Russell griffiths

The 150x10 flat would flex to much, must have some form of angle in it. Channel, angle, box,

If you are on a tight budget you can forget the wood fibre insulation, have you priced it up? are you building the frame yourself or getting a company to supply. Your more cost affective method will be a mineral wool inbetween the studs with a mineral wool slab over the studs on the inside inbetween counter battens. Why cant you get a price for the vapour shield osb, just a phone call away.

Why use that bracket by Simpson when you could cut and weld some flat bar on, the Simpson one will not match the finish of the stringers.

Do you normally keep a gas cylinder near the wood burner i couldn’t give a monkeys, just curious.

Send your drawings to a precast company they will have all the software to run the numbers not it the same but my block n beam floor came in at 5m and they just enlarged the beam size. Any reason you need to stick to 150mm.

That’s it perfect whack a shelf up with a squirty soap on it, and a tub of hand cleaner keeps the troops happy. I also have a big first first aid box, emergency eye wash, needle and a pair of tweezers oh and soft bog roll.

like that

If your not bothered about the extra width then do it properly and use an isolation stud against the existing studwork, I can’t for the life of me remember what it is called, but it works by having a gap between the two studs sound transfer is best avoided by having the two areas of whatever material not touching each other, so a void between the two walls is best. It could be called a resiliant bar. ????

I e mailed our case officer stating that the choice of materials won’t make any difference to my foundation work starting and that we would provide samples ASAP, but wished to start work, he agreed in writing so we started we are just up to wall plate height and still haven’t discharged that condition. He didn’t think it was a problem as long as we don’t fit anything without sign off.

Your ledger board should be the same depth as your joists, your hangers and joists must have full surface contact, you can’t have a 200mm ledger and a 245 joist as the bottom will hang lower and not provide support as the joist deflects.

The bloke building the house with the blue roof must be a saint, within 10minutes of watching I wanted to kill the old bird next door. My wife watched it and said exactly the same with no nudging from me.

I thought that, but as far as I’m aware it’s not made in that colour.

Anybody know the make of the blue steel roof.

Not a good advert for durisol I thought.

That’s the one up model from mine, lovely machine. Couple of things to think about can you insure it, this may sound like a silly question, but try to insure it before you buy one i did and I couldn’t insure a digger WITHOUT it being connected to another type of policy for example, tool and plant insurance needed to be connected to a public liability policy. Your house insurance won’t touch it. Its ok now as it’s covered by my site insurance second thing that is perfect size for stealing, drive in with an hiab and it will be gone in seconds, i would think with your plot a 3 tonne one around 7-10 years old would be good, far harder to steal. I wanted somthing cheaper £7500 as I probably won’t sell it after,

Work out how you are going to board it, and put them in according to your board sizes.

How about it’s weight, are the timbers up there designed for the extra load.

There is very little reinforcement needed in a domestic 2 storey icf house, mainly openings, and between pours, you will need a good structural engineer, you will probably need one who is familiar with your chosen block. Out of interest have you had a and a price for these, as I’m curious as I had a good chat with the rep the other day and would like to compare it to what I have used.

Ah ha. So it’s a cordless hand held saw if that’s the case the blade rotates upwards so that finish is hard to get a lot better, unless you change blades, my blades on my 165mm cordless are about £12-£14 so I change them every couple of months as the battery power is so much better on a new blade.

What are you using it for ?why are you bothered ? can be type of blade, speed of cut, timber type, direction of cut Quality should be decided by the job in hand, that looks like a bit cls for a stud wall, so that finish is fine.

That looks a nice spot, where abouts are you.

My house in oz was all glued with only a handful of screws per sheet. 6m long sheets hardly any butt joins. Makes our standard system look we are in the dark ages. I intend to glue all mine mine this time around with very few screws. Haven’t sorted the glue yet.

couple of things I think will make your idea fail. The product you use as the base coat, Portland cement won’t work, mix up a bag on its own and see how in workable it is, you will need a bagged render product that has additional stuff to make it useable. Your mould size, there is no way you will be able to do an area bigger than a couple of m at a time. You will need to make 3-4 stamps and alternate them to get your pattern you will need a team of 3, 1 applying 1 stamping and 1 rushing around i think the idea is feasible but I personaly would do a feature wall not the whole house, it will look overpowering.

Not your fault bud. My mother in law reckons I am always in a perpetual state of pissed off, It just depends on the amount of annoyance it causes me that changes. If it gets to a high level I put the perpetrators in my book, come the day of reckoning I will get the book out and deal with them all. ??????⚰️⚰️☠️☠️???? my wife made me edit this to include the laughing face, just in case you thought I was a stark raving lunatic.

I have also been warned to keep an eye on mgo boards.