Russell griffiths

Lots of standing seam out there that isn’t zink look at a product called pagurek there’s a few people on here that have it. 3 weeks isn’t exactly that long to sort this out, I would expect some delays.

Smash it all out down to a flat level area.

Why are the longer joists less thick ?? are you putting them at closer centres ? regarding the hole, drill in through the board and add additional anchors either side to take the load of each joist. Have you worked out the deflection over that span ?

Fell it, get it cut into planks, use it for very rustic garden furniture. It will end up being the most expensive timber you have on site by the time you have paid to get this done.

Pick a better icf system and they will recommend the engineer. Same with the insulated slab, pick a good product and they will have details of engineers familiar with the product. The worst thing you can do is pick an engineer that isn’t familiar and is over cautious because of this, could cost you thousands in over the top reinforcement.

Ok ditch the celcons, should you have a tray dpc to shed any water to the outside???

Use an icf block instead, one of the eps based ones, then you can run it inline with your ewi and render straight over all of it, no bricklayers needed, no silly aerated blocks, no dot and dab, and highly airtight.

I’ve seen lots of people do this, loads on you tube and insta, lots do it badly and a few do it well. What i see the good ones doing. Build some additional accommodation so let’s say your having a double garage. Build this first, then drag the static over to it and join them together install a wood burner in the garage, with a washing machine and a small drying area, leave the door open to the static, or even cut the door out twice as wide, the warm air keeps the static cosy, little front room in the garage and sleeping only in the static. .

Have you considered moving that room back down stairs and turning that back into a cold loft space like it was before.

Pictures needed inside and out.

F##k me what did your last slave die of. There is a pukka hose place near me, when you drop of my new tile cutter you can have a look. 😉

Fitting a smooth outer pipe into that rubber and relying on a jubilant cup is asking for trouble you need a pipe with a lip on it so it’s trapped behind the jubilee clip. Sort of how the neck on a car radiator is. I would sort out your 100% finished idea and then visit a pump and hose specialist and get some better fittings made up. Just out of interest any fitting on the pressure side of the system, should they be pressure pipe rather than just 40mm waste and flexible fittings. The sort used on swimming pool and jacuzzi setups not just a dribble from a kitchen sink.

Row of gabion baskets. Dig trench, bit of stone, run the wacker up and down, face up with the stone you were going to use. Natural looking, flexible so no cracking if you get any movement. Fast, and not a lot of skill needed. Sounds perfect.

A thing to think about with any retaining structure is build in a bit of flexibility. If a solid block wall moves a mm you will get cracking, if a Gabion wall settles a bit, you will never know. Go the gabions. I priced to do some major retaking works alongside the river Thames. One engineer had it in timber and one in concrete and brick, I priced the timber, they went with the concrete and brick, two years later it got ripped out as the water rose and it all settled a bit.

Show us a picture buttercup.

Time to part company.

I could be completely wrong ( but unlikely 🤣🤣) if you look in the pic there are flat boards on top of those rafters, these look like valley boards, there is also a timber directly above the split, this looks like a ridge board. I think there is another roof situated resting directly on that purlin. Either it is a little gable type roof sitting on top badly designed, or an additional roof has been added like a small extension. Either way the purlin has been overloaded i think this could be jacked back up, from the opposite purlin or a wall below, then the original purlin could be sandwiched with a couple of steel plates and plenty of bolts, with a couple of better struts going down onto an internal wall. Either get them to fix it or go in £10,000 under on an offer.

But you still need it to go via the truss designer, none of us know what your trusses are holding up.

Tell the truss designers to design in a steel reinforcement plate. 222mm deep 750 long with a 110mm hole in them, glued and bolted both sides. He probably thinks you just just want to blast a big hole in his bottom cord, everything is doable as long as you then don’t nit pick his reinforcement design, by then saying the metal is too expensive. Do a sketch of your proposal and send send it over to them.

Ask him about changing the pier to a steel post, bolted to the foundation and lateral restraints at the top into stud work.

Go and by a set of four pump up wedges, cannot think what they are called. Stick the door and frame in the hole, secure with blow up wedges. You can now swing the door and check all locks work and gaps are even, if not pump up one more and let the other down until you are happy. Measure gaps and cut some packers or a hardwood sub frame. Fit this and re secure with pump up wedges. When happy screw and glue.

If you are confident in making your own doors then you can work this out, you have a track, get it fitted get the doors hung and on to the next job. Over thinking has probably cost me months on this house. If you bought the track you must have thought it necessary, get it in and sleep soundly.

Butt hinges on the door to door, buy quality then some good quality adjustable ones like haffel if you are making the doors shaker style then they will be lightweight, my kitchen doors are 22mm solid hdf they are silly heavy.

Ask your tiler again about total height. You will have adhesive anti fracture mat adhesive tile. Mine came up 20mm just hold the batten down with some concrete blocks any floor leveller that will do 20mm width is dependant on tank size plus pipe work, the bigger the better. More importantly is to clean and prime the floor.

I had exactly the same, I worked out tiles and adhesive would be roughly 25mm high. so I fixed a 25mm batten to the plant room floor at a point just inside the plant room door. I then added a very tough high build floor leveller inside this batten bringing the floor up 25mm. when dry I removed the batten and painted the new screed with a couple of coats of garage floor paint. all plant and tanks sit on this new screed. the tiler came and tiled up neatly to my new raised screed. 2mm aluminium trim over join between tiles and painted floor. worked perfectly.