Russell griffiths

You are creating a disaster for yourself #1 is the only one that is actually going to work the others will overshoot the small roof, look at how our rainfall pattern is changing, heavy sudden downpours as opposed to old rain which was drizzle all day. That valley will have a monumental amount coming down it, you need to look at that area carefully.

Rods will cost you £50 jetting will cost you whatever call out they charge £100 ???? £200???? i just like to do everything myself, I don’t trust anybody to do a decent job and I generally learn something doing the job.

Just to clarify. 600mm is the centre to centre of the studs NOT the gap between them. Imagine putting a sheet of plasterboard up that is 1200wide if your gaps were 600 the plasterboard would not reach the next stud. But also look at plywood sizes, this is usually 8 foot by 4 foot, so that throws you out as well. Get your materials and do a layout on the floor to see if you need to jiggle stud spacing.

Or you could do this.

PEasy, done it before. Go and buy a cheap power drill with a clutch, slow cutting and lots of cutting fluid, get a squirty bottle for the fluid, and a mate to squirt it.

Why do you want the pipe near the wall. Go and pick a selection of toilets and download the pdf of dimensions, it will give you the centre dimension for the toilet outlet, you also have a lot of wiggle room with pan connectors these days. Also take into account the wall make up, you might have a batten on the wall to take pipes and cables, so allow for that.

Still not fitted, getting there, but I’m a bit slow. 🤣🤣

Building control are interested in you showing how you an maintain the system. A chamber on the outside gives access to rod or jet backwards, nowhere does it say you need access on both ends of the run, if that was the case every toilet connected to a rest bend would be incorrect and would need to be on a tee with a rodding eye, which doesn’t happen. So rest bend up to floor level then boss connection then a cap for maintenance, if you want, but don’t have to.

No rodding eye needed, but as a bit of belt n braces can you bring the 110 up into the kitchen in a cupboard unit and fit a connector to take 50mm from kitchen stuff, on top of this 110 in cupboard you can have a screw cap for emergencies, it will never be needed with today’s jetting equipment. Dont do the red line thing. Why are you worried about extra pipes coming from the building i currently have 9 110mm pipes coming out. If you are having block n beam , why are you under the foundation level, would you not be bringing pipes out on top of foundation through your first row of Nudura. Obviously I cannot see it but I remember your foundation pics recently.

You don’t need a concrete base, in fact it could be a pain in the arse, if you set it too high you cannot wiggle the tank down. I have a graff and I bet I have a higher water table than anybody on the forum. Put 200mm of 10mm gravel in the bottom of the hole, bed your tank into this and get the correct height and level. Fill the tank with clean water 50% full back fill around tank with dry concrete mix, absolutely dry, so you can walk around it compacting it, get up to the half way mark and start adding more water to the tank up to 75% full, add more concrete around tank but this time a bit wetter, bring up to whatever level your happy with, as I said my water table is horrendous so I concreted right to ground level.

It’s nothing to do with your tank it’s your plumbing in the house. Your tank could smell like Gandhi flip flop and the smell should not enter the house. You have a problem somewhere that as water runs out it’s breaking the air seal and letting the smell in. This means you need to look at the air admittance in your system, as water rushes out it needs to pull air in with it, if you have a blocked or missing or non functioning air admittance device then that’s where you need to start looking. You can replace the traps under sinks with one that has an anti siphon mechanism, then look at soil stack outside and make sure the end is clear so it can pull in air and work around the system from there.

If you want to do it single handed get a de coiler i bought a de coiler and staple gun and sold both afterwards. Do not be tempted to take the pipe off in coils, you will end up in a world of pain.

I was told with the pumped outlet to get back to a big pipe ASAP so you can run 30-40m in 32mm pipe but I lifted the water 1m high and into another chamber where it then exits in 110mm to the pond. Flows fast and does not put back pressure on the pump.

Buy 100m rolls of pipe or you will end up with loads of silly 10m bits that go in the skip.

What do you mean by pumped. Pump the poo to the tank or pump water from tank to watercourse i fitted a graf tank with a pumped outlet. Remote blower in shed and pumped outlet, lifts the water 1m and sends it to a pond 25m away.

We have gone rimless, I told a friend who has one and she hates it, said the water doesn’t squirt all the way around the front and with 3 boys in the house it always has wee dribbles sitting at the front.

this is what we had had in mind for ours. Hob was £600 dearer than a top mount alternative worktop choice was limited worktop cost £400 for hole cutting. So will it look £1000 better than another type, we didn’t think so so have gone glass low level only an 8mm rise above the worktop. We just had to start drawing a line somewhere, cost are getting ridiculous.

Some of my thoughts, I could be completely looking at it the wrong way. You are measuring how far away your cold is from the shower. So what. If you are running a hot return to the shower, that is blended down to 45 degrees for arguments sake at the point of origin, then you won’t be feeding much cold in to the mixer valve at the shower end, as it’s already at a good temp. So 90% of the water coming out of the shower is from the hot return. Right or wrong.

Move that other bracket closer to the join as well, you will get movement at the join due to the rubber. Try to strap close to joins and then work away from that.

It’s not near the rest bend. that Bend will blow off the end of the pipe with the downward splat and whoosh of last nights kebab.

Don’t forget to strap the life out of that rest bend.

@nodone for you.

Just like one of those nutribullet smoothie maker.

Who designed the insulated slab ? they will tell you what it needs to sit on, is the new house going to be the shape of those old footings ? you will need to remove all that soil for the entire footprint of the house plus about a metre in all directions, then some form of crushed stone heavily compacted in layers until you are up to the level you need, no loam no clay. All down to the designer and any warranty company

Strips of insulation, glued and screwed, then plasterboard on top.