Russell griffiths

If he wants a weep hole, he should say it needs a cavity tray above them to deflect any falling moisture to the outer face. In theory he’s sort of right, but in reality it’s never going to get any water coming out of them. You might as well say every single wall tie needs a weep hole above it in case moisture drops on the tie and doesn’t drip of.

@Vijay how about that lot, for sale in Bedford

I think we might have covered this before, but is there a reason you need to scaffold all the way around i just brought as much as I wanted to pay for really £4000, we do spend a lot of time moving it about, but paying out £12000 would be a bit painful i suppose you can sell it as it comes down so you can do your internal fit out. I think i have just convinced myself to buy some more.

Pay for him to go private it could be the best grand you’ve spent.

M4 junction 15, you can play with mine anytime.

Can you go somewhere and have a mess with it,

I think Pinterest is the place to look.

The 150x10 flat would flex to much, must have some form of angle in it. Channel, angle, box,

If you are on a tight budget you can forget the wood fibre insulation, have you priced it up? are you building the frame yourself or getting a company to supply. Your more cost affective method will be a mineral wool inbetween the studs with a mineral wool slab over the studs on the inside inbetween counter battens. Why cant you get a price for the vapour shield osb, just a phone call away.

Why use that bracket by Simpson when you could cut and weld some flat bar on, the Simpson one will not match the finish of the stringers.

Do you normally keep a gas cylinder near the wood burner i couldn’t give a monkeys, just curious.

Send your drawings to a precast company they will have all the software to run the numbers not it the same but my block n beam floor came in at 5m and they just enlarged the beam size. Any reason you need to stick to 150mm.

That’s it perfect whack a shelf up with a squirty soap on it, and a tub of hand cleaner keeps the troops happy. I also have a big first first aid box, emergency eye wash, needle and a pair of tweezers oh and soft bog roll.

like that

If your not bothered about the extra width then do it properly and use an isolation stud against the existing studwork, I can’t for the life of me remember what it is called, but it works by having a gap between the two studs sound transfer is best avoided by having the two areas of whatever material not touching each other, so a void between the two walls is best. It could be called a resiliant bar. ????

I e mailed our case officer stating that the choice of materials won’t make any difference to my foundation work starting and that we would provide samples ASAP, but wished to start work, he agreed in writing so we started we are just up to wall plate height and still haven’t discharged that condition. He didn’t think it was a problem as long as we don’t fit anything without sign off.

Your ledger board should be the same depth as your joists, your hangers and joists must have full surface contact, you can’t have a 200mm ledger and a 245 joist as the bottom will hang lower and not provide support as the joist deflects.

The bloke building the house with the blue roof must be a saint, within 10minutes of watching I wanted to kill the old bird next door. My wife watched it and said exactly the same with no nudging from me.

I thought that, but as far as I’m aware it’s not made in that colour.

Anybody know the make of the blue steel roof.

Not a good advert for durisol I thought.

That’s the one up model from mine, lovely machine. Couple of things to think about can you insure it, this may sound like a silly question, but try to insure it before you buy one i did and I couldn’t insure a digger WITHOUT it being connected to another type of policy for example, tool and plant insurance needed to be connected to a public liability policy. Your house insurance won’t touch it. Its ok now as it’s covered by my site insurance second thing that is perfect size for stealing, drive in with an hiab and it will be gone in seconds, i would think with your plot a 3 tonne one around 7-10 years old would be good, far harder to steal. I wanted somthing cheaper £7500 as I probably won’t sell it after,

Work out how you are going to board it, and put them in according to your board sizes.

How about it’s weight, are the timbers up there designed for the extra load.

There is very little reinforcement needed in a domestic 2 storey icf house, mainly openings, and between pours, you will need a good structural engineer, you will probably need one who is familiar with your chosen block. Out of interest have you had a and a price for these, as I’m curious as I had a good chat with the rep the other day and would like to compare it to what I have used.