Russell griffiths

If you are doing this for commercial gain and not a hobby, I would think you would struggle to get any planning for this in an urban environment. Having admitted you will need an extraction system because of the paint fumes, getting consent for this will be hard, if not impossible. Most car painters I know have all changed to water based paints due to regulations. Ive always had large workshops and storage at home and found it increasingly hard to not have the council knocking on my door weekly after a neighbour had been moaning. I would look look at how many times you actually need to come into London and find an area with good transport, but far outside the M25.

Will look fine once the decorators tidy it up. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Is there not a screw you adjust that puts more tension on the spring. Mine has this adjustment, but there not Blum 🤣🤣, but I would have thought a high end hinge would have this facility.

What’s the challenge looks like you have it sussed. I would ditch the silly bath and use a double end rectangular bath with the taps at the side and the shower at the end. Build the bath into a fully tanked box, will take up less room in a small space, you will need floor towels as the spray from the shower in a 3m room will reach every part of the room. Last house had 3 wetrooms so I have a reasonable grasp on how far the splash will go.

Won’t you always have a wet floor though ? you need a reasonable slope to a shower wet area, and it always has a degree of standing water in grout lines or any small deviation in tile texture.

No trickle vents on mine.

My door company wouldn’t supply a door unless we left 30mm clear opening at the top to allow for deflection. Its filled with insulation now and covered with an aluminium trim.

1. Talk on site and discuss 2. follow up with an e mail 3. Follow on with drawings, specification, contact numbers for local council, copies of any consent you have to connect to sewer. Whitin the first minutes of driving away from a meeting I would probably get another call from another client follow up everything, I’m afraid your just another punter in the long list of punters. The squeaky wheel gets the oil.

What is your airtight strategy you have 3 things to deal with on a window 1 fix them to stop them falling out 2 air sealing on the inside 3 weather sealing on outside 1. Use brackets, that’s sorted 2. Airtight tape or foam and sealant 3. Sealant and pvc trim, sealant and mortar, sealant only. Many ways to skin a cat as long as you get a good strategy for all 3 then that’s it.

Fook it all off and go and buy a FRANKE tap brace. You will think of me in two years time when your tap is wobbling around like a cock in a sock and think, why didn’t I fit one of those braces like that clever bloke Russell said. Pop around later and bring me beer.

My dewalt multi tool is faultless. There also fairly cheap if you already have batteries

Deleted my post as I won’t need these now. Sorry.

You will have ANTI LIFT BLOCKS these are to prevent burglars lifting the door up, you need to locate these at the top and lift the sash in a position away from these blocks, it will be a snug fit. Thats all I can think of. Im not sure if you can remove these block, fit the sash, slide the sash open and then refit the blocks. Its been a while while since I’ve done one.

Use a foam that doesn’t expand.

The tester was on site for a couple of hours. You can get smoke sticks to detect air coming in. But it’s fairly obvious when you see the test being done. If the machine says it’s at 5 then you know you have a door or window open down to 1 and you can start looking for small gaps, you can hear air whooshing in if you walk around silently. You want nobody else on site the day of the test. I found two holes in some caulking about the size of a knitting needle and I could physically feel the air coming in.

I had an airtest done as the shell was finished for £300 it answers a lot of questions and allowed me to get on without worrying

Yep block board. Ive had some reasonably expensive oak units made, and 75% of it is oak veneer mdf, the bits really on show are solid oak, the reason again is the mdf just doesn’t move.

The foam is soudalbond, you would need a hammer and chisel to get it off.

9mm osb is terrible stuff, go thicker it will provide better racking stiffness. Why the insulation in the cavity? ive stick built with a block skin, all the insulation on the inside in my opinion. Having stick built before i would use an airtight osb on the inside also, tape this and use it as your vcl

You have absolutely zero chance the oak won’t move and the plaster won’t crack. Can you build it in, in a way that the plaster does not but up to it, either a stop bead or mount the oak forward and the plaster sits behind somehow. Oak frame houses and plaster were always a problem, so they changed how they are boarded and the plasternow goes behind the oak so they are free to both move independently. I would look at this for maybe a solution.

I painted the gap and up the wall with Triton tt gas membrane paint used it for all junctions, had an outstanding air test result.

Stick whatever you choose to the ply with a hybrid adhesive something like stixall. Jackoboard needs a special primer before you skim. Ring technical to get spec. NOT PVA.

if you dogleg it like this you can get it closer to the front of the board.

Read the tread about diy plumbing, I think this was covered in detail about a week ago. Changing from hep to copper and then to a brass back plate elbow. Its by @Thorfun I think.