Russell griffiths

I’ve seen lots of people do this, loads on you tube and insta, lots do it badly and a few do it well. What i see the good ones doing. Build some additional accommodation so let’s say your having a double garage. Build this first, then drag the static over to it and join them together install a wood burner in the garage, with a washing machine and a small drying area, leave the door open to the static, or even cut the door out twice as wide, the warm air keeps the static cosy, little front room in the garage and sleeping only in the static. .

Have you considered moving that room back down stairs and turning that back into a cold loft space like it was before.

Pictures needed inside and out.

F##k me what did your last slave die of. There is a pukka hose place near me, when you drop of my new tile cutter you can have a look. 😉

Fitting a smooth outer pipe into that rubber and relying on a jubilant cup is asking for trouble you need a pipe with a lip on it so it’s trapped behind the jubilee clip. Sort of how the neck on a car radiator is. I would sort out your 100% finished idea and then visit a pump and hose specialist and get some better fittings made up. Just out of interest any fitting on the pressure side of the system, should they be pressure pipe rather than just 40mm waste and flexible fittings. The sort used on swimming pool and jacuzzi setups not just a dribble from a kitchen sink.

Row of gabion baskets. Dig trench, bit of stone, run the wacker up and down, face up with the stone you were going to use. Natural looking, flexible so no cracking if you get any movement. Fast, and not a lot of skill needed. Sounds perfect.

A thing to think about with any retaining structure is build in a bit of flexibility. If a solid block wall moves a mm you will get cracking, if a Gabion wall settles a bit, you will never know. Go the gabions. I priced to do some major retaking works alongside the river Thames. One engineer had it in timber and one in concrete and brick, I priced the timber, they went with the concrete and brick, two years later it got ripped out as the water rose and it all settled a bit.

Show us a picture buttercup.

Time to part company.

I could be completely wrong ( but unlikely 🤣🤣) if you look in the pic there are flat boards on top of those rafters, these look like valley boards, there is also a timber directly above the split, this looks like a ridge board. I think there is another roof situated resting directly on that purlin. Either it is a little gable type roof sitting on top badly designed, or an additional roof has been added like a small extension. Either way the purlin has been overloaded i think this could be jacked back up, from the opposite purlin or a wall below, then the original purlin could be sandwiched with a couple of steel plates and plenty of bolts, with a couple of better struts going down onto an internal wall. Either get them to fix it or go in £10,000 under on an offer.

But you still need it to go via the truss designer, none of us know what your trusses are holding up.

Tell the truss designers to design in a steel reinforcement plate. 222mm deep 750 long with a 110mm hole in them, glued and bolted both sides. He probably thinks you just just want to blast a big hole in his bottom cord, everything is doable as long as you then don’t nit pick his reinforcement design, by then saying the metal is too expensive. Do a sketch of your proposal and send send it over to them.

Ask him about changing the pier to a steel post, bolted to the foundation and lateral restraints at the top into stud work.

Go and by a set of four pump up wedges, cannot think what they are called. Stick the door and frame in the hole, secure with blow up wedges. You can now swing the door and check all locks work and gaps are even, if not pump up one more and let the other down until you are happy. Measure gaps and cut some packers or a hardwood sub frame. Fit this and re secure with pump up wedges. When happy screw and glue.

If you are confident in making your own doors then you can work this out, you have a track, get it fitted get the doors hung and on to the next job. Over thinking has probably cost me months on this house. If you bought the track you must have thought it necessary, get it in and sleep soundly.

Butt hinges on the door to door, buy quality then some good quality adjustable ones like haffel if you are making the doors shaker style then they will be lightweight, my kitchen doors are 22mm solid hdf they are silly heavy.

Ask your tiler again about total height. You will have adhesive anti fracture mat adhesive tile. Mine came up 20mm just hold the batten down with some concrete blocks any floor leveller that will do 20mm width is dependant on tank size plus pipe work, the bigger the better. More importantly is to clean and prime the floor.

I had exactly the same, I worked out tiles and adhesive would be roughly 25mm high. so I fixed a 25mm batten to the plant room floor at a point just inside the plant room door. I then added a very tough high build floor leveller inside this batten bringing the floor up 25mm. when dry I removed the batten and painted the new screed with a couple of coats of garage floor paint. all plant and tanks sit on this new screed. the tiler came and tiled up neatly to my new raised screed. 2mm aluminium trim over join between tiles and painted floor. worked perfectly.

I used aqua base render and mesh then a black acrylic render on top. covers the first course of Nudura brilliantly.

Any good track shop will have the dimensions just from your machine make and model. Look online they normally have a drop down menu for different makes.

Did a job for a neighbour last week. took the excavator round on the trailer. two days later I had to bring the digger back, so being lazy I thought I wouldn’t bother with the trailer, but track it 200m down the grass verge, 20m from my drive I have to nip acros the road to my side. Can you guess when the track came off, yep the last 20m right in the middle of the road. oh how I laughed.

Tracks for your machine will be £175 each roughly changing them is a half hour job. Having a spare track is one of those things that you will never need, until the day it snaps and the water board is coming the next day. You can get tracks within 48hours delivered if an emergency. One man job on that size machine.

If your unsure how to replace the track then I would think you don’t know how to tension them correctly either. In which case you are probably running them too slack leading to them jigging about and the damage. You will need a grease gun and a socket set. In the flat panel between the front drive sprocket and the idler wheel is a hole ( probably full of mud ) on this hole is a 19mm nut with a grease nipple in the centre, this is how you tension the track. Swing the arm arm of the machine round and push on the ground to lift the track off the ground, take a pic and put it up, I bet the track hangs very slack. To adjust it up you fit the grease gun to the nipple and pump in more grease, as you pump you will see the idler wheel move out and the slack in the track lift. Get some pics and report back.

Not as simple as that, it’s actually a very big hole, so mid size excavator, lots of spoil to take away, gravel or concrete base, install tank, gravel or concrete surrounding. that’s just the tank, it then has to discharge somewhere, either a ditch or you need a drainage field. so loads more digging and drains and gravel. I did mine myself and I think the quotes I had were fair. good ground and a ditch to discharge to will remove a lot of cost.

Plus labour to install I had a quote of £17,000 all in. just another cost. not really a problem there isn’t a house within a couple of miles of me connected to mains drainage. it’s certainly not a deal breaker.