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About Benjseb

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  1. We have a Panasonic ASHP at work and one interesting read out on the control panel is Compressor Frequency. It gives a nice indication of how hard the HP is working. Does anyone know if this is possible to see on the Ecodan? Any see any reference to it on menus or in manual? Also, by reducing our flow temp we’re found a point where the HP runs pretty much 24/7. This seems the most economic but are there any disadvantages in it running non stop? Wear and tear etc? Our operation mode graph shows it only stopped 7% of the time. Ben
  2. @Home Farm Someyhing that may interest you... Did you say you set back temps overnight? I’ve been experimenting with ours. We had a 1.5c setback overnight in all rooms. Last few days I’ve removed this (so now all rooms are either 18.5 or 19.5 all day) since doing this I’ve managed to reduce the flow temp 3c from the norm (so yesterday ran at 39c). This is because the lower flow temp is fine to maintain the room temp but can’t boost it up to recover after the set back I’ll do this for a few more days To allow for weather fluctuations but initially it seems we’ve saved about 10kWh per day using the lower temp and higher overnight room temps.
  3. we had TRV on one end then closed off the other. Started at 1/8 turn (some still like that) but turned to 1/4 turn if not warm enough yours may need different depending upon how they are piped. It does show how much difference UFH makes. So thankful we decided to lay that when changing the floor, despite going with an expensive retro fit solution due to ceiling height. I’d say if we put UFH in the lounge, we could run the flow temp at 35-40 all year round as the rads in the bedrooms are set to 18c for optimal sleep health.
  4. Also, on hot water we’ve played around with timing it vs leaving on When timing it didn’t work very well with extra baths. Because it wasn’t timed to go on again until later the 3rd bath was cold We switched to continuous which fixed this but used more energy. I then set the delta lower, so it waits for an 8c drop in tank temp before triggering. As such it will trigger if someone has a bath or shower. It not if just washing hands or doing the dishes. we’ve actually got out temp set to 46c now and it seems piping hot. The sensor is 1/3 up the tank so obviously the water were getting is hotter than 46 initially. overall that’s now cost effective and we always get warm baths.
  5. @Home Farm interesting update your house is configured very similarly to ours. Ours is also long and thin but our main aspects are North/South so every room has a North and a South wall. Our two rooms I discussed had a similar issue. We have big tads in there but they weren’t particularly warm We know from having the walls replasterrd that the pipes drop down in 10/15mm which means they don’t support the flow rate necessary to provide the maximum heat output for the radiator at the lower temps. I wish we’d have replaced them then but it was pre ASHP To work around this we closed off a lot of other radiators lock valves to just 1/4 turn. They continued to work the same as before. Then we closed the towel rads right down. Similar yours they were piping hot with no TRV. They are also piped in 15mm so hogging the heat this helped a lot. However when the temp was <3c we did have to put the flow temp up to 50c for a couple of days. It might be worth you moving to weather compensation mode and set it between 40c and 50c ultinatwly if there’s no enough heat output you need to either increase size of rad (no use if they aren’t fully hot), increase flow rate or increase temp.
  6. I’ve been monitoring our New Mitsubishi ASHP over this last cold spell in November we’ve averaged about 55kWh/day Usage and it’s been fairly cold, 0-5c mainly. Highest usage was 1st dec when the temp was -2 most of the day, with a max of 3c. 100kWh usage with 230kWh heat output. Windy too That day we ran at 50c but usually we’re around 45c We’ve added a load of insulation on our vaulted.ceilings this year. The two rooms without take a lot longer to get up to temp so we’re going to have to just bite the bullet and pull down the freshly plastered ceiling to add some insulation there too.
  7. Same tapping from buffer, but separate pumps. Rads have a dedicated pump then there’s a pump in the UFH manifold. That pulls 7 l/m theoretically but UFH is just two rooms and mixed down to 30 so it doesn’t pull a great deal from the buffer. Unfortunately there’s no spare tappings on the buffer to separate this out.
  8. We do have a big old barn door which has been converted to double glazed window/door but currently no curtains so there’s scope to reduce heat loss there Also we have a triple window with a stone million surround. Windows within are fine, 2g, but thermal bridge on the surround is awful so will be getting a quote to replace that. so a couple of ways to reduce heat requirement, which may be the workaround!
  9. It’s from a 100l buffer which feeds the rads and the UFH Were running at 40-45c currently, so there is some scope to up the flow temp, but as it’s only one room that’s slow to heat up I wanted to try and fix that first.
  10. cheers all Its 2 new rads, with new valves and the pump is new. After a bit of investigation I can see the flow/return are 22mm but then reduce down to 15mm which feeds 3 rads (2 are large, 1500x600xdbl) I’m guessing there’s just not enough flow from this part. Obviously wasn’t too much of an issue when it was an oil boiler Unfortunately we had a new engineered floor put down in the room which has the pipe work, and a newly skimmed ceiling below too... before we decided to go with ASHP, so not sure anything will be possible to change here.
  11. Hi Can anyone confirm if it’s usual for large radiators that’s are running at lower flow temps (40c) to be cold at the very bottom? Ive read this could be due to the flow rate rather than sludge (which I don’t think we have as these are new rads) but didn’t know if it could just be the natural drop of temp (or 40c - 5c = 35c which may feel “cold”) Unfortunateoy some of our rads have the last 50cm or so piped in 8mm (from 15mm for most of the run) so that could be a contributor but it is only small sections to single rads. If flow rate is an issue is there any way of measuring the flow to see if the pump is adequate (we have approx 20 double rads running off a 40-70/130 pump on full speed).
  12. Yeah I think they all need doing The report basically said “They’re goosed” gives me a good opportunity to install some aco drains around the perimeter of the property tho
  13. Thanks guys. I’m going to give a few moley people a shout
  14. The ground levels are a bit strange. Level on the courtyard side of the utility but the ground drops about 6ft the other side where the pipes exit. the actual pipes come out under the DPC (which is 5ft up) but Just above ground level
  15. the neighbours house is attached to our study unfortunately. So the only “free” place is on the far right of that diagram which is uphill or possibly at the top of that diagram which goes to next doors courtyard but not sure how happy they will be with our drains redirected through their property