Russell griffiths

Drop it as steep as you like, the old wives tale of leaving solids behind is more for clay pipe, plastic runs fast. Slope it down straight into chamber , get a bit of speed behind it and it will keep the whole run clean and shiny.

plywood to cover treated timber in cavity. This is how ive just done this one.

KSo floor level 100% correct, not a chance. Your slab will be the height it is but ffl is slab plus flooring so slab plus self levelling compound plus tiles. Or you change your mind and it’s now self levelling compound and LVT so in the blink of an eye you have lost 15mm in height. So your door now sits 15mm too high. As I said stop your concrete on the inside of the walls, stop your concrete core low and build it up two days before you fit the doors. Your doors can sit on the insulation, they don’t need to sit on concrete. Regarding seeing the wood wood in the icf block core, that’s correct, you see this on the inside, you then pack this out with a skinny bit of insulation and then cover with plasterboard, you need to make your opening a bit larger than the door, or you end up with the standard shit look that people have with the plasterboard touching the door hinges. Ive just spent 2 days cutting out a floor slab and grinding down the insulation on a new build where the door was installed too high, another company came back to put the door in and said they wished they were all this accurate.

another one.

I’m afraid there’s nothing I like about that design. Pour your concrete and leave it very low at the threshold, bring it up to level when you have 100% worked out FFL , then bring it up and add more insulation for the door to sit on, I used XPS 500.

But levelling compound is not structural, it sits on top of a concrete or screed slab to make it flatter. You cannot put it over insulation, it has no strength jump up and down on it and it will just break up. Needs 75mm of traditional screed or 50mm of liquid screed over insulation for the strength.

Is that a typo or do you mean 25mm, where is the structural bit. If you put 25mm on top of insulation, then the first fat kid to fall over on it will see it cracking.

Have you looked at getting this done for free under the lead replacement scheme.

Regarding tools, the only tool on site that is mains powered is a table saw, 99.9% of everything I own is battery powered. Regarding the breaker, just go and hire one for a day.

A few pointers, you are working backwards start at ffl and work down with your measurements not up. FFL is internal. FGL finish ground level is external so start at FFL and measure down, you can then work out if you need to add anything, if it was me I would try to add more concrete to the foundation. Then use a concrete trench block not an aircrete one, laid flat so 100mm build up per course, this gives you much more flexibility with height difference. With your one course that comes up so high, if your foundation is 50mm out of level ( it will be) you have no flexibility to adjust the blocks to take up this inaccuracy.

Is it an illusion or is the black pipe protruding i trim them all flush to the plasterboard then a vent shouldn’t stick down more than 10-12mm.

That looks the nuts, just paid £650 for something very similar. 👍

Original house will be poorly insulated and airtight, your new extension will be better but still not amazing. Your old house will require fairly high heat being pumped into the rads. New floor will need lower temps adding to it. Trying to get a general plumber to sort out that will be hard work, the builder you use will probably have his own plumber who understands rads, it’s just an easier option to mitigate against it all going a bit tits up. If if you were doing a full £200,000 Reno, all floors out, loads of insulation everywhere then it might be a bit more beneficial to go ufh everywhere, but for a little infil I don’t see the point in mixing up something that works.

Two.

By the time you messed about getting a table saw set up I would have cut it and been heading down the pub. Cut it 3mm too long and tidy the end up with a grinder.

Yes easy with a petrol cut off saw or a 9 inch grinder. If I was desperate I could do it with a 5 inch grinder and the skinny 1mm blades.

It’s got nothing to do with building control, as long as your cables are in the proper safe zones, and properly supported. If I was doing mine again I would do it like on the continent with a large duct that I can pull new cables through.

Look at the post above. See what you think and come back to me, I haven’t ordered one yet.

In a modern build in my opinion you shouldn’t have any pipes exiting through the wall, I certainly would not want to see them outside i would plan all the drainage to be under the slab with a 110 mm stub showing where you are having bathroom equipment.

Yes, completely different. You need a form from the council, fill it all in, you might need an asbestos survey and a method statement from demo company.

The next day. But have you got your consent to demolish, get that organised now as well then it will be current ready to knock down.

How heavy are these cabinets ? i would be thinking that that wall should have a sheet of ply on it before plasterboard, if so pull the plasterboard down, locate pipe, plywood and re plasterboard.

Another one here with the green coat roof.

@ruggers have a look at DEFENDOOR. Down in Newton Abbot. Tell me what you think. I haven't had a quote yet but it was all I have found that look ok.

That’s what I made it. It needs 50mm of insulated plasterboard on the inside as well in my opinion.