Russell griffiths

You need to go on blue peter.

The only thing I would say is buy them all at once so you can mix up the packs as they are laid, if you buy 5 packs and lay them and then go back and buy another 5 packs, I bet you a pound to a penny you can see a difference in brick shade, colour.

You want to delete the term stretch, should be laid with a little bit of floppy ness, to allow for expansion and contraction.

The membrane needs to go on top of the sarking board, or else any wind driver rain or moisture would get onto the sarking board and soon turn it into a mess, membrane on top to protect everything from the elements. It would also also depend on your roof finish, slate tile, metal sheets.

Eye watering is what springs to mind they quoted me about £70

Does this go through the wall and outside can you not go outside and dig a hole and join it there.

The pee and poo separate in the bowl by themselves, you don’t need to do it. Bowl has a divider thing

Oh is that all, I was thinking you where making a new start with a new house using wealthy jacks money ?????

Excellent read, tell us about your user name. Im very nosey.

I just wouldn’t take the chance, question 1 how long do you intend living here ? if the answer to question 1 is more than a quick tart it up and sell it on, then I would run a new water main. That black alkathane will haunt you for years to com, my neighbours main has been repaired 6 times the first time I did it I told her to replace it, 4 years later she has spent more on repairs than a new one actually cost to put in.

Mistakes can only be rectified if spotted, if your bloke only pops in once a week a lot of stuff will get covered up or hidden a lot can happen in a week. He also needs to be hands on checking not just standing in the middle of a room with a clipboard. For example we have a large large steel beam in the centre of the house fixed down with some chemical anchors, for some reason one anchor didn’t set, but by me checking how tight they where I spotted it and changed it, if I had a lot of subbies rushing about it would have been plasterboarded over the next day and the qs would never have known. Definetly needs to be on site very regularly.

You are right a lot of newer designs really miss the old standard correct way to do something, white render straight to the floor may look good on the architects computer, but it will look rough in 5 years time. We are looking to do something similar to the pic.

Our roofing supplier are providing flashings bent to any profile @£14 per m. Are they aluminium or galv coated.

At the speed a build moves on, 1-2 hours a week will be to late to have spotted something, he will spot them but it will be in and then need rectifying. I would think a visit every other day would be more like it, an hour on site will take up 2 hours of someone’s time, I would think you would pay £30-50 an hour so couple of hundred a week, so it’s going to cost 6-10 grand. Just need to work out if if it’s worth it.

Bit of a bodge, plenty of sikaflex.

Oh ok I think I’m confusing it with the insulation you put down and push the pipes into the grooves i think you wanted it for drainage issues didn’t you.

Lake is between 5-7 foot, lake is all ours, neighbour has his own lake, i know the neighbour very well and he loves his system, but it has been in a while and he gets a large fit payment that covers energy usage, so his view maybe a bit lopsided.

Is it me or are they upside down.

@Onoff, the lake is ours, not shared the lake in the pic is a smaller one that we cleaned out a couple of years ago. My neighbours lake has 800m of pipe, he has 4 pipes that are 200m long, 100m out and 100m return to the house, all 4 pipes return to a big manifold in a box in the lawn, then there are two larger pipes that enter the house. His pipe is 32mm. Onoff has has a good memory, when we dug out for the house we found 2 existing footings in the ground that we think may have been from a conveyor belt or something.

Easy peasey

Buy a digger.

Couple of things, my neighbours pipe work floated so he weighed it down with half an engineering brick every couple of m just cabletied on. Second funny and not connected bit, we have a small man made island in the lake that was built out of breeze blocks on top of 3 huge tractor tyre inner tube, the concrete blocks where all bonded together with expanded metal and once dry the tractor tubes inflated, it was then floated out to a shallow spot where the previous owner and 2 mates swam out with pen knives in their mouths like a royal marine commandos, on the count of 3 they all stabbed the tubes and down it went, still in position 30 years later.

So as normal the complexity of building this house is doing my nut in, piling no problem, foundations no problem, building the whole bloody house no problem, BUT how the hell do I heat it and produce hot water. My situation may be different to many people as we live on the banks of a lake (see pic ) so everything screams GSHP, or does it the quotes we are getting are stupid, not eye watering, just stupid so anybody got any thoughts, both quotes we have got look like they are based on the rhi payment not what the equipment is going to cost. So has anybody done this, can anybody shed any light on the rhi scheme. Im due to call the welsh wizard @Nickfromwales but have got tied up sorting out roofing quotes, I wish I could just get on and build the bloody thing. Any thoughts appreciated before I put the oil boiler back in.

Oh ok, you confused me with the word render, so what you really have is timber cladding, the render is actually just a parge coat i thought you where going to render over a board, I had visions of it cracking like a mo fo.

So what is the boarding for ? i thought you where going to cut bits of durisol and key it all in. Are you saying you are going to make an outer skin of some sort of board with insulation on the inside.