Russell griffiths

That’s how I did mine, vey straight forward.

I would think the wooden kits will have very poor structure to the walls so adding insulation will be a pain, gat a proper frame built and insulate it to a good spec. As a side thought, can you insure a wooden outbuilding for contents insurance, I know my insurance company insists that it is brick built if covering tools.

How about overboarding with a marine grade plywood. 11mm ?? This could benefit you if it is carried through to any bathrooms, as it could be used as a carrier board for floor tiling or other surfaces. This could be something that you may have had to do, so could get it done at no cost to you and some cash back as a compensation.

Any chance of some details for the company who did the flashings. Thanks.

Do a slump test. Oh yea what for?? please explain how you think that is going to work in your favour. It wont. Lets look at it. Your concrete plant is 35minutes drive away your pump turns up at £600 for the day you need 22m of concrete to do your first lift first truck turns up and you do a slump test and all is good, so you pour in 7.5m, truck buggers off back to depot second truck turns up 45mins later you do a slump test, oh dear it’s a bit wetter than it said in my spec, I know I will phone up and moan and send it back. So of goes the driver with his slightly too wet concrete, leaving you on the phone having a rant at the man in the batching plant (who couldn’t give a shit by the way) the batching plant will tell you that they don’t have a spare truck available so you will need to wait for the mix to be tipped out and re mixed. The truck returns. This has taken the best part of a couple of hours, so it’s now 12.45 and you have got to get in 2 more truck loads, what I am getting at is if you set out your expectations so high something will fail leaving you in the poo. Learn to deal with what comes your way, brace the crap out of everything, then you can deal with with however the concrete is. Ask for it to come drier than your spec and adjust it on site. I have just put 39m of concrete in a nudura build, just 2 lifts up to 5.3m high. Didnt lose more than a bucket full.

Gabion baskets on the lower level and another row on the upper level.

If they are having to put up with construction noise in the week, wouldn’t it be nice to give them a break at the weekend. It depends what tool you are using and when, nail gun at 7pm, nope your not being a nice neighbour. Doing some painting at 9pm what’s the problem i think you need to evaluate each job and work out if you would like it, I personaly would have the hump with you.

Chop back the reveal plaster, if old window is a bit loose whack some angle brackets on them screwed into reveal, remove these when new windows turn up.

That last place was probably the most poorly finished, load of crap I have seen in a long time. I hope he never has to change that thermal store once the house is finished.

You will need a full site fence as part of your public liability insurance, make it a good one.

You won’t want to double handle them, get them unloaded on to your slab, who would want to steal them ???

Imho, mid build fire risk in a brick n block home would be so minimal I wouldn’t give it a second thought. However flood risk is far higher up there, every evening check everything is dry and how it should be. On my last place a plumbing apprentice decided to leave a leak in a newly fitted kitchen cupboard, whilst rushing to get to the pub on a Friday, I called in an hour later to check they had locked up properly to find a damp patch on the floor. They where given the heave ho on Monday morning. A far higher risk I believe.

Somebody on here has just started the exact same thing, they discounted durisol and went with nudura as it was easier to build in the stanchions. Cant remember who sorry.

KASPLOSH. sorry that was no help but it made me chuckle.

Insulation on the cold pipe before you cross over it.

I think the problem you have is the specification you asked for a power floated floor, you have one. Did you ask for it to have a shiny surface like the ones you see in b+q ? did you specify the tolerance? the main problem is contractors are not used to supplying something not normal what you have is perfectly acceptable to 90% of customers, but as self builders we are looking for something better if you had been in America or Australia that floor is far below standard but in England for a garage floor it is probably better than 90% of what is normally carried out.

What time in the day was it finished.

That’s shit, but I have the opposite opinion of Jeremy, its been hit with the power float whilst a bit tacky which is fine, but it should have been done again with the blades angled flatter to shine it right up.

TBH I was very impressed with both the people building last night, I don’t have many good thoughts regarding the younger generation and think the majority of 20-30 year olds are a bunch of wasters, however I was pleasantly surprised by the chubby lad and his misses. Well done to both builders, ( I was going to say couples, but she gave him the elbow) hope he finds a better model and the old one is jealous as hell.

@scottishjohn any idea of the treatment type, I looked at their website and there was a multitude of different products, and where did you buy it, cheers russ.

Fit a stop bead and fit it 3-4 mm away from the soffit, leaves a nice neat line.

Yep been looking all year, must have a dozen samples im afraid none of it fits the bill, if it’s man made it looks man made, nothing compares to the shade variation of natural timber.

I can’t fault Cotswold district council, e mail the day before and he’s on site the next day i don’t know why anybody would go with a private company, unless it’s linked to your warranty. £700 all in plans approval and inspections. At the end of the day if it all falls down you will be on your own. I don’t believe warranties are worth the paper there written on.

Oh if that’s the case 10mm drill and a couple of hours work to keep the retard happy.

Pictures, pictures.