Russell griffiths

I am finding a ten pound note in a ziplock bag on top of the bins gets them taken away more than I need, I’m sure the nosey neighbour wonders why I leave my bins out permanently. ??

Fit the door, fit door stops using a small packer to allow for paint thickness, 1.5mm?? That might sound a lot but think of 5 coats over time. Remove door, decorators caulk all gaps, smooth off with finger, get priming, 3) throw that book away or you will still be at it next week.

I new one of you would know. Thanks @JSHarris ??

So spotted this local to be so had to grab it, but I think the end is missing, I think it should have a metal swivel eye thing. Anybody know if you can get spares, or what would you fabricate to go on the end. @Onoff @JSHarris @PeterW

You shouldn’t have it coming straight through a foundation, needs a duct to prevent damage and different movement in materials, but it doesn’t need to be 110mm. 32mm pipe in a 50-60mm duct or 25mm pipe in some 45mm duct. No need for 110mm.

Thanks @Moira Niedzwiecka That’s how ours will be cedar facia and soffit. Looks great cheers.

Facia and soffit in cedar. 240Lm of facia 95m square soffit. That’s without the uv stain on it.

Most of it is only single storey @Mr Punter plastic is just not an option, I wish it was ive just spent £5000 on facia and soffit. My wallet has never felt so empty.

I can’t believe you cut those blocks around those bricks. Nearly spat my tea on the laptop.

Hi all looking for recommendations for a square box profile metal gutter, in a grey colour, not natural galvanise had an eye watering quote of £1200 for lindhab anybody got any ideas. Cheers russ.

Would there be some kind of regs about distance @ProDave,like you can’t have a hand in the sink and touch the consumer unit.

How about a mixture of systems, could you use the oil boiler for hot water and Ashp for ufh. Would your opinions alter on the oil boiler if you already had one. We we have a 3 year old oil boiler sitting on a pallet from the old place we knocked down, it has been on my mind to ask these questions for months.

If you need to work it all out it’s not as simple as you think. Your whole ground floor floor will need insulation under it no matter what system you choose, so you may as well put it under a slab instead of on top of your floor system. Strip foundations sound cheap, but probably no cheaper, And even if you go for a strip foundation, why a raised floor, cheaper to just have a ground bearing floor, suspended floors are not cheap. How many square metres are you talking about, and what is your budget @JSHarris built a quality home on an insulated slab on a very reasonable budget, have a read of his blog.

Ok cool, good ideas, I hadn’t thought about a dehumidifier. ??

Morning all we have two holiday let’s on our place so have a large amount of bed linen continuously getting washed and dried we have designed in a large linen cupboard all shelved out for this. What im wondering is if it could have some gently heating to it or ventilation i have thought of a very small radiator in there running off the hot water circuit anybody got any thoughts.

If you have a wife (customer) who is only 5 foot 2 you tend to get asked to set worktop height lower.

Got any pics of the steel ring beam.

you are right in thinking that all methods have a cavity, but sometimes in timberframe it isn’t so much of a cavity as just a gap, this is to allow air flow between the two skins and allow any moisture that gets between the skins to dry out.

double block cavity wall. On a strip foundation with a concrete floor on insulation

You seam to be getting mixed up between different methods. You need to look at lots of our pictures on here. A timberframe house is structural, the timber holds up the floor and the roof and contains the insulation, once the frame is up the roof can go on. On the outside of this you can have whatever you want to meet your planned design, you can put boards on it and render it, you can put blocks around it and render it. A timberframe is the structure you only need one block thick on the outside, it is just a skin to keep the weather off. A block built house is TWO skins of blocks to form a cavity, insulation in the gap,cavity. Render on the outside.

Nope, not unless you go 150mm blocks how will you hold the second storey up, you can’t go two storey in a single skin of blocks, it would just not stand up.

If @steve77r you are looking for cheap you need to follow the route of the mass house builders ordinary square shape, red tile roof, plastic facia, plastic gutter brick n block or timberframe and brick skin if forterra was a cost effective way they would all be using it.

What sort of budget do you have. That way we can tell you if it’s a complete non starter.

I bought a lot of kerto beams to use as pole plates for my roof, straight as a die, lovely to work with but double the price of standard timber. Why can you not use two sole plates of 125x47 with spreader plates with a 50mm gap with insulation in between.