Russell griffiths

I looked into them 5 years ago and couldn’t find anything to put in the plus column, so the got dismissed.

I think you should have looked into it a bit more, disregarding a product because a couple of people on a tv programme made a hash of it, isn’t really a good measure of a product, the people involved in that show shouldn’t really have been allowed anywhere near it. Silly old lady and her neighbour helping, yea that’s going to work. 🤣🤣

Don’t do the plastering course, you will not be doing this yourself, same for the rendering. Things you can do as a keen diy’er demolition level site set out dig foundation, or lay insulated slab lay drains build icf walls. Fit roof trusses fit facia soffit fit roofing guttering fitting windows first fix plumbing electrics you can do a bit if you find a nice electrician to help fitting insulation plaster boarding fitting skirting and architrave fitting doors fitting kitchen decorating Tiling second fix plumbing. things you won’t be doing laying floor slab laying screed plastering rendering crack on bud, I wish I was 27 again.

I think your missing the point a bit, buy the howdens staircase, build a plywood box to fit under it to get your height, then put it on Facebook at the end and get £100 back for it. If you need winders just build them out of ply and chuck it on the bonfire in a years time.

Cannot see anything in that video that isn’t available almost everywhere, are you talking about a truss clip, this sits under a truss and nails in the side. Or there’s something called a triple grip, this nails to the side of a joist and down to a wall plate. Do a pic of what hat you want to do.

Check with your supplier, mine sat out in all weather until the roof went on, probably 6-8 weeks, I believe it’s all waterproof glue like a version of D4 glue on steroids.

Spell checking bloody iPad. Its not a metro beam. It’s a kerto beam, basically laminated plywood cut into a solid timber profile so just like your 9x2 or 225x 48. Whatever size your after, your joist manufactures should do them.

Don’t bother. I read your other post, for such a small amount of blockwork your heat loss from a regular joint to a thin joint is so small it’s not worth even entertaining the idea.

The big problem with fitting the ledger board before the pour is the braces for the icf, if the ledger board is in the way it’s a right pain to fix the bracing. If your heights and design allows it to be fitted first then that’s what I would do. After that go for top hanging the joists, no hangers needed so money to save, and the sit really flat, just get the design done around that because there will be extra blocking between the joists to prevent sideways twisting. You will also also need some very very straight timber for the ledger board. i would use a metro beam from the joist manufacturer for them, and tell them if there not straight you will not accept them.

Oak or pine, I would never fit oak before plastering, but if pine then prime them and undercoat and chuck them in.

Would you not be better off (expletive deleted)ing of those gash saniflow and gravity feed to a proper twin pump station, that can handle pumping turds without blending it up into a poopie smoothie. 💩🥤

Cut the fence both sides of the stump, chop stump out some how, or get a stump grinder in. Then go and buy a new 10m roll of fence and knit it in to the original chain link, it’s fairly easy if you look at how it’s made. If you go this way, come back here and I will talk you through it.

Talk to Andrew Jones ,THE VAT MAN look him up on Facebook.

Why would it need the A393, why not just tie it up in 10mm bar. How does the cost of loose bar compare to sheet ?? is it still just based on per tonne price or is sheet a premium price??

Why are you sourcing mesh from a builders merchants. Go straight to a steel mesh supplier. Total construction supplies in the west maids did mine, 40% cheaper than a merchants.

Leave the screed alone, adding any heat in my opinion is asking for trouble, get all the doors and windows open and let the breeze do its thing, trying to rush drying it is a recipe for problems later. If you needed it dry faster faster you should have used a faster drying product. It is what it is, get on with something else.

As far as I’m aware, that design alone will be far too bouncy, and will rely on a substantial glass balustrade and glass handrail structure to give it the strength needed.

Wood is a fairly good insulator , don’t make that job more complicated than it needs to be. Just get that ledger board bolted on solid.

Lots of standing seam out there that isn’t zink look at a product called pagurek there’s a few people on here that have it. 3 weeks isn’t exactly that long to sort this out, I would expect some delays.

Smash it all out down to a flat level area.

Why are the longer joists less thick ?? are you putting them at closer centres ? regarding the hole, drill in through the board and add additional anchors either side to take the load of each joist. Have you worked out the deflection over that span ?

Fell it, get it cut into planks, use it for very rustic garden furniture. It will end up being the most expensive timber you have on site by the time you have paid to get this done.

Pick a better icf system and they will recommend the engineer. Same with the insulated slab, pick a good product and they will have details of engineers familiar with the product. The worst thing you can do is pick an engineer that isn’t familiar and is over cautious because of this, could cost you thousands in over the top reinforcement.

Ok ditch the celcons, should you have a tray dpc to shed any water to the outside???

Use an icf block instead, one of the eps based ones, then you can run it inline with your ewi and render straight over all of it, no bricklayers needed, no silly aerated blocks, no dot and dab, and highly airtight.