Russell griffiths

Morning @Rob Johnson what Nudura blocks did you use, standard or ones with extra insulation im currently doing a nudura build.

Forgot to say thanks for all the suggestions. ??

So spent a couple of hours on a dewalt site asking questions. It turns out that dewalt have made a type 3 gun, this is supposed to be the best one they have made still not as powerful as the hikoki but some of the lads said they are putting 10,000 nails a week through them which is a huge amount, so that’s a proper test. its A shame they have to make 3 versions before it’s any good. Something else to consider for anybody doing site work is that some some sites are banning gas powered tools.

Why not simplify your build, why use velox which is square and blocky, use a product more suited to radius builds so it looks simpler to the builder. If it looks odd they will add on nuisance factor.

You can screw them but MUST use the screws supplied by the joist hanger manufacturer, you cannot use your normal wood screw.

I wonder if they have changed anything, it was a year ago I looked and evybody on the dewalt Facebook page was giving them really bad reviews. Im going to have another look as a bare unit for dewalt is reasonable money and I have all the batteries.

That’s the one with the good reviews. But looking at the price of that dewalt, I think I need to have another read up as it’s been a year since I replaced mine. ?

This is the one I got when I didn’t want to spend out on a new paslode, I’m not sure I’m overly impressed.

Don’t do it, the dewalt first fix has some of the worst feed back going, stick with the new hikoki.

The one I have seen the good write ups on and videos is the non gas version, battery only

@jntabbycat you need to look at separating your timber sole plate from the cold brick, this is the area that causes problems, you can look at a product called Marmox, it is a structural insulation, you also need to look at your section drawing and design how your cladding will fit to the outer timberframe. I think you will find you will need an outer plywood, osb, layer then a breather membrane then a counter batten then cladding. By working this out you can determine where your frame sits in relation to the courses below, you may find to come in line with building regs you need minimum 140mm frame then osb then batten then cladding so you wall ends up being closer to 210 thick. Draw this up with marmox blocks underneath and you will end up with a far better building than just a glorified shed.

Nope that would look proper shite the velux ones are not that unattractive in the flesh.

We have an i joist roof, they are not the prettiest of things.

You may find that you need to treat exposed timber to stop spread of flame not make it fire proof, we are single storey and this is what bc have asked for.

If that Nicholson’s stuff is a bit pricey, even though it looks very good, you could probably get a support tray folded and add an insect mesh, then lay your lead over it.

No, like chalk and cheese.

Not sure I see that as a plus, mine is 150mm core and I look at it sometimes and wish it was thicker.

You will need a hidden gutter detail at that junction, or soakers it depends if I’m looking at what I think I am as it’s a poor picture to be honest.

First version, second is hard to drill through and inject the resin, with the tabs on the sides you can see what your doing.

Phone up Redlands and ask why you should use their product instead of the Marley one. I have done this with a number of companies, I like to be frank and I like frank to the point answers.

I personally think that 80mm is very over the top, but that’s for you to decide. 145kg is the weight of two men sitting on top of those brackets plus all other timber. Your original brackets where going to be 40x40 i think i would go with 50x50 box 3-4 mm wall thickness 8mm plates to wall with 13mm holes to except 12mm studs chemical fixed avoiding brick joints your latest drawing looks good, I would notch those side verticals a bit deeper to carry more load on the brackets. Treated timber c16 not that crappy csl

Two things, don’t like those gallows brackets, I would look at the angle iron version available from most builders merchants. I would look at the brickwork and find how stable it is to take fixings that bit under the bay window looks a bit suspect, according to this it may pay to get a couple of brackets fabbed up so you can get fixings lower down to pick up better brickwork. I have just just had a couple of posts fabbed by a local steel company and they where cheaper than expected.

I suppose the big question is do you have planning in place ? what do you think will get passed and what won’t.

Have you thought about capital gains tax.

Our last house was shaped like a Z so lots of angles but it cannot be random they where specific parts of a 90degree corner, so two 45 opposite each other and a couple of 22.5. You will have real dramas with internal corner beads and external corner beads if you just pick some weird angle. It worked very very well in a long hall with an off set door at the end, took a fair bit of sorting out on paper first. Cost, allow a lot of extra dosh for that roof.