Russell griffiths

9mm osb is terrible stuff, go thicker it will provide better racking stiffness. Why the insulation in the cavity? ive stick built with a block skin, all the insulation on the inside in my opinion. Having stick built before i would use an airtight osb on the inside also, tape this and use it as your vcl

You have absolutely zero chance the oak won’t move and the plaster won’t crack. Can you build it in, in a way that the plaster does not but up to it, either a stop bead or mount the oak forward and the plaster sits behind somehow. Oak frame houses and plaster were always a problem, so they changed how they are boarded and the plasternow goes behind the oak so they are free to both move independently. I would look at this for maybe a solution.

I painted the gap and up the wall with Triton tt gas membrane paint used it for all junctions, had an outstanding air test result.

Stick whatever you choose to the ply with a hybrid adhesive something like stixall. Jackoboard needs a special primer before you skim. Ring technical to get spec. NOT PVA.

if you dogleg it like this you can get it closer to the front of the board.

Read the tread about diy plumbing, I think this was covered in detail about a week ago. Changing from hep to copper and then to a brass back plate elbow. Its by @Thorfun I think.

Why use MR plasterboard in the first place, you won’t have high levels of humidity. Your MVHR will have taken that away before it gets anywhere near the ceiling, unless it’s a 2x2m room with a 5 ring hob boiling water constantly then your over thinking it, these boards where designed for older style houses to overcome a problem, you won’t have that problem. You dont need it on window reveals, they should be insulated enough to not be getting any condensation or damp, so sort that issue instead of fitting a board that doesn’t mind being damp. Dont fit a bandaid to cover a problem, design out the problem. Normal board or pink for fire rating or blue for sound, but MR not needed. In a bathroom you should be tanking wet areas, so it’s not needed there either, and there are better boards than MR for that also.

Looking at your build quality I think you will be getting an air test in the 0.2 region, I spent a lot of time detailing all those little junctions like you have, you won’t be putting the heating on much. Excellent job.

Work out your wall depth properly. You will have the wall studs then whatever board you use, then whatever finish you choose. Set your brass fitting 3 mm inside the finished surface, when you are ready to fit the outlet, you use CT1 to seal around the brass fittings, this way if you get any leak between the connections it will run down the outside of the finished wall and not into the wall if you haven't picked your wall finish then just leave a long leg of pipe sticking out and wait until you have made a decision, absolutely no point boarding the wall without knowing the finish.

Don’t bother move it to one side and use it for the drive, turning circle for deliveries path around house under scaffolding. Bring in nice and new for the slab as specified by the slab designer, by the time you have asked and they have thought about it any money saving will be long gone.

Screw through that bloody great brace at the back of the cupboard, not the cardboard shite. Fook me do I need to come and do it for you. 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

Gut a length of wood. Ooh Er misses. 38x63 or whatever stupid measurement that cls stuff comes in, rip it to the same size as the service void on the back of the carcass. Laser line around wall fit batten to wall screw cupboards back to batten.

Safe as houses, reinforced slab roof, 9 inch thick walls, it’s not going anywhere.

300m of cat 6 is £75 run two cables to every room, landing hall whatever all ends going back to one location were the clever stuff goes, it cost pennies now or a fortune to fit later.

Looking at that picture, things could be deceiving, and that design could be simplified and costs cut significantly. Imagine if all the overhanging areas were just the roof and the deck/ patio area. The actual house punches through the patio area and goes directly to the ground, so could sit on fairly normal foundations, then at the floor level a lightweight steel frame projects out to create the deck area, this sits on columns that go straight up to roof level and pick up the oversailing roof. It depends really on @Matt Darey budget, he didn’t seem that keen when I said it would involve lots of steel and concrete.

Check with the cladding manufactures fixings normally 600 any wider and I think you will get wobbly cladding look.

This is exactly what I have done, scruffy side of house where the ASHP sits and the gas bottles, this side has a soil pipe as a vent up the house, the rest are internal with air admittance valves.

What’s the height? 3 battens won’t be enough. How do you stop the breather membrane getting all flappy. ?? How do you stop insects eating the breather membrane. ?? On the whole your idea needs far more thought I would get it all rendered, but the bit that is to be clad, just do the base coat and mesh, paint this Matt black, then fit the battens and cladding. Just my first thoughts.

Depends if you want a sleek modern house or a 1960’s style thing. I haven’t seen an external soil pipe for 20 odd years. They should have been designed in to be lost in wall voids/ back of cupboards and so on.

thinking about this as a sip build is irrelevant, there will be so little in the way of sip construction in that design. 50% of it will be steel and concrete, 20% glass, then do whatever you want for the remainder. I agree with others, a couple of extra columns will save you multiple of thousands in engineering design and steel and concrete. Cantilevers are nice , but not for what they cost.

If you can do a vertical or horizontal joint between two boards you can do the corners, I would say filling up to a corner bead is easier. Make sure you use drylining beads and not skim beads, drylining are shallower.

Canadian cedar is eye watering expensive at the moment ive just collected £2000 worth and I could probably carry it in two arm fulls. If your dead set on it then have a ring around, if not I would look at an alternative. I had no choice as 90% of my house is covered in it, would I do it again, not a chance.

Tanking slurry, you can buy it mixed in a big bucket, look at your local builders merchants lintel, you can get an internal steel lintel that is a galvanised steel in a wavy shape to add strength approx 30mm high. Again local builders merchants.

Your vapour control layer on the ceiling needs to come down the wall and be taped onto the wall, then whatever method of air sealing you are doing for the walls gets lapped either over or under that, if you are dot and dabbing you dab over the ceiling membrane. Just imagine you need to draw a continuous line inside your house with no breaks in it.