Russell griffiths

Phone up Redlands and ask why you should use their product instead of the Marley one. I have done this with a number of companies, I like to be frank and I like frank to the point answers.

I personally think that 80mm is very over the top, but that’s for you to decide. 145kg is the weight of two men sitting on top of those brackets plus all other timber. Your original brackets where going to be 40x40 i think i would go with 50x50 box 3-4 mm wall thickness 8mm plates to wall with 13mm holes to except 12mm studs chemical fixed avoiding brick joints your latest drawing looks good, I would notch those side verticals a bit deeper to carry more load on the brackets. Treated timber c16 not that crappy csl

Two things, don’t like those gallows brackets, I would look at the angle iron version available from most builders merchants. I would look at the brickwork and find how stable it is to take fixings that bit under the bay window looks a bit suspect, according to this it may pay to get a couple of brackets fabbed up so you can get fixings lower down to pick up better brickwork. I have just just had a couple of posts fabbed by a local steel company and they where cheaper than expected.

I suppose the big question is do you have planning in place ? what do you think will get passed and what won’t.

Have you thought about capital gains tax.

Our last house was shaped like a Z so lots of angles but it cannot be random they where specific parts of a 90degree corner, so two 45 opposite each other and a couple of 22.5. You will have real dramas with internal corner beads and external corner beads if you just pick some weird angle. It worked very very well in a long hall with an off set door at the end, took a fair bit of sorting out on paper first. Cost, allow a lot of extra dosh for that roof.

please.

So what, who needs a 12 bed mansion very hard to re sell, build what you want,

Why not keep it on site, do one house but half stone half render around an icf shell then sell off a couple of self build plots and supply the stone to do their bottom half. That house looks huge, surely you will have more than you need.

Why not just sell it on as is to a stone dealer, less money but no agro a bird in the hand and all that you will have enough to do, get them to demolish and remove from site.

Can you tell me what swung your decision to Isotex, and what other products you looked at. Cheers russ.

Er, yes.

I wouldn’t think so surely the survey was for demolition purposes, not what you intend to build, I would keep quite and get your new plans in remember you dont want any new bats so keep the place spotless and fill in any holes, alternatively get it knocked down quick if you are happy you have planning in place.

Ow ya goen.

Trying to find if anybody local ish, has any spare blocks im in Cirencester Gloucestershire and looking for 4 blocks if anybody has them. Bit of a long shot cheers russ.

Glue and fix first layer using 150mm fixings, countersunk into eps by 50mm glue second layer and fix using 220mm fixings countersink accordingly. Is that a pattern on the concrete or mesh, I thought it was mesh but it could be the fuzzy pic and my poor eyes.

Self powered or hydraulic from a tractor.

I like the idea of two layers of 150mm eps all glued and screwed on. Then render underneath. On a different topic, are you happy with that reinforcement showing through the concrete.

They wouldn’t have ya.

I think you need to think about your circumstances and see if it’s appropriate for you, if you live in spa built up area I can see your alarm being ignored. I have first hand hand knowledge of a system working for me. In our old place we had an alarm that sent me a text, it also made a noise at the house, one day I got a text to say it had been activated, I phoned my neighbour straight away to ask him to go and look, when he answered his phone he was already standing in my front room, false alarm my wife had left the patio door open and the dog had walked in from the garden. So if you have good neighbours who keep an eye out then I think an alarm can work. so I think it is down to personal circumstances our new house I’m working on is 200m away from the old one so I will be able to hear it very clearly.

Hi, I found out this morning that a neighbour had been burgled, so I’m looking to up my security a bit. This is for the little shack we live in now, not the new house. Im looking for something easy to diy, without needing a phd in electronics. I would like a system that can ring a mobile phone if possible as well as making a lot of noise. I would like it to be as wireless as possible, I had a wireless system before that I thought was very good. It would need 1 door sensor and a couple of room movement sensors. Not looking for cheap, thanks russ.

How are you going to fix your battens for the cladding through 150mm of pir, that will be a proper pain and costly.

We lived in oxenford from 2006- 2012

Not another one coming back from oz we must need our heads looking at. Hi from Cirencester, formally the Gold Coast

I think you need to go back to the drawing board i will happily be corrected but I always thought that you are supposed to go most breathable on the outside and least breathable on the inside. If this is is the case your pir should be on the inside of your frame. Have you looked at frame companies to see what they think is best, most of the frames I have seen, have been full fill between studs with pir on the inside.