Russell griffiths

Have you looked at getting this done for free under the lead replacement scheme.

Regarding tools, the only tool on site that is mains powered is a table saw, 99.9% of everything I own is battery powered. Regarding the breaker, just go and hire one for a day.

A few pointers, you are working backwards start at ffl and work down with your measurements not up. FFL is internal. FGL finish ground level is external so start at FFL and measure down, you can then work out if you need to add anything, if it was me I would try to add more concrete to the foundation. Then use a concrete trench block not an aircrete one, laid flat so 100mm build up per course, this gives you much more flexibility with height difference. With your one course that comes up so high, if your foundation is 50mm out of level ( it will be) you have no flexibility to adjust the blocks to take up this inaccuracy.

Is it an illusion or is the black pipe protruding i trim them all flush to the plasterboard then a vent shouldn’t stick down more than 10-12mm.

That looks the nuts, just paid £650 for something very similar. 👍

Original house will be poorly insulated and airtight, your new extension will be better but still not amazing. Your old house will require fairly high heat being pumped into the rads. New floor will need lower temps adding to it. Trying to get a general plumber to sort out that will be hard work, the builder you use will probably have his own plumber who understands rads, it’s just an easier option to mitigate against it all going a bit tits up. If if you were doing a full £200,000 Reno, all floors out, loads of insulation everywhere then it might be a bit more beneficial to go ufh everywhere, but for a little infil I don’t see the point in mixing up something that works.

Two.

By the time you messed about getting a table saw set up I would have cut it and been heading down the pub. Cut it 3mm too long and tidy the end up with a grinder.

Yes easy with a petrol cut off saw or a 9 inch grinder. If I was desperate I could do it with a 5 inch grinder and the skinny 1mm blades.

It’s got nothing to do with building control, as long as your cables are in the proper safe zones, and properly supported. If I was doing mine again I would do it like on the continent with a large duct that I can pull new cables through.

Look at the post above. See what you think and come back to me, I haven’t ordered one yet.

In a modern build in my opinion you shouldn’t have any pipes exiting through the wall, I certainly would not want to see them outside i would plan all the drainage to be under the slab with a 110 mm stub showing where you are having bathroom equipment.

Yes, completely different. You need a form from the council, fill it all in, you might need an asbestos survey and a method statement from demo company.

The next day. But have you got your consent to demolish, get that organised now as well then it will be current ready to knock down.

How heavy are these cabinets ? i would be thinking that that wall should have a sheet of ply on it before plasterboard, if so pull the plasterboard down, locate pipe, plywood and re plasterboard.

Another one here with the green coat roof.

@ruggers have a look at DEFENDOOR. Down in Newton Abbot. Tell me what you think. I haven't had a quote yet but it was all I have found that look ok.

That’s what I made it. It needs 50mm of insulated plasterboard on the inside as well in my opinion.

Exact information. Im sitting in a pub with a bunch of builders. This isn’t a house I’m building, or an extension. Builders are saying they are currently using 75mm wool type batts in a 150mm cavity with no other insulation and this is fine. Im saying it’s shite and doesn’t come up to current regs. Who's right. Beer is at stake.

Any idea what insulation is needed to achieve this.

I’m not. Im sitting in a pub having a heated discussion.

Nobody else having a go so I will stick my oar in. I would put your periscope in but make up the opening part that takes the airbrick larger than needed. If you do some sums you can work out the difference between a full brick and halfbond. So your opening letter box will be a brick and a half long, then when you put the slips on you can get the position right and cut a blank plug of eps and glue it in and put your slips over the top.

Having a discussion with a builder. Can anybody tell me what amount of insulation is needed in a cavity wall to meet current regs. I was under the impression it has changed a lot and you now need substantial cavity insulation plus insulted plasterboard. He is saying 75mm of cavity batts in a 150 cavity is good enough, I’m disagreeing. Can i I have it for a new build as well as an extension please. Sorry to be a pain, but I might have to buy him a beer if I’m wrong 🤦🏻‍♂️ Anybody point me at current levels. Cheers.

Small aluminium angle piece glue it down in front of the door if you get any grief from BC.

Depends what you want to achieve. Drafty cold building, but you don’t care as you will be weightlifting in your thong. Or nice and toasty office that your wife works in. If you want the latter then you will need to completely design the whole thing, a bit of insulation stuffed under a draughty roof won’t cut it.