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About Benjseb

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  1. Our HP (Misubishi) doesn’t need a buffer tank but we went with one anyway as we wanted to be able to a) heat with an immersion if the HP had issues and b) divert some solar to it if the DHW tank was already warm as Joe said ours works the same, stays at 40c then can supply water instantly when zones open. I think our HP would do that anyway without a larger buffer tho so it may slightly increase running costs due to the buffer tank losses.
  2. Following on from this and my post about actuators yesterday I’m feeling that running our UFH as one big zone may be better too its only 2 zones which are adjacent rooms. One is a kitchen so perhaps I’ll dial down the flow rate a little as it gets heated by cooking that then eliminates the actuators delays without any cost and keeps the whole thing simple
  3. Yes all clear at £200 to replace the actuators though I am wondering if it’s worth the expense. Our loops are all about the same length so not sure if we will get that much benefit
  4. Thanks @JSHarristhats clearer now i will give this a go with 2 of our 4 actuators and see how they compare it certainly appeals that they do t take 10 mins to react, and the balancing is a bonus on top.
  5. Yes I’m unclear. surely the only part of the system that can blend down the temp is the mixing valve as it has both flow and return inputs. the actuators are simply flow rate of the return feed. Sealed loop so can only co tell flow, not temp? i guess it controls delta T by adjusting the flow rate
  6. Am I right I’m thinking it’ll just allow the HP flow temp through tho - say 40c - even at a slower rate perhaps, so if we’re not mixing it down it won’t be as efficient?
  7. Thanks @JSHarris did you notice much advantage after doing this? i have noticed that the pump fires up a few minutes before the actuators open which isn’t great so that may help. Does the auto balancing help? Ben
  8. I think ours says the same. So not really suitable for heat pumps then!
  9. This is interesting! As our current actuators are controlled by the stats what happens if the demand for heat is satisfied, how do you close the zone off? Do they work if it’s not a thick slab? Ours is A retrofit system under tiles. The current actuators are very slow though but currently each zone only comes on for a few mins per hour as it much heat is needed
  10. I have an ASHP which runs UFH and rads the flow temp from the heat pump is usually 38-45c Wr can run the UFH at a lower temp than this. However, the valve seems a bit... shit. if I set to 35c I only get flow temp of 25. If I set to 45, it gets to about 30-35. However that 10c difference changes depending upon the heat pump flow temp. The instructions for the valve state that for it to work correctly the incoming hot flow needs to be approx 15c higher than the desired temp. is that normal? Or have a just got a cheap mixing valve? ideally I’d like the UFH to stay at about 35 as it’s only really the rads that need a higher temp when it’s cold.
  11. Yep they are upsized. It still take a lot longer to warm up though than the UFH which is probably 4x bigger than needed so just a case of one working more effectively than the other really. They should all still kick out the heat needed.
  12. First coldish day today as the outside temp dipped to 3c this morning and about 5c this eve Everything is toasty at 19c. we can really tell the difference between the lounge which has radiators and the other rooms with UFH. They don’t seem to call for much heat at all as the tiles just gently give off some heat after turning off. The lounge takes a lot longer to warm up. Might have to do some extra draughproofing and add some thick curtains so we can keep the flow temp low But it’s still within design specs It’s currently running at 42c this eve which I’m happy for as we specced it to run at 50c at -2.5c so about right.
  13. Quick question... Is it usual on these systems to have the heat pump keeping the flow temp to our set temperature, 24/7, even when all the heating zones aren't calling for heat? Seems the room stats link to the zone valve/pump for that zone, but don't interface with the Ecodan in any way. So if our rooms are all at 20c, with the stats set to 18c, even if no heat is called for all day, the ecodan is still spinning up to keep the flow temp to 40c for instance. Understandably this water shouldn't change much with no heating load, but seems a waste to be continually circulating the water from the heat pump to the buffer tank when no demand?
  14. And we're done, all installed and working We've not had an oil boiler since May so glad it's in! use in time too by the looks of the news with the Saudi oil strikes. Great that we're fully pumped now and not on the horrible gravity fed system we had - so many air blockages previously! Now to try out the underfloor heating!
  15. Yes it’s primarily due to it being a courtyard with walls all around and neighbours bedroom nearby so didn’t want the sound bouncing off the walls at night. I know they are quite quiet now but when amplified and reflected we didn’t want to risk annoying people! it would also have needed a run of pipe probably 4-5m anyway compared to 8-9 now.