Russell griffiths

I installed a couple of vents like this in our old house last year, as we where suffering from serious condensation in the bedrooms. Breathing out at night, it worked really well last winter and the condensation halved over night, this year it is back with a vengeance, I think the mesh behind the vent may be blocked. They have worked really well, unless your friend is suffering from a bad draft I would leave them alone.

Why don’t you check with manufacturer, that does seem a lot. Every hole, that’s what they designed them for, that’s how they will be load tested. Are you using a jiffy hanger, the bendy ones, if so nail the full height of the joist and bend the top over and chop off with snips.

Have you collected the shed? if not I would collect it so you know what the base configuration looks like, lay the base on and make your decision based on that. The last thing you want to do is fit something and have to alter it.

No, second fix dewalt looks good not a lot of bad press.

The new house is having laminated glass on all windows.

No, why? thats what there designed for.

Morning @Rob Johnson what Nudura blocks did you use, standard or ones with extra insulation im currently doing a nudura build.

Forgot to say thanks for all the suggestions. ??

So spent a couple of hours on a dewalt site asking questions. It turns out that dewalt have made a type 3 gun, this is supposed to be the best one they have made still not as powerful as the hikoki but some of the lads said they are putting 10,000 nails a week through them which is a huge amount, so that’s a proper test. its A shame they have to make 3 versions before it’s any good. Something else to consider for anybody doing site work is that some some sites are banning gas powered tools.

Why not simplify your build, why use velox which is square and blocky, use a product more suited to radius builds so it looks simpler to the builder. If it looks odd they will add on nuisance factor.

You can screw them but MUST use the screws supplied by the joist hanger manufacturer, you cannot use your normal wood screw.

I wonder if they have changed anything, it was a year ago I looked and evybody on the dewalt Facebook page was giving them really bad reviews. Im going to have another look as a bare unit for dewalt is reasonable money and I have all the batteries.

That’s the one with the good reviews. But looking at the price of that dewalt, I think I need to have another read up as it’s been a year since I replaced mine. ?

This is the one I got when I didn’t want to spend out on a new paslode, I’m not sure I’m overly impressed.

Don’t do it, the dewalt first fix has some of the worst feed back going, stick with the new hikoki.

The one I have seen the good write ups on and videos is the non gas version, battery only

@jntabbycat you need to look at separating your timber sole plate from the cold brick, this is the area that causes problems, you can look at a product called Marmox, it is a structural insulation, you also need to look at your section drawing and design how your cladding will fit to the outer timberframe. I think you will find you will need an outer plywood, osb, layer then a breather membrane then a counter batten then cladding. By working this out you can determine where your frame sits in relation to the courses below, you may find to come in line with building regs you need minimum 140mm frame then osb then batten then cladding so you wall ends up being closer to 210 thick. Draw this up with marmox blocks underneath and you will end up with a far better building than just a glorified shed.

Nope that would look proper shite the velux ones are not that unattractive in the flesh.

We have an i joist roof, they are not the prettiest of things.

You may find that you need to treat exposed timber to stop spread of flame not make it fire proof, we are single storey and this is what bc have asked for.

If that Nicholson’s stuff is a bit pricey, even though it looks very good, you could probably get a support tray folded and add an insect mesh, then lay your lead over it.

No, like chalk and cheese.

Not sure I see that as a plus, mine is 150mm core and I look at it sometimes and wish it was thicker.

You will need a hidden gutter detail at that junction, or soakers it depends if I’m looking at what I think I am as it’s a poor picture to be honest.

First version, second is hard to drill through and inject the resin, with the tabs on the sides you can see what your doing.