one red line.

You don’t have cabinets against the end wall, you need a decor strip, usually 18mm or can be as chunky as 22 mm so your cabinet run will be 18 -600- 600-600-600-600-18 plus tolerance you will need 3040 for this configuration with straight walls.

only 14 degrees inside with no heating on, but not a lot escaping from that roof.

Icf blocks. Single storey rectangular build with one or two opening will be the easiest thing to build going. You could get the blocks up in two/three days with two of you. Then concrete pour. Roof trusses with a raised cross tie for extra head room, will be very thermally efficient and good airtightness. Render outside, 18mm ply on the walls inside and then pink plasterboard. Will make the nicest workshop you’ve ever had.

Take it as 100% your concrete floor will not be flat enough for LVT. So look up what people say is the best product to put under LVT and work back from there, allowing 5-10-12mm discrepancies across the whole of the two slabs so this allows you to put a layer of self levelling compound on top to get the levels bob on.

Wall plate doesn’t need to be airtight, just bolt it down. What is your airtight strategy between the roof/ ceiling and walls.

Let us know how long it is before you want to kill him, her, them.

@Kelvin A lot of little things massively up the cost of kitchens. My other half wanted a shadow gap all the way around the island. I was rather taken aback by the amount this added! Ive just had this priced, but instead of a black aluminium trim I had it priced up in black walnut. !!!! We decided against it 🤣🤣

Those plastic grids will last about 30 seconds. Options you have. Hire in something which will cost you, but at the end no cost to remove and reinstate. Tempory Road way, which is aluminium sheets that lock together, or bog mats, these are huge slabs of timber bolted together. Ive used both in my case it was cheaper to buy the bog mats and throw them on a bonfire at the end, I had them on a job for over a year. Get an excavator tor’s in and dig out, then a ground reinforcement membrane, then lorry loads of large 75mm or bigger stone, topped of with type 1. When you remove this you can use it around the house.

Osmo uv protection oil. Also very expensive, but very impressed so far.

ICF perimeter walls, slab floor, but make sure your flood risk height is the bottom of the slab floor not finished floor height.

You will pour that as one. However your idea of an insulated raft sort of goes away if you build the walls up and pour the concrete inside that structure, where will the sips walls sit, on the brick walls or on the concrete. You need to do a section drawing really to get a grasp of where all the elements combine.

At that size I would look at a steel portal frame. Not the RSJ type but the galvanised uprights and rafters, you get feet that bolt down to your slab and then the uprights bolt to that, far more ridged than timber, better rot resistance. Just put timber cladding over it. Floor slab I would go 250- 300 mm perimeter with 150mm slab over the rest of it, put mesh in it and it will be there after your long gone.

I’m not understanding your problem, you have posted multiple times regarding this. my own experience. Our site is a SSSI under the supposed control of Natural England, we have a large lake on site of 7 acres and another of an acre. We employed a hydrologist to provide calculations for rainwater discharge and what to do about the treatment plant. He came back saying that all discharge from the treatment plant can go straight to the lake !!!!! i was never happy with that idea and did something slightly different with a catchment pond before the lake. We sent it all in with building regs and it just got got ticked off. Im sure building control are just interested in you supplying them with a method, they don’t really care too much about the method they just want to tick that box and go for lunch. Not understanding why your discharge doesnt doesn’t go straight to a filter-bed soakaway. What im getting at is that for an ecologically sensitive site mines probably 100 times more protected than yours, and I have 3 tanks on site and two of them discharge to soakaway and the new one straight to a pond.

I did offer a solution, have a read. Sips come in standard widths, if he wants a custom size it would be easier to go twin stud and make it the size he wants. Why do you think I would have a personal bias against a product ? i don’t sell anything so no motive there. I just find people go to a home show and see a product, or are led by an architect and suddenly that’s how they think they are building, without knowing all the other options out there.